car wont start after driving
05-11-2017, 07:43 AM
#26
Water Foul
This thread veered waaaaaaaaaay off topic!
I have the HH series radiator in my RX-8. It is better than OE in terms of recovery times, which means my average temps are lower. It is only barely better than OE at holding down peak temps. Obviously, it will outlast the OE radiator by many years, so it was a good reliability mod.
I have the the Hyper V series radiator in my Miata. It is a much better design, and is thinner and lighter. Deltas in average and peak temps between it and the OE radiator are MUCH greater. That car would reach 220F on the track with the OE radiator. In similar conditions, the Koyo holds peak temps to 205F. I'm hoping it performs well enough, that I will not have to upgrade, once I go turbo.
I have the HH series radiator in my RX-8. It is better than OE in terms of recovery times, which means my average temps are lower. It is only barely better than OE at holding down peak temps. Obviously, it will outlast the OE radiator by many years, so it was a good reliability mod.
I have the the Hyper V series radiator in my Miata. It is a much better design, and is thinner and lighter. Deltas in average and peak temps between it and the OE radiator are MUCH greater. That car would reach 220F on the track with the OE radiator. In similar conditions, the Koyo holds peak temps to 205F. I'm hoping it performs well enough, that I will not have to upgrade, once I go turbo.
05-11-2017, 10:07 AM
#27
I replaced my N3Z1 with another N3Z1. Identical starters, but the old one was simply worn and turned at a lower RPM. Definitely helped with starts. Additionally, if your battery is dead, you simply lack the voltage to make everything operate to a certain extent. I drive around with a dead battery, and I have starting issues. Basically it only starts when the engine gets to 400rpm and then release the key. It takes another second around the 400rpm mark and then shoots to 1500rpm.
The engine isn't dead, when I roll it down a hill at 10km/h, which would translate to roughly 300 rpm when I hit it in 6 and release the clutch, the engine starts immediately (release and reapply clutch, it won't drive at 300rpm). Yet when the engine cranks 400rpm to start, it takes seconds.
The engine isn't dead, when I roll it down a hill at 10km/h, which would translate to roughly 300 rpm when I hit it in 6 and release the clutch, the engine starts immediately (release and reapply clutch, it won't drive at 300rpm). Yet when the engine cranks 400rpm to start, it takes seconds.
05-12-2017, 12:21 AM
#28
Registered
This thread veered waaaaaaaaaay off topic!
I have the HH series radiator in my RX-8. It is better than OE in terms of recovery times, which means my average temps are lower. It is only barely better than OE at holding down peak temps. Obviously, it will outlast the OE radiator by many years, so it was a good reliability mod.
I have the the Hyper V series radiator in my Miata. It is a much better design, and is thinner and lighter. Deltas in average and peak temps between it and the OE radiator are MUCH greater. That car would reach 220F on the track with the OE radiator. In similar conditions, the Koyo holds peak temps to 205F. I'm hoping it performs well enough, that I will not have to upgrade, once I go turbo.
I have the HH series radiator in my RX-8. It is better than OE in terms of recovery times, which means my average temps are lower. It is only barely better than OE at holding down peak temps. Obviously, it will outlast the OE radiator by many years, so it was a good reliability mod.
I have the the Hyper V series radiator in my Miata. It is a much better design, and is thinner and lighter. Deltas in average and peak temps between it and the OE radiator are MUCH greater. That car would reach 220F on the track with the OE radiator. In similar conditions, the Koyo holds peak temps to 205F. I'm hoping it performs well enough, that I will not have to upgrade, once I go turbo.
I hope mine will last long, infinity and beyond!! Amen!
Colo_lady(OP) needs help with her drown 8. It's in another thread
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...-water-265212/
05-12-2017, 12:24 AM
#29
Registered
I replaced my N3Z1 with another N3Z1. Identical starters, but the old one was simply worn and turned at a lower RPM. Definitely helped with starts. Additionally, if your battery is dead, you simply lack the voltage to make everything operate to a certain extent. I drive around with a dead battery, and I have starting issues. Basically it only starts when the engine gets to 400rpm and then release the key. It takes another second around the 400rpm mark and then shoots to 1500rpm.
