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Fresh rebuild car won't start anymore or wont idle any ideas

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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 11:04 PM
  #1  
alj_95's Avatar
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Fresh rebuild car won't start anymore or wont idle any ideas

Quick introduction, Im new to the rotary scene but not new to cars or engines. I bought a fresh rebuild car recently and PO stated that he has recently rebuilt it and it has less than 20 miles on the rebuild. He also said the car has been street ported, done by a shop in Tampa, and the car has a cold air intake and full header back exhaust. He was also very adamant that the car really needs to be driven so the new apex seals can wear into the housing. I've gotten all the recipes that from the rebuild. He used the Atkins black satin apex seal kit in the rebuild, which I'm skeptical of.
so upon buying the car he started it, it smoked up and we went on a short test drive. Loaded it up onto my trailer n i headed home. I started it unloaded it then left it idling while ohh parked the trailer about 10-15 mins. When I went to park the car I stalled it. After that i haven't got it to start on it's own via the starter. I got it started by pushing it n took it for a drive, the car feels great but does immediate if I let the rpms drop under 1k.
I have a p0661 code and a p2259. I've replaced the coils and spark plugs since I got the car. I even did a compression test but with a piston test kit. Each rotor face was even but the highest combined compression for both rotors were 60psi per housing. Sorry for the long read but I just want the it to be informative.
thanks in advance 🍻

Last edited by alj_95; Sep 24, 2018 at 11:13 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 11:16 PM
  #2  
200.mph's Avatar
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From: BALLS DEEP
you could have flooded it but if your highest reading on a rotor face is 60psi the rebuild was likely botched. did the po build it himself? what parts were replaced in the engine. its not abnormal for a break in period to increase the compression but 60psi is extremly low to start with. i would get a rotary specific comp test. again it sounds like someone fucked up a rebuild
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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 11:24 PM
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alj_95's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
you could have flooded it but if your highest reading on a rotor face is 60psi the rebuild was likely botched. did the po build it himself? what parts were replaced in the engine. its not abnormal for a break in period to increase the compression but 60psi is extremly low to start with. i would get a rotary specific comp test. again it sounds like someone fucked up a rebuild
When I initially stall it that's what I figured, but since then i tried all the different deflood methods and still nothing. Yes he said he did it himself, which I'm not against.
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Old Sep 24, 2018 | 11:27 PM
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From: BALLS DEEP
what parts were replaced? just the seals? were they pre cut? were the housings and irons speced and or replaced? lots of unknowns. get a rotary comp test and sorry to say but it sounds like a proper rebuild is in your future
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 08:03 AM
  #5  
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Atkin apex seal having bad reputation for quality control. This should be main suspect.
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 08:17 AM
  #6  
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From: 2017 Miata RF Launch Edition
What 200 said.
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Old Oct 22, 2019 | 07:51 AM
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From: Croatia Zagreb
Drive the car for 600miles and then it will be ok, but not excellent. The rebuild was probably taken with old housings and side plates. Common to gain compression with driving it for about 1600miles. If not the rebuild is crapy.
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