KaLiKoStreet

Just bought a 04 rx8 about a week ago (02/11/2014) so I'm new to the rotary engines. I started browsing this site a few days before I bought the car just to see what I was getting in to. I love the car, I live in sc and I drove the car to daytona in florida and wasn't dissapointed with it.

A little history of the car:
2004
6 speed
95,000 miles
Metallic Blue (not sure of the exact shade/name)
Black stock mazda 18inch rims
Has a salvaged title but mazda dealership nor I can find out why

It does seem to have a hard starting problem but after the 200 threads I've read on here about that problem I went ahead and changed all the plugs, wires, and coils. Previous owner said he put a new battery in and the sticker on it says from november 2013. I have started premixing. Useing 93-98 octane gas. Changing the parts I did have seem to make a difference but it still seems to have a hard time starting. It'll start almost every time, just have to hold the key to were its turning over for about 4-6 seconds then it will crank. I have read about the causes and all about this so instead of going ahead and spending $1400 on a rebuild kit or waisting $350 on a starter I may not need, I'm sitting at the mazda dealership right now have the whole car gone over. Hope me the best of luck Names Corey by the way, will post some pics up soon.

Junkman 6394226

Did you get the upgraded start motor?

Edit: Oh wait, just read the starter line in your post. Anyways, it helped my hot start problem.

Junkman 6394226

Also, welcome! Hurry up on them pictures!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hopefully you are there for a compression test, anything else gets expensive to have a dealer diagnose/troubleshoot. A compression test will tell you the health of the starter and engine, which are the two big points in question at the moment.

KaLiKoStreet

Yeah I mainly came up here to have the compression and the starter checked. I'm praying its just the starter, the car doesn't seem to be sluggish or missing power after its starts, its just starting that bothers me. Luckily for me my wifes godparent works at one of the mazda dealerships near me so he can knock a little off the price. I talked to advance auto about what's the most powerfull starter they had and they said they had a bosch one that was around $350 but they didn't know the amps/turning rpms. You guys know of a part number I could look at for the bosch starter or recommend a good name brand.

RotoryVirgin

http://www.mazparts.com/en/rx8-start...em-n3z1-18-400

KaLiKoStreet

Bad news it seems, compression reading for front rotor is 4.5, 5.4, 4.9 Rear rotor is 5.6, 5.4, 5.3. From what I've read it seems like this motor shouldn't be running at all with these numbers but it feels like a very strong motor other then cranking...they however said the starter was ok but didn't say what rmps it was turning...putting a stronger starter on would just be a waist now it seems right?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, even if the numbers get normalized up, you have a 0.9 difference between two faces on the front rotor, which is a pretty big problem.

Compression chart: https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...4/#post4533734

That 4.5 fails no matter how much it's normalized.


It's why we recommend getting that compression test before purchase.

KaLiKoStreet

Well what's my best option on a rebuild kit. I found a few ones that looks like its mainly apex seals and main internal seals for about $700 and then there's another for about $1200 that has like double the stuff. What's the absolute things to change to bring compression up for these motors? I've rebuilt v8s, v6s, and i4s but the rotory engine is new to me. Seems like it'd be a good learning experience...and I gave 4k for the car so putting another $1200 into it don't seem that bad to end up with pretty much a brand new car and motor when I'm done.

Atleast its looks good anyway...if nothing else I got a good looking yard orniment

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Frankly, if you do a $1,200 rebuild now, you will be looking at another $1,200 rebuild every few thousand miles.

At 95,000 miles on the original engine (making that assumption) and with compression scores that bad, you will likely be unable to keep much of anything in the engine. Housings will have lots of chrome missing, the bearings on the e-shaft will probably have copper showing, the irons will be scored too deeply, and the rotors spring surfaces will probably be worn in. Sure, you could still rebuild it, but it's likely to end up costing you more than just a replacement engine.

Your cheapest professional rebuild option is Rotary Resurrection in TN, but I'm basing the above statements on his opinion here, so you won't hear much different of a story. The cheapest replacement engine is from Mazmart in Atlanta GA, at about $3,300 for a reman engine, plus shipping plus $1,000 core charge that gets refunded when you send them your engine (or presumably not charged if you get your engine to them first)

KaLiKoStreet

Well that's sort of bad news...is there at all anyway possible that the starter isn't turning atleast 200rpms and causing the compression to be low? Putting a new upgraded starter would have to bring the number up right? Even if for a short time...the paper the dealer gave me just says, "starter is ok" no where does it say what rpms its turning nor what the rpms where for the compression test. When I replaced the wires, coils, and plugs I can for sure say I felt a difference, it does start a lot better in the cold now then it did. To bad these cars aren't more popular around here. Finding one at lkq and with all engines there being $250 would be a great find.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

See the chart in my link. Even at 170rpms, 4.5 is failing. Upgrading the starter to a ~300rpm one would help you out for now, just like the ignition, but it isn't going to repair lost compression. Your engine simply doesn't have much life left in it at all. I'd probably place a bet of "within 10,000 miles" you won't be able to start it at all, but that is a guess based on an assumption that your starter is around the 250rpm normalization mark. If your starter is faster, you probably have less time. If it's slower, you might have more.

You should bug them for the RPM, or the info on whether or not the test results were normalized to 250rpm. It's part of the test scores that you paid for, it's your right to have them.

pistonhater

To rebuild your engine you need waaaaaaaaaaay more than $1,200.00

Based on your descriptions, you would need a master rebuild kit (the expensive one). With your mileage you want to replace ALL seals, gaskets, springs, etc.

Then you need to worry about hardware. At almost 100K miles, there is no doubt you will need to replace the rotor housings for sure. That's another $1,500.00 for the pair or so.

The irons, rotors, bearings, e-shaft, etc, might need replacement depending on their condition. Add money to that as well.

At this point you are already over 3 grand easily.

KaLiKoStreet

Well seeing as this engine is pretty much shot, I'm just going to keep driving it until it dies then go from there. Its not my daily driver so it may last me a little while. Here's a few pics I took...

kevinande

Nice color, I really like blue, but have never purchased a blue car. That sucks man. Well just drive it until you can't drive it anymore, and save up for a rebuild.

KaLiKoStreet

Haven't been on here in a while but my engine did lock up back in June of 2014 so here it is almost tax time and time for a new engine. First time the doors have been opened in 6 months

KaLiKoStreet

Think I am going to go with a new/reman engine from the dealership. Was told it'd be in the $3500 range. Does that sound about right or should I look at other options? The engine right now is locked up, it cant even be hand turned with a breaker bar so I'm sure its probably destroyed inside. Anyone know what comes with a crate engine? Is it just the engine from intake to oil pan with no accessories? Anything I should know?