High LTFT low MAF volume
11-10-2018, 12:37 PM
#26
Smoking turbo yay
I know that area is prone to leak, but usually you can smell it in the cabin if it's leaking.
Also, the whole VTEC thing sounds unusual. This isn't an S2k. RX-8 should rev very smoothly to the redline. You shouldn't feel VFAD, SSV, VDI, etc. kick in.
Maybe one of your solenoids and valves is being a little slow? Just a thought.
Also, the whole VTEC thing sounds unusual. This isn't an S2k. RX-8 should rev very smoothly to the redline. You shouldn't feel VFAD, SSV, VDI, etc. kick in.
Maybe one of your solenoids and valves is being a little slow? Just a thought.
11-11-2018, 03:38 AM
#27
anyhow of course as soon as I say my car is fixed something actually breaks... started car up just now (30F outside) engine light came on for p2070, that's the ssv valve if I'm not mistaken, I guess I'll see if it goes away or not...
I know that area is prone to leak, but usually you can smell it in the cabin if it's leaking.
Also, the whole VTEC thing sounds unusual. This isn't an S2k. RX-8 should rev very smoothly to the redline. You shouldn't feel VFAD, SSV, VDI, etc. kick in.
Maybe one of your solenoids and valves is being a little slow? Just a thought.
Also, the whole VTEC thing sounds unusual. This isn't an S2k. RX-8 should rev very smoothly to the redline. You shouldn't feel VFAD, SSV, VDI, etc. kick in.
Maybe one of your solenoids and valves is being a little slow? Just a thought.
EDIT: car ticks quickly and rhythmically, for a while then it stops and repeats , after clearing code I also got a p0111 pending along with the 2070 grrr car you cant break down now!!!
https://youtu.be/9l0L4EmeD8I link to tick, codes did not stick around after restarting car hot
Last edited by micvite; 11-11-2018 at 03:58 AM.
11-11-2018, 04:50 PM
#28
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I had that same extra surge of power thing between 6-7k and it went away after testing and replacing a bad intake solenoid that didn't hold vacuum. My hunch was that the solenoid leaking vacuum kept the vacuum actuator on the VDI or SSV partially open before it was needed.
Edit: that ticking noise is might be the VDI or SSV actuator (I forget which). The push rod between the actuator and the valve itself gets a little worn and it makes a ticking noise. Mine has been doing it for 20k miles.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...ticking-213634
Also, you're missing a breather hose on your accordion tube. That might be the (or at least a partial) source of your MAF/LTFT issue.
Edit: that ticking noise is might be the VDI or SSV actuator (I forget which). The push rod between the actuator and the valve itself gets a little worn and it makes a ticking noise. Mine has been doing it for 20k miles.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...ticking-213634
Also, you're missing a breather hose on your accordion tube. That might be the (or at least a partial) source of your MAF/LTFT issue.
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 11-11-2018 at 05:03 PM.
11-11-2018, 05:57 PM
#29
I had that same extra surge of power thing between 6-7k and it went away after testing and replacing a bad intake solenoid that didn't hold vacuum. My hunch was that the solenoid leaking vacuum kept the vacuum actuator on the VDI or SSV partially open before it was needed.
Edit: that ticking noise is might be the VDI or SSV actuator (I forget which). The push rod between the actuator and the valve itself gets a little worn and it makes a ticking noise. Mine has been doing it for 20k miles.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...ticking-213634
Also, you're missing a breather hose on your accordion tube. That might be the (or at least a partial) source of your MAF/LTFT issue.
Edit: that ticking noise is might be the VDI or SSV actuator (I forget which). The push rod between the actuator and the valve itself gets a little worn and it makes a ticking noise. Mine has been doing it for 20k miles.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...ticking-213634
Also, you're missing a breather hose on your accordion tube. That might be the (or at least a partial) source of your MAF/LTFT issue.
so all my problems are the vdi or ssv? Probably all of them considering the acv light came on and the ssv and now ticking means VDI lol. Car has 70k on it, engine barely 10k
11-14-2018, 10:37 AM
#31
So.... no problems other than the CEL at startup (only happens at my workplace where the car is parked at a downwards angle (front lower than rear)) but I've noticed that the car won't go over 118-119 WOT in 6th gear which is 6k rpm (haven't had the chance to test if in 5th it will go higher) but from my understanding the top speed should be around 155 so it should have no problem going over 120 ish, now is that due to lack of power? what are the chances mazda put a bad reman in the car and I can get them to replace that if it turns out to be the issue?
