Legot

iTrader: (1)

Hello!

I'm new here, and new to the Rx8, but I've read quite a bit (three times) on pretty much everything that I need to know. I even have a list of the cheaper mods to do that will help it fair better in this ridiculous heat. I haven't bought the car yet, but here's some info on it.

It's a Silver, 2005 MT Rx8 with just under 113k miles for $5200. The engine hasn't been replaced, and there's never been any serious work on it as far as we could tell (backed into a light pole or something in 2011), and it doesn't include the stereo (they're keeping that, but leaving the metra double din kit). The seller seems really nice, apparently the night we drove it they found a nail in one of the rear tires and replaced them both, without raising the price. Right now I think he's looking at replacing the radiator for us (which I would have no problem doing) since the current one has a small crack in it, and the compression test was a good deal cheaper than I thought it would be.

Onto the important stuff. The compression test was done at a Mazda dealership this morning, and here are the results:

Rotor 1 @ 295 rpm
1. 770 kpa
2. 770 kpa
3. 790 kpa

Rotor 2 @ 294 rpm
1. 750 kpa <---------------- The only part I'm worried about.
2. 770 kpa
3. 790 kpa

So what do you guys think? According to this handy chart from the beginners thread they're all in the "good" range, however rotor two is a sticking point. What's with the variation? Is it even possible for each of the three chambers to have a different value, and how would that work (since each face shares a seal with another)? I honestly think that that may be a fault or anomaly in the data.

At this point if nobody chimes in I'll own the car by nightfall. I don't want to be talked out of it, but if the engine is going to fail me immediately after purchase I need to know.

Thanks!

braybern

Someone with more experience than myself should be handling this, but from what I gather the numbers are not that good when you normalize to 250 rpm. That one that you were worried about is definitely out of spec. The other ones are all borderline out of spec if not out already.

braybern

After looking at the chart, your numbers seem to all fall in the yellow/orange range, which is technically passing...Again...someone with more experience to answer your question, but the first chamber is suspect on Rotor 2...

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Charles, I might just do that. Just curious, are you located in AZ? I'm way out here in Gilbert/QC, if the occasion ever arises I'd love to meet you.

Also, it looks like I'm going to be replacing the radiator. It will be ordered immediately after we own the car (tomorrow). I noticed that there are two different radiators listed on Mazmart, an MT and an AT. Are there any particular benefits to using one or the other? Sorry, stupid question

Any other opinions on the CT?

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Got the car this afternoon. It's leaking something off the passenger side. I won't be able to tell what it is until morning, but I'm hoping it's coming from the radiator (new one's already ordered).

It's going onto the ground from the passenger side wheel well, forward of the tire but far enough aft of the oil cooler to make me highly doubt that it is the source of the leak. I know it's not useful without knowing what the substance is, but what else could be leaking that's located in this area?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Could be coolant from a couple of places. .. overflow bottle and rad nipple. .. and rad and heater hoses are all in that area.

Could be oil from the front cover poor OMP seals.

Could be battery acid

Oil from oil cooler hoses. .

Lots of stuff there

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Went under the car yesterday and it was coolant so it will be fixed at the same time as the radiator.

Found a substantial amount of water in the driver side tail light, so that fix is curing right now. I also discovered that a few things are missing from the car, none terrible but each surprising. There's no cabin air filter installed, there are no aft oil cooler covers (the ones inside the wheel well), there's no engine cover, and there's no underbody shield. Minor things, but somewhat strange...

I did a hardwired slow-speed fan mod (to keep the fans on when the car is on), that took about 5 minutes. I was going to do the intake box baffle/screen removal but I couldn't get the damn thing off!

Anyway, this is turning into more of a new car journal thing...

blckninja

iTrader: (1)

Yep, welcome to the club.

Everything other than the engine cover I would get. If you're worried about coolant temps get the large splash shield first, will help force air through the radiator and help keep temps a little more under control.

Also for the compression test braybern is right. The current test on your engine shows the rotors will start failing shortly. How short that is I don't know. Could be a couple years or couple months.

Legot

iTrader: (1)

As for the underbody shield I'm looking for one asap, were going to check a wreck yard for one first, and if here are none there we'll just buy it new or find someone on this forum that's doing a part out. I can confirm it's running hot @ 104c at a standing idle (fans off).

Today was the first day I really drove the car anywhere and it's soooooooooo nice! I'm not driving it too too hard on account of not being able to cool it properly, but it's just ridiculous how smooth this car is.

On another note, I got the rare, hand typed, email from the Amazon people saying that the radiator we ordered is being recalled by the manufacturer (as of shopping date) due to fitment issues, so that has to wait even longer than planned. Hopefully we'll get the next one by Friday.