nvoid

Hi guys,

I am looking into getting an 04 for <7k. Would someone please let me know which of these listings give off warning signals?

Mazda RX8 2004

2004 Mazda RX8 GT

2004 Mazda RX8 GT, local, one owner, 102,000 km, very clean, pampered

2005 Mazda RX-8 6-Speed Shinka

2004 Mazda RX-8 GT 61600 KM

Mazda rx-8



I plan to check them out in person this week. Are there any PPI tips you like that are specific to the RX-8?

Thanks in advance!

Loki

iTrader: (1)

This
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

Legot

iTrader: (1)

One thing that I'm not sure is covered in the potential owners thread is that 2006 and older Automatic RX8s have the less powerful four port variant of the Renesis.

Other than being less powerful, the AT models tend to build up carbon deposits more easily since they see consistently lower loads. Furthermore, replacing a 4 port engine is significantly more expensive than replacing a 6 port (rebuilds should be close to the same cost though).

Edit: I always love craigslist ads for these cars.
#1 Says its FWD (All 8s are RWD)
#3 That may be a custom leather interior, but I'm not sure
#4 That is not a Shinka in any way! Not at all. It also seems horrendously overpriced (likely because they're selling it as a Shinka special edition, which it isnt)
#5 Has a bad engine (Hot start issues) Do not buy.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's there

New and Potential Owner's Start Here: 4 port or 6 port, which cars had which? (and it was 2004-2005 ATs that had the 4-port, 2006 ATs got the 6-port)

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest avoiding 04s altogether if you can, unless you're very sure about the engine. Spend a bit more to have an 07 so you have a bit of engine warranty left. Compression test is a must especially in an 04. The 'pampered' one seems to be more trustworthy than the rest, he replaced the ignition and had a comp test recently. That's a point of confidence.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

as an owner of an 04, what Loki said is good advice. Mine has been stellar, only real issue was the CAT, and overheating the trans on the track (they were related). The First $100 stuff really helped in my opinion. But, when I bought it, it was not 10 years old, and the engine only had 20K on it.

Mysterion

Another point that was missed was Beware of "Warranty Available" as quoted by dealers. Don't get me wrong...dealers aren't all crooks and you can often get a decent deal from a dealer particularly if the conditions are in your favor. Such conditions include cars that have been on he lot a long time or seasonal cars at the end of the normally accepted season, both of which dealers will be more than happy to cut a deal on to turn over the inventory. However, keep your wits about you and NEVER jump at a deal without fully checking the car out FULLY first. Make sure you get a compression test. A dealer with nothing to hide may even subsidize that test, if not pay for it outright in order to make the sale. Also, get a carproof/carfax to check out whether the car was ever crashed or or otherwise reported as salvage. Another trick is to take down the VIN and call the local Mazda dealer and ask them nicely to run the VIN to check for warranty and recall work done. Lastly and most important, remember that YOU are the customer and don't be afraid to walk away if *anything* doesn't meet your approval.

gwilliams6

A case in point. Some of us Philly area RX8 folks just had a meet yesterday at a host member's auto shop where some of the new guys with recently bought used 04s MTs got compression tests done. Some engines were borderline ok, one was seriously dead and could not be driven away. We are all helping our newer Philly members get rebuilds and replacement engines so they can keep the cars that have grown to love .

But yes I would stay away from any used 04s with high mileage original engines, especially since none of our new 04 owners had gotten a compression test before their purchase. Too many folks knowingly or unknowingly are unloading poor quality used 04 and 05 Rx8s onto unsuspecting buyers who fall in love with the car only to quickly find out they have serious issues and expenses ahead to keep them running.

I wish there was a better way to get the word out BEFORE PURCHASE for folks to get those engines compression checked along with checking a host of other critical items like cooling systems, ignition systems, exhausts, cats etc. We all love this car and I really hate to see disappointed new owners who "just want to have a great sports car" at a reasonable used car price. So far all of our newer guys are opting for sticking it out for the long run, and we more experienced members vow to help them all get their rides back in shape, and help keep them running and healthy.