11-14-2018, 12:54 PM
#32
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Top speed is more like mid-140's for a healthy engine.
You should have 2 breather hoses connected to your accordion tube.
I can't think of a reason other than reduced power for your reduced top speed. Unless you have some ridiculous aero.
Do you still have a high LTFT and low MAF? If so, you still have a vacuum leak.
Refresh my memory, what pcode are you getting?
You should have 2 breather hoses connected to your accordion tube.
I can't think of a reason other than reduced power for your reduced top speed. Unless you have some ridiculous aero.
Do you still have a high LTFT and low MAF? If so, you still have a vacuum leak.
Refresh my memory, what pcode are you getting?
11-15-2018, 01:14 AM
#34
Top speed is more like mid-140's for a healthy engine.
You should have 2 breather hoses connected to your accordion tube.
I can't think of a reason other than reduced power for your reduced top speed. Unless you have some ridiculous aero.
Do you still have a high LTFT and low MAF? If so, you still have a vacuum leak.
Refresh my memory, what pcode are you getting?
You should have 2 breather hoses connected to your accordion tube.
I can't think of a reason other than reduced power for your reduced top speed. Unless you have some ridiculous aero.
Do you still have a high LTFT and low MAF? If so, you still have a vacuum leak.
Refresh my memory, what pcode are you getting?
I do have 2 hoses on the accordion on the passenger side of the tube, as for the top speed, after redlining in 5th the car was able to continue to 130 in 6th before i ran out of road (i need to find a longer stretch of abandoned tarmac lol) so definitely low on power until around 7k rpm.
as far as aero goes... well everything looks fine, front spoiler lip has a bit of a gap in it(needs a new clip) but I doubt thats going to cause that big of an issue.
EDIT: ssv sticks open regardless of car position (nose up or down), I wonder if it's from the insanely high winds or something (12 stories up in a parking garage next to the ocean that allows air to flow)
I think that would be 6th since 5th tops out at around 120-130 ish.
Last edited by micvite; 11-15-2018 at 06:03 AM.
11-15-2018, 08:08 AM
#35
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The SSV is not going to be impacted by external winds. Have you verified whether the SSV is actually sticking (actuate it by hand)? It could be a bad switch. If the SSV is actually sticking, you'll probably have to remove the LIM and disassemble it to properly clean it out. It's also possible that your SSV solenoid is leaking and it's constantly applying vacuum to the SSV actuator.
Inspect all three solenoids with a MityVac hand pump and a 12v wall wart power supply.
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) SOLENOID VALVE INSPECTION
The IAT sensor is inside the MAF. Either you have a wiring issue or your MAF needs to be replaced.
DTC P0111
Inspect all three solenoids with a MityVac hand pump and a 12v wall wart power supply.
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) SOLENOID VALVE INSPECTION
The IAT sensor is inside the MAF. Either you have a wiring issue or your MAF needs to be replaced.
DTC P0111
12-07-2018, 10:07 AM
#36
So... just replaced my midpipe with bhr pipe, still have huge LTFT now up to 17 at idle, though my vibration is a lot better and also same MAF values, I honestly swear depending on where and how I park my car I get the ssv stuck open and the IAT as a pending code after I clear the ssv code.... only really happens on the colder days (40 or below)
cat was not clogged, looks fine, so what am I chasing after this time? Car feels low on power until 6500-7k rpm where it takes off like a rocket (ironically before it was misfiring at 7k... and what seemed to have fixed that was banging on the exhaust flange since after doing that it went away completely) I'm going to do the ignition next but if that doesn't fix it I seriously don't know what else to do...
not sure I'd this means anything but torque says my load at idle is 30% that seems awfully high to me for idle and throttle at 12%
cat was not clogged, looks fine, so what am I chasing after this time? Car feels low on power until 6500-7k rpm where it takes off like a rocket (ironically before it was misfiring at 7k... and what seemed to have fixed that was banging on the exhaust flange since after doing that it went away completely) I'm going to do the ignition next but if that doesn't fix it I seriously don't know what else to do...
not sure I'd this means anything but torque says my load at idle is 30% that seems awfully high to me for idle and throttle at 12%
12-07-2018, 10:37 AM
#37
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Did you try anything from my previous post? Quit throwing parts at the problem and actually test, troubleshoot and diagnose.
That load value is fine.
