Dealer says they think I need a new computer for my 2004
ECM needs replacement according to the dealer, though admittedly he is guesstimating this is the issue.
CEL flashing at idle, solid when driving. Runs a bit rough, but not horrible. Gas mileage is horrible (like 12 miles and some idling burned through 1/4 tank).
Power seems fine. Coils, wires, plugs all newer and seem okay. Took manifold off, checked solenoids and they seem fine.
So it's basically a process of elimination. He thinks the computer is falsely registering a misfire, and adjusting to compensate essentially for a problem that isn't there, in turn causing the car to ride a little rough and burn through gas.
CEL flashing at idle, solid when driving. Runs a bit rough, but not horrible. Gas mileage is horrible (like 12 miles and some idling burned through 1/4 tank).
Power seems fine. Coils, wires, plugs all newer and seem okay. Took manifold off, checked solenoids and they seem fine.
So it's basically a process of elimination. He thinks the computer is falsely registering a misfire, and adjusting to compensate essentially for a problem that isn't there, in turn causing the car to ride a little rough and burn through gas.
ECU failures are extremely rare. You don't work by process of elimination, you trouble shoot. I know you are new to this but a qualified tech should not be.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Mar 23, 2017 at 04:46 PM. Reason: spelling
Either way, I'm dealing with a pissed off wife.
I mean they have to justify the work they are doing and so they would have to provide any information they have that leads to the ECU being bad. The factory service manual has procedures for this stuff, if they just go at it ***** nilly then they will have a hard time proving up their work.
But I would have to know what exactly they say they did before we can know what the whole story is.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html
But I would have to know what exactly they say they did before we can know what the whole story is.
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0016.html
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Mar 23, 2017 at 04:52 PM.
Thanks everyone. I'm going to get it back and figure out next steps. Further advice would be most welcome! I do have a mechanic I trust, but he doesn't have much experience with this car. Do you guys have a suggested order of things to look at before I drop a fortune on it?
Good idea
We need more info to help, but it should be easy. What check engine code is it reporting? When at idle, what short term and long term fuel trims (stft, ltft) is it reporting? You can those and the code with a $15 OBD bluetooth adapter and the Torque or DashCommand app. Or any mechanic. Does it start well when warm and when cold?
Has the dealer verified ignition coils (even if new) and catalytic converter?
Basically, what all has the dealer done?
We need more info to help, but it should be easy. What check engine code is it reporting? When at idle, what short term and long term fuel trims (stft, ltft) is it reporting? You can those and the code with a $15 OBD bluetooth adapter and the Torque or DashCommand app. Or any mechanic. Does it start well when warm and when cold?Has the dealer verified ignition coils (even if new) and catalytic converter?
Basically, what all has the dealer done?
Good idea
We need more info to help, but it should be easy. What check engine code is it reporting? When at idle, what short term and long term fuel trims (stft, ltft) is it reporting? You can those and the code with a $15 OBD bluetooth adapter and the Torque or DashCommand app. Or any mechanic. Does it start well when warm and when cold?
Has the dealer verified ignition coils (even if new) and catalytic converter?
Basically, what all has the dealer done?
We need more info to help, but it should be easy. What check engine code is it reporting? When at idle, what short term and long term fuel trims (stft, ltft) is it reporting? You can those and the code with a $15 OBD bluetooth adapter and the Torque or DashCommand app. Or any mechanic. Does it start well when warm and when cold?Has the dealer verified ignition coils (even if new) and catalytic converter?
Basically, what all has the dealer done?
Good idea
We need more info to help, but it should be easy. What check engine code is it reporting? When at idle, what short term and long term fuel trims (stft, ltft) is it reporting? You can those and the code with a $15 OBD bluetooth adapter and the Torque or DashCommand app. Or any mechanic. Does it start well when warm and when cold?
Has the dealer verified ignition coils (even if new) and catalytic converter?
Basically, what all has the dealer done?
