Roadrunn

Hi,
I have a 2010 RX8 R3 and cannot get it to pass inspection. The most I have passed is 2 or 3 of the New York State Emissions test. Its not my daily driver. I really only drive it on the weekend. The mechanic said there were no codes and to just drive it more. Can anyone offer some additional tips? Thanks.

boricua13

If you did a full reset, it will take a while, last time I did that, it took 140 miles or so to pass all the codes, that was 2 years ago. If you only reset the codes via OBD2, it will reset faster, or at least it was one mine, all but one in about 17 miles (last year).
Mazda's computer is weird that way, just got to drive and monitor, use a cheap ELM327 Bluetooth scanner with your favorite phone app.

In NYS you can pass inspection with one code not ready.

UnknownJinX

EVAP will take a while to get ready.

Everything else should clear up after 50 miles or so.

furansu

What values are out of spec according to the emissions testing? Is it just the readiness codes, or are some of the values outside of acceptable perimeters?

Roadrunn

Not sure. They didnt say exactly which codes. Last time I had tried they said I had failed two out of the five. Then when they retested shortly after it was three out of the five. Had it checked at my local mechanic. That was right after I had driven it about 100 miles round trip. He said to drive it more. I had also asked him afterwards if there were any codes and he said no. One of my friends had said it might be that it needs to get the Catalytic Converter replaced, since its stock. Its only got about 38k miles on it. I had brought it to Mazda a few months ago as well and they didnt mention the CC. Doesnt hurt to get it checked out though I suppose. I will get the codes checked out again also to be sure. Also have to make sure Im doing the drive cycle as per the DMV.

https://dmv.ny.gov/brochure/what-do-...cars-not-ready

"What Do I Do Now?

To allow your vehicle's monitors to perform their tests and reset them to a "ready" state, your vehicle will have to be driven in a special way called a "drive cycle." Running through the drive cycle sets the readiness monitors so they can detect any emissions failures. Your vehicle's specific drive cycle can depend on the vehicle make and model, and which monitor needs to be reset. In most cases, two drive cycles are required, separated by a cool down period."

"What Are My Options?

If the only reason your vehicle failed the inspection was due to readiness monitors not being in a "ready" state, and your current inspection has already expired, the inspection software will issue a 10-day extension that will allow you to legally operate your vehicle on the highways. During those ten days, you can either:

1. Drive the vehicle as directed by your owner’s manual (look under OBD); use the generic drive cycle on the back of this brochure; or consult with a qualified auto technician who can tell you how to complete a vehicle or monitor specific drive cycle. Be sure to return to the inspection station within ten days to get the vehicle re-inspected.
2. Negotiate with the inspection station to have a technician perform the drive cycles according to manufacturer specific guidelines for a fee you will pay.

If you take the vehicle from the inspection facility to perform the drive cycle yourself, the inspection station operator can charge you an emission re-inspection fee, up to the maximum fee allowed for an original emission inspection."

boricua13

Get one of the ones from the link below, download Dash-Command or Toque app, monitor and read the codes, Google the codes, then you will know what you are dealing with.

Speedanimal

I just went through my inspection here in Texas and it took some trickery with my car to get everything set readiness wise for emissions.

However, this was due to my car wanting to throw the P0410 Airpump CEL. If you car doesn't throw a check engine light (which will prevent some of these monitors from readying) then you should be able to get these to set no problem. The most difficult to set in my experience was the Evaporative System. First, if there is no CEL do not disconnect the battery or reset your PCM's ram with the brake pedal stomp, the car needs cycle data. To get my Evaporative System to set I had to drive the car for a bit (see below), make sure it had 1/4-3/4 of a tank of fuel (specifically just over half), and then let it sit overnight to a full day, then on the next startup it set that monitor (granted with some trickery to get the Airpump working). The Secondary Air Pump system my not set if your ambient temps are high enough that the car doesn't command the pump to run on a cold start. However, I would assume you could get all others bar this guy to set and not worry about it.

If it's your catalyst systems not readying this is strange, especially without a code as I would suspect you would get one. I followed no drive cycle suggestion and simply drove my car for 15-20 miles at a time while testing on a 45 mph road in 3rd to 5th gear near my house. These systems on my '04 set within that first drive and for reference my Cat has 60-70k miles on it, a lot of which with apparently over rich fuel mixture haha...seems to be fine.

As mentioned above, it is very helpful to have a dongle and something as easy as the "Torque" app for your phone to show you what is set and what isn't. Again be careful not to reset for codes etc as that will simply require you to start over.

furansu

Are you paying the shop every time they test the car? They need to clearly identify why you failed so that you can address it, otherwise they are just wasting your time, and possibly your money.

Roadrunn

Awesome. Thanks for the tips!

Roadrunn

No actually, the mechanic that owns the shop is friendly and has never charged me for it. He said to drive it more. Gave me some tips as in turn off all accessories, decelerate without hitting the brakes then speed back up, etc. I have code reader now so I can see for myself as well.

speed7

actually you’ll want everything on.. turn on AC and lights and do your drive cycles then. I had a similar problem with the cold start test after the battery was disconnected. After a few days of driving to and from work. The car was good to go. The problem is not specifically miles.. sometimes it’s tests related to the cold start systems. If you fail again find out exactly what you’re failing on and we can look it up.

furansu

Good guy or not, he should be able to tell you what measures are failing, and what conditions are established as part of the test (what engine load, speed range, accessories in use, etc). You are trying to pass emissions, however you do not know what metrics to meet in order to do so. I'm sure he will accommodate and provide any details you need, if you posit the question.

Roadrunn

Thanks. Yes, I will ask him this. I was able to finally scan my codes myself. Here is what I found.

Vehicle: 2010 Mazda RX-8
0 Confirmed Trouble Codes:
0 Pending Trouble Codes:
2 Powertrain Control Module Trouble Codes:
• P1685: Metering oil pump stepping motor #1 control circuit
• P0076: Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low Bank 1
1 Remote Keyless Entry Trouble Codes:
• B1318: Check report for description.

speed7

Do you have an CEL on atm?

furansu

You may be running in a 'safe mode' with richer than normal conditions due to the errors experienced.

P0076 should relate to the VDI or SSV valves. Likely just a solenoid failure and easy to repair/replace. I suggest replacing all three, they are 9$ on Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...434580&jsn=430

A more expensive solenoid exists closer to the throttle body, but it should trigger a P0443 if something is wrong with it.

P1685 may be of real concern with a blockage or issue with the vacuum assembly. Does the oil light on the dash flash at all? Silly question, but your present oil level is good, right?

Mazda code detail: P1685 N/A OMP oil pres sensor oil pressure high

Roadrunn

No CEL while I was driving it the past few times. None either when I did the code test.

Roadrunn

The Oil light did flash a few times when I drove it. Didn't look like level was low though. Just added oil and it went away. Usually happened at the end of a long drive. Didnt seem like a problem. It has flashed in the past when the oil level looked good but just added oil and didnt happen for a long time after that.

furansu

May be an old code from before the oil was added then. We'll see if it returns. If the OMP isn't operating as intended, it'd be of concern for the health of the engine as it will accelerate side, corner, and apex seal wear, as well as wear to the housings. Pre-mixing would be bad for your emissions right now, but a good safety once you pass emissions testing.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

The official Mazda readiness "break-in" procedure is around here somewhere.

Your snippet does not speak to the actual readiness tests status or results... those are just trouble codes you shared... a few of which are definitely of concern.

Did you pull those codes before or after resetting your CEL? If before, what does it look like now? If after, you'll probably want to set aside some $$$.