As an original member of the very first RX7 club in America back in 1978, and an RX owner since 1973, I want to say this forum and its members are the best resource and support in the world. Even my great Mazda dealer's very dedicated RX mechanics have gladly learned more than a trick or two from members here.

nvoid

Thanks so much, friends! I spent all of the morning going through that sticky post. It is exhaustive!

I will definitely get a compression test done on the one I consider to buy. I am also leaning towards the "pampered" one. I am also seriously considering this one: 2004 Mazda RX8 GT . Compression test aside, does there seem to be anything wrong with it?

Is it true that the replacement engines were often of inferior quality? Should I stay away from cars with replaced engines?

Also, this is probably a stupid question, but suppose I could have a 2000 Boxster with 209K KM for $7K like this one: 2000 Porsche Boxter

Which would be a more rational decision? I am getting the feeling that there won't be a whole lot of difference in running costs, dependability between the an 04 RX-8 and a 2000 Boxster.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Boxsters blow engines also
I dunno, at 209k a lot more things start to go pear shaped. Cheap sports cars are not really cheap or sporty once you buy them

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The 986 Boxster vs the RX-8:
They have similar handling for similar reasons, and similar chassis refinement.
The Boxster gets the nod for more torque and better mileage
The RX-8 gets the nod for more interior and cargo space
The RX-8 is cheaper to maintain, cheaper to repair, cheaper to insure
Both cars have a history of engine failures due to design flaws in the engine. For the Boxster, it's the IMS (intermediate shaft bearing).
Both cars have their engine failures as a "perceived worse than it really is"
Both cars have specific solutions to prevent premature engine failure
Both cars will have engines die faster if they are just casually driven around
Both cars need to be driven hard, although for entirely different reasons
Both cars need more-regular oil changes, for similar reasons, though the Boxster's oil pan is 9qt, the RX-8's is 4qt.
The RX-8's engine is ~$5,000 to replace with a known-good one
The Boxster's engine is ~$25,000 to replace with a known-good one
The RX-8 is easy to work on with basic tools, very few special tools needed anywhere
The Boxster requires lots of special tools, and isn't easy to work on.


I very very much enjoyed the two Boxster's I drove. I wasn't expecting to like the engine, but I loved it. It has all the chassis refinement of the RX-8, along with a similarly smooth engine that also sounded fantastic. But the RX-8 wins on all points where practicality is important, and all but gas mileage where cost is important.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, the value goes up with a replaced engine, not down. The quality of the engine is hit or miss of course, but if I had the option of a low compression original factory engine with 50,000 miles a good compression reman with 50,000 miles, guess which I'd pick?

It's ALL in the compression test. If it scores good, go with it. If it scores bad, don't. The mileage and engine builder/rebuilder doesn't really matter.

The only caviate is that Mazda remans often kill their car's cooling system with sealant sludge from excess used when building the engine, so if you get one with a new engine with less than ~15,000, make sure that either the radiator and thermostat were replaced, or the entire system flushed thoroughly between 1,000 miles and 5,000 miles after installation. Flushing immediately doesn't help much, since it needs heat cycling to really start breaking off the excess sealant. Too many replacement engines failed from early cooling system failure because of that sealant.

nvoid

Thanks for that detailed list. That was very helpful!

I am leaning heavily towards this one: 2004 Mazda RX8 GT even though its a automatic. It is only 5300 now, and I think I need more in the bank to use for maintenance and running costs.

What does this mean though? I won't be using the car to commute much, since I live close to my workplace (which is on a mountain).

Thanks. I'll keep this in mind also.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It means to not lug it around at low RPMs all the time, use full throttle regularly, have fun with the car. Note that you can hit high RPM even at lower speeds, I don't mean just driving it really fast. If you drive like a grandma all the time, both cars will have their engines fail relatively fast. The RX-8 for carbon choking, the Boxster because the IMS bearing doesn't get enough oil at low RPM.

nvoid

of course. Thanks, I can manage that.