A gift.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
A gift.
So I was recently gifted a first gen rx8 and I know the motor was rebuilt about 2 years ago but was only driven maybe 5 or six times since then and the battery has been dead for at least a year. What can I do to refresh those Apex seals or do I even need to do that? I o ly know enough about rotary to get me through a conversation. Any help is appreciated
If it was rebuilt and barely driven, the seals are probably fine. Just drive jt, but make sure you read the New and Potential Owners thread and make absolutely sure the catalytic converter and ignition coils are healthy.
Registered
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 265
Likes: 58
From: North carolina
Pre mix the gas (look up how to do it) or if you want to spend some money to make sure it last for a while which you should buy a oil metering pump sohn kit. Other then that you should be fine just driving it
Registered
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 298
Likes: 50
From: Colorado Springs
Two years isn't terrible, but the fuel will be pretty rutted by now. Best thing to do would be drop and drain the fuel tank and send the fuel injectors off for cleaning, but that may be unrealistic so try the following:
Maintenance and preparation:
-Give it a thorough clean and inspect all of the rubber (tires, bushings, hoses, seals, etc)
-Procure a new battery (inspect the wires and terminals for corrosion or damage)
-Change engine oil and filter
-Change coolant, Mazda FL22 pre-mix fluid only (inspect coolant tank, hoses, and radiator for embrittlement or cracking)
-Change brake and clutch fluid
-Consider flushing trans and differential fluids, though not required
-Pour about 5ml of engine oil into the bottom spark plug ports (L - Leading), clean spark plugs but try not to replace just yet, unless required.
-Put a liberal amount of 2-stroke (JASO FD spec) oil into the fuel tank (1oz of oil per gallon of fuel just for the initial aged tank)
-Put as much fresh premium fuel in as you can manage (5 gallons at least) to dilute the old fuel)
-Unbolt header to midpipe bolts (3xQTY 14mm bolt+nut, 35lbs-ft torque spec.) and inspect inlet to catalytic converter for physical damage.
Starting for the first time:
-Turn key to on but don't start (listen for fuel pump to prime, inspect underhood for leaks, particularly around the lower intake and fuel injectors)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key to start for a second just to briefly spin the motor. (Recheck underhood for any leaks or concerns)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key, let it spin for 10 seconds to cycle the oil through the chambers.
-Repeat one more time but after two seconds or so, lift off the pedal so that the injectors fire and see if it will start. If it starts, get on the throttle and assure it stays above 1,200RPM for 30 seconds.
-After 30 seconds, let it idle down and see how it sounds, inspecting underhood for leaks (again)
After you've run it for a bit and have fresh gas, change the spark plugs, wires (and preferably coils) to assure the ignition system is sound. Do whatever other preventative care you choose to do and enjoy it. Maybe get a compression test so that you are aware of the engine health.
Maintenance and preparation:
-Give it a thorough clean and inspect all of the rubber (tires, bushings, hoses, seals, etc)
-Procure a new battery (inspect the wires and terminals for corrosion or damage)
-Change engine oil and filter
-Change coolant, Mazda FL22 pre-mix fluid only (inspect coolant tank, hoses, and radiator for embrittlement or cracking)
-Change brake and clutch fluid
-Consider flushing trans and differential fluids, though not required
-Pour about 5ml of engine oil into the bottom spark plug ports (L - Leading), clean spark plugs but try not to replace just yet, unless required.
-Put a liberal amount of 2-stroke (JASO FD spec) oil into the fuel tank (1oz of oil per gallon of fuel just for the initial aged tank)
-Put as much fresh premium fuel in as you can manage (5 gallons at least) to dilute the old fuel)
-Unbolt header to midpipe bolts (3xQTY 14mm bolt+nut, 35lbs-ft torque spec.) and inspect inlet to catalytic converter for physical damage.
Starting for the first time:
-Turn key to on but don't start (listen for fuel pump to prime, inspect underhood for leaks, particularly around the lower intake and fuel injectors)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key to start for a second just to briefly spin the motor. (Recheck underhood for any leaks or concerns)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key, let it spin for 10 seconds to cycle the oil through the chambers.
-Repeat one more time but after two seconds or so, lift off the pedal so that the injectors fire and see if it will start. If it starts, get on the throttle and assure it stays above 1,200RPM for 30 seconds.
