Ccreech

so I just bought my 04 rx8 thinking it needed a new engine / rebuild. I went out today and check he plugs and coils. I found 3 pretty much dead coils and every plug fouled. prior to this, I could.l NOT get this car to even idle. I changed plugs and coils today and instantly I have a decent idle close to 1k RPM however, the car still has an extremely sluggish acceleration. I was told this 8 has had a recent engine transplant. It still has marker paint on every part on it including the fan belt. I let the car idle for over an hour today, I can let her run, turn it off and start it hot without any problems. I have cleaned the MAF sensor, barometric sensor, air filter... does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm going to attempt to pull the Cat tomorrow and see if it helps anything, maybe the cat is clogged? The faster you press the gas, the worse the bogging is. I am unable to get this car to a shop currently for a compression test, however I have pulled the leading plug out and cranked it and have gotten a consistent rythem. Any info would help. Thanks!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Is it sluggish through the entire rev range ?

Try checking ssv .... see this thread :https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...operly-265862/

Ccreech

After around 4K RPM it starts to liven up. The idle is now really low, you can barely hear the car running. It has a solid CEL light now so I'm going to check the codes when I get home this evening and hopefully get this thing going. I'll touch base on here when I get the codes ran.

Ccreech

So I'm throwing 6 codes. P0113, P0103, P0107, P0102, P0661. Cleaned the MAF again and sprayed some throttle body cleaner in the throttle body just for good measure. Today this thing would barely idle at like 750 and would randomly shoot up to 2k. At one point it was if it wasn't even running. Would I get a code if the cat has failed? I haven't had time to pull it or the SSV. Maybe tomorrow before work.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

maf and Iat are on the same plug to the maf - check that connection

Baro sensor is the one attached to the same bracket as the air pump - check connection . Also try unplugging the baro sensor and see if idle comes right.

And you also have an ssv code ....... see my first post .

Ccreech

I'll definitely try the sensors / connections tomorrow. Not sure if I'll have time to check the SSV before work or not tomorrow anyway but we'll see. I drove the car today for a minute. It has 0 power on the low end. Had to rev past 4K to take off. I'm thinking I may try a seafoam treatment also.

gwilliams6

P0113 IAT sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM ´
P0103 MAF sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM ,
P0107 MAF sensor circuit high input ON 1 CCM ´
P0102 MAF sensor circuit low input ON 1 CCM ,
P0661 SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM

Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure

Ccreech

So I took off work today just to work on this car. I changed the MAF sensor, baro sensor, and took the cat completely off. I was actually able to drive my car after... kinda. I drove about 15 miles hoping it would clear up. The power is still gone through the powerband. It idles perfect now at least. I still didn't get the chance to pull the SSV. I gutted the cat so I'll put it back on when I get the chance. Tomorrow I'll try cleaning the e-shaft sensor and pray that it helps. Also, when you first start this thing, it literally won't do anything. Try and give it gas, it seems like it wants to start singing, but she gets stage fright...literally 0 throttle response. Hopefully if I diagnose my current problem, it fixes that one too? I really don't think I'm experiencing engine failure. This thing hot starts way too easy, or maybe I'm just in denial? I did take a video of it accelerating, if someone would like to see it then message me your number and I'll text it to you. OH! Also, on my way back to the garage from my 15 mile adventure earlier, she let out a few good backfires in mid rev and I received a flashing CEL. The cat was off so the CEL was on anyway along with the rest of the codes she's throwing, but I know flashing means misfire. I've already changed plugs and coils. Any other reason it would act that way? The light stopped flashing and it ran fine after that. Hope it's nothing major.

gwilliams6

did you change wires as well as plugs and coils ?

Ccreech

Plug wires are in the mail, I had to order those. The current wires appeared to be in good shape though. Hmm, would a seafoam treatment have any negative impact on the plugs? Just a thought.

gwilliams6

Cant tell about wires from the way they look if you haven't electrically tested them. And if they are old or worn, even a single bad wire, that will degrade your ignition system as badly as a worn coil or worn plug. Rule of thumb is to change wires, coils and plugs together, unless you have BHR or similar coils, which are lifetime.

Don't seaform until you have those new wires as you need full ignition system working at top performance. Follow seaform directions and you will have no adverse effects on your new plugs.

Ccreech

Looks like my hands are tied until my wires get here. Today I cleaned the e-shaft sensor and no dice. When I get my plugs in, I'll change those and clean the SSV for good measure. After that, I believe I'll assume the worst and shoot for a new engine

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Ccreech ..... did you even look at the video I posted the link to ?

Ccreech

Yea I did check it out. I just haven't done it because I have a nagging wife and a new born baby at home. I have been hesitant to do anything that's time consuming really because of the ole lady making me do honey doo chores. I'm going to try it this weekend though for sure. Maybe sooner.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The whole point of the video is that it can take less than a minute to check the ssv is working properly ....

Ccreech

Brettus, my bad man. I remember clicking the link but I ended up watching a video of someone cleaning the SSV. I'll get on that tomorrow and see if it's actuating properly. Sorry about that buddy, thanks again though.

