N.leniczek

Looking for advice on finding the position sensor for the Oil Metering Pump Position Sensor, checked everywhere in Michigan AND eBay...

logalinipoo

What happened to cause it? rebuild or anything like that? is your sensor broken?

They take a soft hand to adjust, but if you do it very slow it is easy to do. sometimes you'll have it close enough to work and it will act up then you have to adjust it again. Just take your time. and adjust it one side at a time.

N.leniczek

It's the original motor, had zero issues except code p0037 which is 02 bank 1 sens 2, but doubt it would cause limp mode. I've unplugged the sensor while running and there was no difference in engine performance so that led me to believe that it was that sens. No other codes so I don't think it's coils or misfiring. I've cleaned MAF and when it is unplugged the engine stalls.

N.leniczek

Also is fine for ten seconds. Originally the TCS not DSC light would flash and if I turned off dsc it would gain power again on highway. Now it's constant limp mode.

logalinipoo

ok, don't mess with the omp.

so you've unpluged the rear sensor? If you've done that, then unplug the battery and do a 20 brake stomp reset. See what it does. I don't think limp mode and that sensor are related, but I am finding several people with those problems. but no real resolution.

The car should run fine without the rear sensor unplugged. ( mine has been for some time.) It should throw another code or 2.

as for the car runs fine for 10 seconds. that is normal with limp mode.

maf unplugged normally stalls the engine also.

N.leniczek

Have reset both the pcm and done the reset by brake pedal. I know a lot of people suggest that the coils could cause this but I don't have a misfire code, am in the process of pulling the cat to inspect it for clogging. I really couldn't think of an thing else other than a faulty omp sensor based on the lack of codes and that it doesn't change the way the motor runs if the omp sensor is unplugged completely, or plugged in, leading me to believe that it is the cause to my limp-home mode .

logalinipoo

Is your rear o2 sensor plugged in or not? I can not say that ive heard of a omp sensor going out of position but it could happen. I dont think Unplugging the sensor will make a difference unless your car is running fine.


If you really think its that sensor. You can take it off and give it a little ohm test, but if it is not the problem then you be trying to get the adjustment right while fighting another problem at the same time.

N.leniczek

OK, so no the o2 is plugged in and the omp is in its original position, at this point where would you suggest I start?

N.leniczek

OK, so no the o2 is plugged in and the omp is in its original position, at this point where would you suggest I start?

logalinipoo

Unplug rear o2 reset computer then try driving abd check codes.

If that doesnt work check into throttle body limp mode threads

N.leniczek

reset it with o2 unplugged, put new coils on, still having issues.

The car had the tps light flash when i was first haing problems. Could it possobly be a bad Speed sensor?

will check throttle body forums now

logalinipoo

Idk if a wheel sensor would cause limping


Are you sure your messing with the rear o2 sensor. It is located by the transmission under the passenger seat.

N.leniczek

Pretty sure, the one on the side of the cat next to the trans.

logalinipoo

Yeah, just double checking.

N.leniczek

Sorry I said TPS light, I meant the little car with the swaying tread marks below it blinked, I could turn off DCS originally and gain power back.

If it is a throttle body issues, Im having trouble locating any good threads on the topic containing Limp-home mode as well.

N.leniczek

Update: So i was still super curious about the fact the traction control light coming on when the problem first started I decided to just pull the fuse for the DCS and BOOM, limp mode gone. Now its just a matter of troubleshooting that system.

logalinipoo

Well I have no clue about that system's problems. I'm glad it's not your omp.

N.leniczek

Well, that lasted all of a day before it went back into limp mode.

This car is something else...
I cant believe there isnt a code for anything else. Perhaps the scanner im using is too basic to pick up the codes other than the O2 sensor...

Every time i do the 20 pump reset it comes on as soon as the CEL does so it must recognize something somewhere so there has to be another way to pulll a code.

CEL flashes 7 times though if that means anything.

Was driving great with the new coils yesterday.

logalinipoo

if you replace coils you should probably do plugs and wires also. plugs are only rated for 30K miles.

Let me look nw that I'm at a computer and I'll see If I can dig anything up.

logalinipoo

you do know how to search.

Go to google and type

Site:rx8club.com xxxxxxxx

replce the x's with your search


https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...p-mode-169624/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...p-mode-236175/

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...+body&start=10

N.leniczek

I have read each of those articles at least twice, trying hard not to give too little information, but have been improving the situation.

STILL no codes except o2 sens..

Again, thanks for all of the help and advice so far.

So as the car sits, it will not rev up to about 6k (slowly)
The car runs fine for first ten seconds still, before entering closed loop.

The SSV works for the first 10 seconds, visibly opening and closing, then stops when the car enters cosed loop...

1. Does Limp mode cause the ssv to stop functioning as a part of its "shut off" or "limp" procedure?

Really wondering if there was just a point in time where the car decided to go out of limp mode as I just so happened to pull the fuse to the ABS/DSC system, and that is just now a coincidence.

2. When the car came out of limp mode for the one whole day, before returning it bounced off of 7k then went limp again, so maybe fuel pump issues?

N.leniczek

Also kinda of a long shot but what if it is fuel related, because if the pump is priming, creating enough pressure to get the car going at start up, then when pressure goes back down to the level the pump is able to produce, it is simulating limp mode, since there are not any codes or misfires.


Just trying to put in as much of my own knowledge and effort, this is my first time on a forum.

And after all the years of reading them, trust me I learned to search first, ask questions later. I have Searched the **** out of google and various forums before I bother people who all offer their time up to help!

logalinipoo

blinking cel is a misfire. you said you had that.


I searched what I could and couldn't think of anything else either. That's why i posted those. I figured I'd let you have a thought with them.

N.leniczek

Thank you. I took your advice and changed the plugs so all in all the only thing it could be is that I need a better scanner than autozone has because I only has p0037. I have no misfires,the flashing CEL was due to the battery recently being unplugged.

Also cleaned the MAF, inspected all harnesses related to the omp. Did a small wire repair since the wire coating was a little bit damaged, still made no difference unfortunately.

I may have to run it to the dealer that is near my home out in Detroit, MI.

I can not simply fathom anything else in regards to it happening (Limp mode) the second the check engine light comes on after I reset or do the 20 brake stomps.

I wanted to reiterate the car revs up to about 6k +/- with clutch depressed.

I also unplugged the MAF again while was running and it did not shut off, sputtered for a second than ran at a slightly lower performance.

Im going to go ahead and try and locate the OMP sensor because the dealer will probably charge the same just to have it diagnosed or scanned as a last try before I pay anyone to scan it.

logalinipoo

Does it rev slowely or quick then stop?

When you unplug the MAf it goes into a fueling mode based on other inputs. IT'll run, but like crap normally and sometimes It idles sometimes it doesn't.

The sensor can not be bought without the omp unless you buy one used. Even used most people only sell them together. There are a few that look close, but I have not seen anyone who's bought one. I drove around with mine super glued together for several years until I could find a used one for a reasonable price.

If you want to pull it off and test it. Then ignore the middle pin. Ohm out the outside two pins. the number should change. it jumps around. Then it goes open. If that's happening the sensor is good in my book. There is no real known or at least posted way of testing them or exactly how they work. I believe they work as a on off switch not a position sensor.