Midpipe is not going to change LTFT. Midpipe is not going to change IAT codes. Midpipe is not going to change SSV codes.
Ignition is not going to change LTFT. Ignition is not going to change IAT codes. Ignition is not going to change SSV codes.
That load value is fine.
Midpipe is not going to change LTFT. Midpipe is not going to change IAT codes. Midpipe is not going to change SSV codes.
Ignition is not going to change LTFT. Ignition is not going to change IAT codes. Ignition is not going to change SSV codes.
12-07-2018, 10:51 AM
#38
Did you try anything from my previous post? Quit throwing parts at the problem and actually test, troubleshoot and diagnose.
That load value is fine.
Midpipe is not going to change LTFT. Midpipe is not going to change IAT codes. Midpipe is not going to change SSV codes.
Ignition is not going to change LTFT. Ignition is not going to change IAT codes. Ignition is not going to change SSV codes.
That load value is fine.
Midpipe is not going to change LTFT. Midpipe is not going to change IAT codes. Midpipe is not going to change SSV codes.
Ignition is not going to change LTFT. Ignition is not going to change IAT codes. Ignition is not going to change SSV codes.
yes lol I don't post or throw parts at something for no reason. Ssv is not sticking at least It doesn't feel like it is to me (also doesn't explain why only on cold days and only certain parking spots would "make it stick") IAT code comes and goes, always pending, tried cleaning maf again and hasn't shown up since.
the reason I put a midpipe on was because I suspected cat was clogged (used to be misfiring at 7k rpm and banging on cat made that go away), I was planning to put a midpipe anyway so instead of having a shop charge me twice for labor to inspect it I just went and installed one.
sorry I should have clarified about what I did try haha. I dont have a 12v power supply so I haven't done the apv test yet or used vacuum to activate the ssv and vdi. But as I will hopefully have more time in the day when things are open I'll go buy one.
Last edited by micvite; 12-07-2018 at 11:05 AM.
12-07-2018, 11:12 AM
#39
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You could use 8 alkaline batteries wired in series. A cheap 12V power brick is
. Get a
as well while you're at it.
The reduced low-mid-range power plus the SSV code, the high LTFT, and the low MAF make me think you have a vacuum leak, probably related to the S-DAIS system. This would be a difficult leak to find using normal methods (smoke, spraying carb cleaner at hoses, etc).
Pull the UIM so you can get to the solenoids. Remove each solenoid and test by attaching the MityVac to port A (see the links above). Pull vacuum. It should hold 10 psi for several minutes. If it doesn't, replace the solenoid. If it does, get a 12V power source and apply it to the connector. The vacuum should go away immediately. If not, replace the solenoid.
With the UIM off, you should be able to get to the SSV and VDI actuators. Plug your MityVac into them and pull vacuum. They should be fully actuated by 4 PSI and hold vacuum for several minutes.
VARIABLE DYNAMIC EFFECT INTAKE-AIR (VDI) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
Since you've got the UIM off, might as well check the SSV switch. Follow the switch wiring to a connector and disconnect it. Use a multimeter to test continuity or resistance across the pins with your finger on and off the switch.
Inspect your vacuum hoses and make sure they aren't falling apart.
The IAT is in the MAF. It's possible you've got a bad connector, wire, or sensor.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar...200100W06.html
The reduced low-mid-range power plus the SSV code, the high LTFT, and the low MAF make me think you have a vacuum leak, probably related to the S-DAIS system. This would be a difficult leak to find using normal methods (smoke, spraying carb cleaner at hoses, etc).
Pull the UIM so you can get to the solenoids. Remove each solenoid and test by attaching the MityVac to port A (see the links above). Pull vacuum. It should hold 10 psi for several minutes. If it doesn't, replace the solenoid. If it does, get a 12V power source and apply it to the connector. The vacuum should go away immediately. If not, replace the solenoid.
With the UIM off, you should be able to get to the SSV and VDI actuators. Plug your MityVac into them and pull vacuum. They should be fully actuated by 4 PSI and hold vacuum for several minutes.
VARIABLE DYNAMIC EFFECT INTAKE-AIR (VDI) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
Since you've got the UIM off, might as well check the SSV switch. Follow the switch wiring to a connector and disconnect it. Use a multimeter to test continuity or resistance across the pins with your finger on and off the switch.
Inspect your vacuum hoses and make sure they aren't falling apart.
