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Dun goofed by OMP

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Old 08-20-2018, 06:27 PM
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OH Dun goofed by OMP

So long story short,

awhile ago when I had the engine rebuilt by rotatory resurrection, while I had the engine out, I thought it would be a great idea to install a sohn adapter.

Ever since that time, I've had a leak from my OMP. Tonight, while attempting to remedy the leak and putting the plastic oil lines back on, I manged to cross thread one of the bolts that connect from the plastic tube to the OMP. I tried to get it out, but the bolt head also broke off (It takes little to no force to break these bolts). Anyways I was hoping to get some advice from someone with more experience than me, can these nuts be tapped or am I fucked and I just need to get a used OMP?
Old 08-21-2018, 08:58 AM
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You cross-threaded and then broke the head off of one of the banjo bolts?

Honestly, even if you can...
  • drill out that hole
  • tap it
  • find a larger banjo bolt
  • fit the OMP lines to that larger banjo bolt
  • make sure no metal chips get into the OMP system
... you have to ask yourself if it's really worth it to take that risk with such a critical lubrication system. You just got the engine rebuilt, take proper care of it.

You're going to be better off getting a used OMP from LKQ or somebody who's doing a non-rotary swap.
Old 08-21-2018, 11:11 AM
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Are you sure that you cross-threaded it and not just over-torqued it? I'd try extracting the bolt without damaging the pump body, then assess the pump threads. A new banjo bolt can be obtained easy enough. Otherwise, you are likely going to have to replace the OMP.
Old 09-29-2018, 09:00 PM
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Were you able to get this fixed?
Old 09-30-2018, 01:37 PM
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Naw, I just took the advice from these guys and got a replacement from a crashed 54k donor.

There was something wrong with the top nut of the 3 bolts that hold in the OMP, that's why it was leaking. The bolt just kept turning and wouldn't take any torque. Anyways, I red necked it and just put some cut copper braided wire into the nut, and it held the torque well enough to keep a seal. I didn't see much of an alternative otherwise I would have had to take the engine out and retap the nut.
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