We need more info to help, but it should be easy. What check engine code is it reporting? When at idle, what short term and long term fuel trims (stft, ltft) is it reporting? You can those and the code with a $15 OBD bluetooth adapter and the Torque or DashCommand app. Or any mechanic. Does it start well when warm and when cold?Has the dealer verified ignition coils (even if new) and catalytic converter?
Basically, what all has the dealer done?
I'll post a screenshot of the service receipt that has the error codes and what they looked at. Advice on next steps is greatly appreciated.
The CEL started flashing only after I revved up around 8k in neutral, and has been flashing while idle ever since.
Also noticed today a faiy strong odor of oil coming off the car when I parked. Tried to check the oil level but the stick was frothy and couldn't get a good read.going to try again in the morning after it's been sitting all night.
So the dealer never checked the MAF sensor from what I can tell. I bought some cleaner from Advanced Auto Parts and sprayed it down after watching a YouTube video on what to do (super easy). I'll start it up tomorrow morning for my drive to work and pray the flashing CEL is fixed this easily.
A flashing CEL is always a misfire. Any chance there is a problem with one of the recently installed coils or ignition components?
edit: noticed the service receipt doesn't mention wires, could have an issue there? Typically people replace the plugs, coils, and wires all at once.
edit: noticed the service receipt doesn't mention wires, could have an issue there? Typically people replace the plugs, coils, and wires all at once.
Quite possible. I'm going through a list of issues and possible reasons posted on a pinned thread in this forum, which said it's possible the MAF could be causing this. For a $8 can, i figured is worth a shot. I think I'll try try the plugs, coils, and wires next I think.
I'm good with computers, but this is my first car that I'm trying to learn how to maintain myself (well... hopefully anyway).
I'm good with computers, but this is my first car that I'm trying to learn how to maintain myself (well... hopefully anyway).
So that code the dealer mentions, P00766 should be P0076. They somehow tested it to be good, but that's a much more common failure than the ECU and would produce random misfire at idle. Perhaps the tech tested the wrong solenoid?
There is the APV, VDI and SSV. In your case I would be look at the APV, but check them all while you're in there. It'll take a bit of wrenching, but there are youtube videos and DIYs of people doing this. If you can check the electronics, great, but replacement solenoids are not that expensive if you want to troubleshoot by throwing parts at it.
Also here's the factory manual the tech was probably following: http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
There is the APV, VDI and SSV. In your case I would be look at the APV, but check them all while you're in there. It'll take a bit of wrenching, but there are youtube videos and DIYs of people doing this. If you can check the electronics, great, but replacement solenoids are not that expensive if you want to troubleshoot by throwing parts at it.
Also here's the factory manual the tech was probably following: http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdarx8/
Last edited by Loki; Mar 29, 2017 at 08:50 AM.
So that code the dealer mentions, P00766 should be P0076. They somehow tested it to be good, but that's a much more common failure than the ECU and would produce random misfire at idle. Perhaps the tech tested the wrong solenoid?
There is the APV, VDI and SSV. In your case I would be look at the APV, but check them all while you're in there. It'll take a bit of wrenching, but there are youtube videos and DIYs of people doing this. If you can check the electronics, great, but replacement solenoids are not that expensive if you want to troubleshoot by throwing parts at it.
Also here's the factory manual the tech was probably following: M A Z D A
There is the APV, VDI and SSV. In your case I would be look at the APV, but check them all while you're in there. It'll take a bit of wrenching, but there are youtube videos and DIYs of people doing this. If you can check the electronics, great, but replacement solenoids are not that expensive if you want to troubleshoot by throwing parts at it.
Also here's the factory manual the tech was probably following: M A Z D A
Did they test the coils? Tech stated he checked the plugs and wires. Just because you replaced them 3k ago doesn't mean anything, new parts fail all the time. And if you cat is bad then it would take a lot less than 3k to kill coils.