The IAT is in the MAF. It's possible you've got a bad connector, wire, or sensor.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar...200100W06.html
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 12-07-2018 at 11:15 AM.
03-05-2019, 06:49 PM
#40
You could use 8 alkaline batteries wired in series. A cheap 12V power brick is $5-$10 on Amazon. Get a MityVac hand pump as well while you're at it.
The reduced low-mid-range power plus the SSV code, the high LTFT, and the low MAF make me think you have a vacuum leak, probably related to the S-DAIS system. This would be a difficult leak to find using normal methods (smoke, spraying carb cleaner at hoses, etc).
Pull the UIM so you can get to the solenoids. Remove each solenoid and test by attaching the MityVac to port A (see the links above). Pull vacuum. It should hold 10 psi for several minutes. If it doesn't, replace the solenoid. If it does, get a 12V power source and apply it to the connector. The vacuum should go away immediately. If not, replace the solenoid.
With the UIM off, you should be able to get to the SSV and VDI actuators. Plug your MityVac into them and pull vacuum. They should be fully actuated by 4 PSI and hold vacuum for several minutes.
VARIABLE DYNAMIC EFFECT INTAKE-AIR (VDI) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
Since you've got the UIM off, might as well check the SSV switch. Follow the switch wiring to a connector and disconnect it. Use a multimeter to test continuity or resistance across the pins with your finger on and off the switch.
Inspect your vacuum hoses and make sure they aren't falling apart.
The IAT is in the MAF. It's possible you've got a bad connector, wire, or sensor.
DTC P0111
The reduced low-mid-range power plus the SSV code, the high LTFT, and the low MAF make me think you have a vacuum leak, probably related to the S-DAIS system. This would be a difficult leak to find using normal methods (smoke, spraying carb cleaner at hoses, etc).
Pull the UIM so you can get to the solenoids. Remove each solenoid and test by attaching the MityVac to port A (see the links above). Pull vacuum. It should hold 10 psi for several minutes. If it doesn't, replace the solenoid. If it does, get a 12V power source and apply it to the connector. The vacuum should go away immediately. If not, replace the solenoid.
With the UIM off, you should be able to get to the SSV and VDI actuators. Plug your MityVac into them and pull vacuum. They should be fully actuated by 4 PSI and hold vacuum for several minutes.
VARIABLE DYNAMIC EFFECT INTAKE-AIR (VDI) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
SECONDARY SHUTTER VALVE (SSV) ACTUATOR INSPECTION
Since you've got the UIM off, might as well check the SSV switch. Follow the switch wiring to a connector and disconnect it. Use a multimeter to test continuity or resistance across the pins with your finger on and off the switch.
Inspect your vacuum hoses and make sure they aren't falling apart.
The IAT is in the MAF. It's possible you've got a bad connector, wire, or sensor.
DTC P0111
so just to update, I found that the wonderful jackass that assembled my car during the warranty engine replacement in Kentucky routed the ssv vaccuum line THROUGH the intake (was trying to see if any of the vacuum lines had tears in them and saw this was stuck in between the UIM and the intake ports), so the whole thing was not getting any vaccuum due to being clamped in 4 different places and the ssv was not operational! After some hard work (trying to take off just enough of the UIM to get the hose out without taking the strut bars off on an s2 (I think those are on there permanently as the metal the strut bars are attached to is flexing when I tried to break the bolts loose...) and many many small hands later i found that the hose was shot, but that hose has some life left to it (I managed to tear it a bit so there was a vacuum leak and it wasn't operating the ssv), after "fixing" that tear, I now don't have this giant power surge anymore and the car feels faster altogether (I don't need to downshift to 3rd gear from 6th on the highway to have a hope in passing anymore lol) mazda said the part is on backorder (figures...) does anyone know the exact part number for the ssv vaccuum hose? I'm seeing different diagrams give different part numbers and according to mazda none of those "fit my car" based off the vin (those are in stock and I can order them anytime)
my guess is that's why the poor people got rid of the car 1k miles later... records indicate they took it to mazda a few times after (probably couldn't tell wtf was wrong with it) and they just had enough... who knows what else that guy screwed up... I guess I'm taking everything out eventually and making sure it's put together the right way, but for now I'm gonna learn how to take off in first gear without bogging and getting an 8.0 0-60 time lol (and figure out what the noise is when the car is under load.... sounds like an exhaust leak but it isnt... )
Last edited by micvite; 03-05-2019 at 06:52 PM.
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