Oh, also when I wanted to put it into first while moving slowly, the gear shifter started shaking in and out of the gear rhythmically. I really do think it's something to do with the clutch not disengaging in the end.

 

Not sure if it's any helpful, but I've decided to record a small POV of what I'm doing when the car gets stuck in reverse. I haven't really mentioned it but when I'm in reverse, off the brake, the car stands still, until I get it out, then it moves forward (because of the small hill it's on)


so, summing up, I am definitely sure this is not some oil-related issue now. Question is, why does the clutch not fully disengage? I guess before I go on with dropping the transmission and doing some kind of clutch swap, I should probably inspect the slave cylinder closely.

Issue is, I'm not any kind of specialist, so I probably wouldn't even know it was wrong if it said so to my face.

I am pretty sure that I don't have issues when the transmission and clutch are cold. I will double check this tomorrow, by checking the reverse same way as in the video.

I think though the clutch might just seriously be ****** up. A few months ago, I accidentally dumped clutch, twice, in...... third gear. Ended up with smoke rising through the hood. Weirdly enough no slipping after that, so I figured it shouldn't be all that bad, but maybe it was enough damage to kill the, almost new at that time, clutch.

 

It's fine on a cold transmission, which does lead me to believe it's something to do with the hydraulic system honestly.

 

Clutch pedal know to bend and break on rx8 had to replace mine once and now it's bend again and going to get aftermarket pedal assembly to hopefully solve the problem

 

Yep, I've replaced it already trying to fix this
Left the car at a mechanic now, maybe he can figure it out

 

Hi, Did the mechanic find anything?

 

I can finally come back with an update.
The mechanic took out the transmission. Here's the state of my clutch 😳

I also have a bad motor mount, but not sure what I want to do to it yet. Replace with a used one for $75, or get both mounts regenerated with polyurethane for $150? I'd normally choose option 2, but it will mean the car has to stay somewhere with no mounts for a week. Not sure if I have any spot to keep it in. Is it worthwhile to get a used mount? New ones are $250 here for some reason.

 

Hi,Just saw your post.If it’s fixed great!If not it looks like the clutch pedal broke-common prob.Get a BHR reinforced one!Easy to do-I replaced two with 2 different RX8’s.

 

Hi again,
The clutch does not look bad at all, except for the fluid stain on the friction surface. it is worn out and the rattle happens to all sprung clutch plate.
It's just the springs rattling in the holder.
As for the pressure plate the finger were the throw out bearing runs has worn a grove as for the working side didn't see it. Also worn out.
It's the same story for the throw out bearing. all 3 of these come with a new clutch kit. but i would also replace the piolet bearing in the middle of the flywheel.

If i was in your shoes this is what I would do.

1. 2nd hand motor mounts on both and keep your old one's for polly upgrade. (At your own pace)
2. If you have a stock engine out put, cheapest stock replacement clutch kit + piolet bearing new.
3. have flywheel machined flat for new clutch.

AS for the problem of it not disengaging ,
How's the condition of the slave cylinder and rubber + metal lines + fittings? (cracks , misfitting connections, ect.)
Was the replacement master cylinder new or used?

 

Hi, the master cylinder was new
The video may not show it, but there was very little friction material left, and even the springs looked like they have been eaten through a little.
I've already ordered a new clutch kit and will have it mounted soon.
Since it's at the mechanic, I haven't inspected the slave cylinder myself, but I guess it's a good point to look at it while the transmission's out for easy inspection.

When talking about the pilot bearing, I unfortunately can't find any part numbers to order it. Only one I've found in Poland is YF09-11-303, and I'm not even sure if that's correct (and it doesn't come with the seal).

 

As for the engine mounts - I've found a new option for me.
These mounts - https://nicon-rotary.com/en/product/...ts-mazda-rx-8/

With shipping they're $200, while the polyurethane regen is $168, and two used mounts are $149, so if these are known and good, I think they're a good option. Haven't seen them talked about before though.

 

Hey,The Nicon motor mounts seem like a good deal.I’m not familiar with them though.I would definitely get two new ones in any case.Personally I saved up and ended up with aluminum poly bushing motor mounts from RX8 Performance and couldn’t be happier.

 

I've ordered the Nicon mounts, since I won't have to have my car standing with no mounts for over a week. The delivery time is approx. 2 weeks to Poland. Upon further research, it's a Russian company, and to, I guess not be completely blocked by sanctions, they have a warehouse in Orlando, FL from which they send the parts.
I guess the delivery will be from the US then. They also responded to my message to them on Facebook fairly quickly. I will make sure to update about the new mounts when they arrive and I mount them.

 

Fixed!!! A new clutch (not even Exedy, some cheaper brand, Ashika) has fixed ALL gearbox issues.

As a bonus, I also regenerated my starter motor (weakest version), and changes ignition wires to new NGK (I believe old ones were leaking electricity somewhere) and look at these beautiful cold and hot starts now:


The new wires also stopped the car from being jerky at low rpm's, and it's now far less prone to stalling

 

Congratulations on the issues bet fixed!!!! They’ll be more!Preventive medicine can allow you to enjoy your 8 for years to come.Happy Rotaring