Ccreech

Quick question guys. My coil bracket is broken. I have a new one ordered but I haven't received it yet. I received my plug wires yesterday, installed them and this thing still runs like ****. Unfortunately, I have no one to throttle this thing while I check the SSV. At this moment, I'm out here ready to pull this SSV out and clean it anyway. I can manually move the actuater arm if that means anything at all. Anyway, my coils literally have no nuts holding them on at all. All four bolts are snapped in half. Do these need to be grounded to the coil bracket? I'd feel pretty stupid but relieved as well if someone says yes, yes they do need to be grounded to the coil bracket. Thanks!

UnknownJinX

Just ask your wife to press the gas pedal a couple of times?

Seems like these bolts snap easily. I snapped mine when I was change my coils. I had to drive to the dealership to sort it out, but I experienced no trouble driving the car with loose coils. The OEM ones will work as long as you connect the connectors properly.

Ccreech

Ok guys, my SSV was in pretty good shape which has me wondering if the guy I bought this car from was telling the truth about this engine being a recent replacement.. also, as I stated in an earlier post this engine had grease pen markings on everything including the fan belt. I've drove this thing for maybe 30 miles testing and the pin markings are now gone? Maybe it was replaced but with a bad engine? But I still have no hotstart problems? The car is drivable but not so much that I can drive it 50 miles one way to a Mazda dealership for compression testing. I'm s lost. Could this be a fuel issue? If it's at idle and you stomp the gas it does nothing. It's like the car wants to mumble instead of scream. The only way I can get any throttle response at ole is to feather the pedal. The only codes it's throwing now is the throttle body positioning sensor so I'm assuming that's my ideling issue. Anyway, I found an 04 6 speed ft that has ate **** at a local scrape yard. Went there today and scored a K&N typhoon intake for 40 bucks with another MAF on it. The guy said he'd sell me the engine for 400 bucks and guarantee it for 6 months. Needless to say I'm going to buy it, but if I decide to just do a swap now would I need to rehash the ecu? If so, is it possible that my ecu currently is pretty much retarded and may have not been reflashed with this current engine when swapped? I really want to make this current set up work and buy the other engine for a back up or maybe a turbo build the winter. Sorry for the long post guys. I'm driving home from work and thinking about this car is driving me nuts.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Let's take a couple of steps back

Bring that Typhoon intake right back to the junkyard. It by itself can cause idle and performance problems, and provides no benefit of any sort.

Why would you buy a junkyard engine? How do you know it's in good enough shape to last more than 6 months? If you do buy it, make sure it's the same as yours: if your car is an automatic 04-05, you need an automatic engine from those years as well. If yours is a 2004-2008 manual, you need a manual engine from those years. If yours is a 2009+, you need a 2009+

As for your issue, I suggest you get data on what the various sensors are telling the computer and go from there. You can do this with an OBD Reader, they start at $15 on amazon. Look at the fuel trims, airflow and throttle position data. That's the best way to do the right repair the first time. It could be as simple as a vacuum leak from a loose vacuum hose.

Ccreech

Loki, I appreciate your advice. Truly I wanted the 400 dollar engine to build over winter and more or less have a back-up engine to swap if I lose compression on the other. I'll take your advice and keep the typhoon intake off the car. I also ordered a VeePeak obd2 reader that is suppose to arrive on Friday. Perhaps I'll be able to post some more information then. I think before I spend any additional cash on anything else including an engine, I'm going to try to get my problem properly diagnosed. And BTW, not sure if I've said this but my car is a '04 lightening yellow GT, 6 speed manny tranny with 143k.

Travon G

Hi, I am a first time 2004 rx8 owner... recently there were recalls so I set up a tow to pick it up. Next, I'm getting a call saying the it was turning but not starting (which I told the tow driver when he picked it up). They told me they couldn't do the recalls without fixing the problem. I gave them conformation to figure out what's wrong and they said something about The pcm and only the leading coils were working... right now im looking at 1618.99 and possibly another 437.00! I was told to let them fix it. I'm wondering if they have payment options or anything to get my car out sooner

Ccreech

So I'm not sure how accurate these obd2 readers are but here's what I'm looking at. The app was reading 236 HP at 9,000 rpm once the engine was to temp. Accurate? Hopefully, that gives me hope that I don't have a bad engine. Moving on, fuel trim levels are at 0 and fuel pressure is at 0... I have to have something because the cars running. Now, I have the intake off the car to get to the fuel rail (which is getting plenty of fuel). Pulled the injectors. Ugh. Can anyone tell me what they should read on a multimeter? I'm really hoping I've got an injector stuck open.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

You should start your own thread instead of dropping in on someone else's. It's normal to need to replace coils, recommended every 30k miles on these cars. So that part is OK, but obviously being the dealer, you're going to pay a premium. It's a really easy job, so you can go to AutoZone, get coils and replace them yourself.

Don't fall for any "pcm needs replacement" nonsense. The odds that it needs replacement are soooo low, that you should demand proof that it is actually the culprit.

I'd ask for a compression test and an inspection of the catalytic converter while it's there. My bet is the coils will get you running.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't trust any app that's not attached to wheels to measure horsepower. I had one tell me I had 980 at some point.

Fuel trim at 0 at idle? 0 is unusual, I'd expect 1 or -1, but not perfect 0. Was the battery unplugged and has the car had time to relearn the fuel trims since then?

What's the airflow measurement while idling or cranking? One thing you could also try is unplugging the MAF sensor and trying to start. If it starts, the problem is somewhere between the airflow measurement and the car deciding how much fuel to inject.