The engine isn't dead, when I roll it down a hill at 10km/h, which would translate to roughly 300 rpm when I hit it in 6 and release the clutch, the engine starts immediately (release and reapply clutch, it won't drive at 300rpm). Yet when the engine cranks 400rpm to start, it takes seconds.
The engine isn't dead, when I roll it down a hill at 10km/h, which would translate to roughly 300 rpm when I hit it in 6 and release the clutch, the engine starts immediately (release and reapply clutch, it won't drive at 300rpm). Yet when the engine cranks 400rpm to start, it takes seconds.
How much did u purchase that N3Z1?
05-12-2017, 06:00 AM
#31
For like 70 bucks. Brand ALANKO. Turns the engine 280-290rpm'ish. 400-500 more than the original 2kw.
05-12-2017, 06:03 AM
#32
Registered
Can't get it in Indonesia, any tips? Shipping aint easy and still need to pay import tax which could cost more than the $70 product depending on the warden's mood or something.
05-12-2017, 02:19 PM
#33
40th anniversary Edition
Looking Good guy ! Yes that is different part number than mine. I am sure all will be good with yours.
Sorry we can't just "like" posts anymore.
That key is gone, go figure ?
Sorry we can't just "like" posts anymore.
That key is gone, go figure ?
Last edited by gwilliams6; 05-12-2017 at 02:21 PM.
05-21-2017, 05:11 PM
#35
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I need some help!
I recently bought a Mazda RX8 2006 run 53000 miles. Engine rebuilt at 44000 miles
It ran good until I put 2liters of excess engine oil in it..the car wouldn't start...I got some help from a local mechanic and got the excess oil drained, throttle body and intake cleaned and he suggested to run it for a good distance..after that the engine went off when I took my leg off the throttle...tried starting it a few time but it dint...had to wait for 15 minutes and then it started..the engine check signal is on and the engine shuts itself off when hot and doesn't start till let to cool for 15 minutes and dies if I don't keep the revs high..starts perfectly when it's cold..I don't know what the issue is..I need some help here!
It ran good until I put 2liters of excess engine oil in it..the car wouldn't start...I got some help from a local mechanic and got the excess oil drained, throttle body and intake cleaned and he suggested to run it for a good distance..after that the engine went off when I took my leg off the throttle...tried starting it a few time but it dint...had to wait for 15 minutes and then it started..the engine check signal is on and the engine shuts itself off when hot and doesn't start till let to cool for 15 minutes and dies if I don't keep the revs high..starts perfectly when it's cold..I don't know what the issue is..I need some help here!
05-22-2017, 05:00 AM
#36
40th anniversary Edition
Vedanth, Read this thread first: You need to educate yourself to some things that maybe a non RX8 tech might not fully grasp. We also need to know what engine code you are getting. Can you get that read ?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Generating Power at Full Throttle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Air Filter
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
************************************************** *********************************************
Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure
Owning an RX8 requires more knowledge, so read this too, if you haven't already:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
Generating Power at Full Throttle
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Air Filter
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)
************************************************** *********************************************
Engine Power Loss
• chokes as revs increase
o O2 sensor failure (too rich)
o MAF failure
o MAF disconnected
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
o Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
o Ignition failure
o fuel pressure loss
o e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
o Catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
o Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
o O2 sensor failure (too lean)
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
o Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
o Ignition failure
o front O2 sensor failure
o catalytic converter clog
o air filter clog
o e-shaft sensor fouled
o fuel pressure loss
o MAF failure
Owning an RX8 requires more knowledge, so read this too, if you haven't already:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
Last edited by gwilliams6; 05-22-2017 at 05:31 AM.
05-23-2017, 02:53 AM
#37
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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Hi Guys, I've my 2004 manual rx8 for nearly 11 years now, had my engine rebuilt 46k miles ago (4 years ago) due to the hot start issues. I've also found this forum great over the years to solve minor issues. Just replaced my coils and spark plugs last week and she's running allot smoother but the power is still not great below 6,250rpm (more sluggish when pushed hard), above 6,250rpm she just takes off like a bullet. Occasionally she gives me some hot start issues but not all the time. Should I be getting a compression test done given the great power above 6,250rpm or what else should I be looking at? I'll check engine management code within next 2 weeks to see if anything else is on in there. I hope to keep the car for another couple years as I like her.