-After 30 seconds, let it idle down and see how it sounds, inspecting underhood for leaks (again)
After you've run it for a bit and have fresh gas, change the spark plugs, wires (and preferably coils) to assure the ignition system is sound. Do whatever other preventative care you choose to do and enjoy it. Maybe get a compression test so that you are aware of the engine health.
Last edited by furansu; Oct 4, 2019 at 08:39 PM.
REW Club
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 254
Likes: 31
From: Belton, TX
Two years isn't terrible, but the fuel will be pretty rutted by now. Best thing to do would be drop and drain the fuel tank and send the fuel injectors off for cleaning, but that may be unrealistic so try the following:
Maintenance and preparation:
-Give it a thorough clean and inspect all of the rubber (tires, bushings, hoses, seals, etc)
-Procure a new battery (inspect the wires and terminals for corrosion or damage)
-Change engine oil and filter
-Change coolant, Mazda FL22 pre-mix fluid only (inspect coolant tank, hoses, and radiator for embrittlement or cracking)
-Change brake and clutch fluid
-Consider flushing trans and differential fluids, though not required
-Pour about 5ml of engine oil into the bottom spark plug ports (L - Leading), clean spark plugs but try not to replace just yet, unless required.
-Put a liberal amount of 2-stroke (JASO FD spec) oil into the fuel tank (1oz of oil per gallon of fuel just for the initial aged tank)
-Put as much fresh premium fuel in as you can manage (5 gallons at least) to dilute the old fuel)
-Unbolt header to midpipe bolts (3xQTY 14mm bolt+nut, 35lbs-ft torque spec.) and inspect inlet to catalytic converter for physical damage.
Starting for the first time:
-Turn key to on but don't start (listen for fuel pump to prime, inspect underhood for leaks, particularly around the lower intake and fuel injectors)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key to start for a second just to briefly spin the motor. (Recheck underhood for any leaks or concerns)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key, let it spin for 10 seconds to cycle the oil through the chambers.
-Repeat one more time but after two seconds or so, lift off the pedal so that the injectors fire and see if it will start. If it starts, get on the throttle and assure it stays above 1,200RPM for 30 seconds.
-After 30 seconds, let it idle down and see how it sounds, inspecting underhood for leaks (again)
After you've run it for a bit and have fresh gas, change the spark plugs, wires (and preferably coils) to assure the ignition system is sound. Do whatever other preventative care you choose to do and enjoy it. Maybe get a compression test so that you are aware of the engine health.
Maintenance and preparation:
-Give it a thorough clean and inspect all of the rubber (tires, bushings, hoses, seals, etc)
-Procure a new battery (inspect the wires and terminals for corrosion or damage)
-Change engine oil and filter
-Change coolant, Mazda FL22 pre-mix fluid only (inspect coolant tank, hoses, and radiator for embrittlement or cracking)
-Change brake and clutch fluid
-Consider flushing trans and differential fluids, though not required
-Pour about 5ml of engine oil into the bottom spark plug ports (L - Leading), clean spark plugs but try not to replace just yet, unless required.
-Put a liberal amount of 2-stroke (JASO FD spec) oil into the fuel tank (1oz of oil per gallon of fuel just for the initial aged tank)
-Put as much fresh premium fuel in as you can manage (5 gallons at least) to dilute the old fuel)
-Unbolt header to midpipe bolts (3xQTY 14mm bolt+nut, 35lbs-ft torque spec.) and inspect inlet to catalytic converter for physical damage.
Starting for the first time:
-Turn key to on but don't start (listen for fuel pump to prime, inspect underhood for leaks, particularly around the lower intake and fuel injectors)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key to start for a second just to briefly spin the motor. (Recheck underhood for any leaks or concerns)
-Hold the gas pedal to the floor so that the injectors don't fire and turn the key, let it spin for 10 seconds to cycle the oil through the chambers.
-Repeat one more time but after two seconds or so, lift off the pedal so that the injectors fire and see if it will start. If it starts, get on the throttle and assure it stays above 1,200RPM for 30 seconds.
-After 30 seconds, let it idle down and see how it sounds, inspecting underhood for leaks (again)
After you've run it for a bit and have fresh gas, change the spark plugs, wires (and preferably coils) to assure the ignition system is sound. Do whatever other preventative care you choose to do and enjoy it. Maybe get a compression test so that you are aware of the engine health.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post