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Clogged Cat 8

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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 12:11 AM
  #26  
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So what's the plan?
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Old Dec 20, 2015 | 07:46 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CMRine04
Sorry for the late response again. I put some octane booster in it and it's been driving just fine. The check engine light did go off for about 5 days but it came back on again after I drove the car back home. Maybe it's just the coils not sending a good spark and not all the fuel burning, I really don't know. There isn't a loss of power anywhere in the rev range, it revs from idle to 9k just fine with no hesitation. However, it does seem to take a few more seconds to start once the car is warm which I'm thinking is the coils if I'm correct.
So did you gut the cat or not?
If you didn't, you will shorten the life of the engine, if it's not already dying.
Hot start issues are a classic sign of bad compression.
You need to get a rotary specific compression test
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 05:50 PM
  #28  
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I got a question will it hurt my 8 to gut the converter I live in ky so I don't need testing. I just want to know or if I can just cut the damn thing off and weld a pipe in.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 05:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Morgoth0667
I got a question will it hurt my 8 to gut the converter I live in ky so I don't need testing. I just want to know or if I can just cut the damn thing off and weld a pipe in.
You can, but will get a CEL pop up.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 05:58 PM
  #30  
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For gutting it or cutting it or both. If it both I'm in the market for a good midpipe. Mine is an 04 and I am planning on buying a rebuild kit for when it blows.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 06:13 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Morgoth0667
For gutting it or cutting it or both. If it both I'm in the market for a good midpipe. Mine is an 04 and I am planning on buying a rebuild kit for when it blows.
Both. It's P0420, cat below efficiency code.
You can get an app for a smartphone to clear it.
If you gut it, take the sensor out so you don't damage it, if you weld a pipe, try to replace the bung and screw it back in.
For a midpipe, don't go cheap.
Get the BHR.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 06:16 PM
  #32  
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Thanks man I'm anew owner but I didn't walk into this blind if u have a link to a supplier I would be thankful as well
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Morgoth0667
Thanks man I'm anew owner but I didn't walk into this blind if u have a link to a supplier I would be thankful as well
For the midpipe?
Google BHR.
He's a vendor here. Black Halo Racing.
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #34  
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Also, read the "new and potential owners" and "modding for newbies" stickies in the new members forum. All your questions have been asked and answered many times since the rx8 came out over 10 years ago...
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Old Dec 29, 2015 | 11:27 PM
  #35  
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Does a mid pipe throw a lot of cel codes or takes it down to a few if nothing else is wrong cause I can diagnos my car like 1 time a week to keep u and make sure it's not getting other codes
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 02:37 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Morgoth0667
Does a mid pipe throw a lot of cel codes or takes it down to a few if nothing else is wrong cause I can diagnos my car like 1 time a week to keep u and make sure it's not getting other codes
If you gut it, you will still get the same P0420 code. Unless you have other problems, that should only be the trouble code; you can clear it but it will still come back.
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 03:03 AM
  #37  
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I really think you should read the threads I mentioned. Sounds like you're over your head with diagnosing this car...
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 03:15 AM
  #38  
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One last one this does the 02 fouler mod work or is it a waist of time
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Old Dec 30, 2015 | 03:19 AM
  #39  
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Read!
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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 04:16 PM
  #40  
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That O2 fouler mod works depending on your model or should I say, the manufactured year. It is said to work on models manufactured 2008 and before. I have a 2008 R3 from England and I had a cat problem myself. The mechanic at the muffler shop disconnected by battery to install a catback exhaust and also decat my clogged cat. Unaware, he reset the ECU and have been running with a CEL until the past month or so. I think I discovered how to manipulate the ECU.
I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and pressed the brake pedal when the engine was cold (first thing one morning). I connected the battery, started the car and allowed the ECU to find its correct A/F ratio by leaving the car to idle for 20 mins. I then switched it off and allowed it to cool for about 4 hours. Later that day I started the car and left it to idle for 20 mins. before switching it off and allowing it to cool again. I repeated that "starting" process about 10 -12 times over that weekend as I had nowhere to go. Since then the car is running just fine with the gutted cat, no 02 fouler mod and no CEL for the past 6 weeks.

Isn't she a beauty?

Last edited by blue magic; Jan 4, 2016 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Adding photos
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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 10:11 PM
  #41  
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She definitely is
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 12:28 PM
  #42  
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Another one here gutting his cat after p0420. Explains the on and off p0302 I had earlier this year.

I thought I was done dealing with rust after selling the jeep. What are the RX8club secrets to dealing with the 3 bolts up front and the 2 in the rear on the flanges? No air tools yet and my 110 lb ft impact nor elbow grease and a breaker bar would budge the ones up front. Currently slathered in Naval jelly. I'll give them the torch and quench before I try again. Worst case scenario, I can only cut 2/3 front bolts.

Any input is great.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 05:30 PM
  #43  
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Mine wasn't rusty, so a little PB Blaster worked for me.
A propane torch may be good enough to work.
If you have an acetylene torch with a brazing tip, you should be able to heat them up well enough to break them loose without melting your carpet.
*edit* The quench part is unnecessary imo.
I always had success leaving them hot.

Last edited by BigCajun; Jan 5, 2016 at 05:32 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 12:08 PM
  #44  
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Actually knocked them off right after I posted this. NE winters are cruel. Always curious as to what other people do, though. I usually try and give them a quick turn/impact while they're hot. If they don't budge right away I'll quench. Depending on the bolt sometimes I'll whack it with a hammer a few times along the process, too.

Stripped 2/3 of the front bolts and the third one snapped. Now I get to have the fun of drilling them out. Haven't decided if I want to weld the new ones into place yet.
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