Solmors

After 10 years of driving my first car (2003 Mazda Protege) I finally got a new car! 2005 Mazda RX-8 Shinka with only 49k miles!

I read through the stickes before buying, so I think I know what I'm getting into. I just wanted to register to the forums and say hi.

Hello from Sacramento, CA!

gwilliams6

Welcome! How is the compression on your engine, did you get a compression test before you bought it?

Solmors

I took it to a mazda dealership and hand them do a full check on everything before I bought it. Only thing they found was 1/2 quart low on oil and breaks pads are low. Looking at the paperwork again, it says 100psi. That's in the acceptable range, but on the lower end.

The only thing I'm a little worried about is it takes the engine 2-4 seconds to start. Battery is new (6 months), maybe the starter or plugs? Mazda did say all the recalls have been done in it...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If the starting time cold is the same as the starting time hot, then the slow start is probably not due to compression, and you can start testing the battery and ignition. The test sheet should have had a starter speed on it to know if that is a contributing factor.

Solmors

Yea, it happens on cold and hot starts. I'll be heading to my parents house this weekend to show it off, and my dad has a multimeter, timing light, and other fun tools. I'll take a look at it then.

But I didn't come here to figure that out, I came to say how much damn fun it is to drive! I love taking the circular freeway entrances at 60+.

I also just ordered a cover for it. I live in a duplex with no garage, so it sits outside all day under a tree that is known to drop some sap and have birds. I got it off ebay, supposedly weatherproof with a fleece inner lining. I'm also looking into getting a radar detector, because I can tell already I'll be driving a little more aggressive than normal. Thinking about the Escort 8500 x50 or Beltronics V10 (which is apparently nearly the same as the pro 300).

gwilliams6

Be sure that car cover is breathable. If it is not, any trapped moisture can cloud your paint and ruin it. Honestly ! But yes you want to keep sap and bird droppings off of it. The thing about these RX8s is yes they are fun. But they require more attention and care than any piston car you have owned. We love to share on this forum how much fun these cars are, but we also want to help keep you informed how to properly care for it and how to keep it running right.

A single psi number is no complete rotary compression test. You need a total of six number; a number for each of three rotor faces ,on each of two rotors. You also need the cranking speed during the compression test and the altitude (above sea level) the test was conducted at. ONLY THEN will you have a true picture of the true health of your engine. We have a rotary compression results chart in the new owners thread, just scroll through until you get to it.

It does not matter so much that there are only 49k miles on the car, as much as it matters how the car, and most importantly the rotary engine was driven and maintained. We don't want your joy to turn to sorrow if you wind up replacing a failing rotary engine for thousands of dollars.

Ask for the complete service records for your used RX8 and ask for the complete compression test numbers. Many dealers and private owners sell their used RX8s with failing engines to unsuspecting buyers who have little or no knowledge of what to check or what to look at before buying a used RX8. We are all here to share your joy, but also to help you keep your joy together.

Don't get caught up in a frenzy to buy stuff for the car until you know if you will be needing to save your money for an engine down the road.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
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