Battery Relocation, or Rear Mount Battery
11-25-2013, 12:07 PM
#26
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Rite of passage. 
That looks way nicer than the battery-in-the-trunk on my first car, an Alfa Romeo Guilietta. Conventional lead-acid battery (this was before maintenance free). I don't recall any hold downs. It just sat in a corner of the trunk, pretty much held in place by gravity. And that was factory stock.
Ken
That looks way nicer than the battery-in-the-trunk on my first car, an Alfa Romeo Guilietta. Conventional lead-acid battery (this was before maintenance free). I don't recall any hold downs. It just sat in a corner of the trunk, pretty much held in place by gravity. And that was factory stock.
Ken
11-25-2013, 12:48 PM
#27
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Wow, the bashing continues. I'll just hit some key points.
1. Battery relocation is not stock. Thus the car becomes less safe. A turbocharged car is not stock either, thus it is less safe as well. My wiring route is just as "safe" as going any other route in the car (i.e. running in the driverside door panel)
2. The "shake" test is similar to lowering a car on jack stands, and shaking it to see if the car is secure. You can also shake test the battery in the stock position under the engine bay. My rear mount battery is more secure than my battery was in the engine bay. Shaking the car is not definite test to see if the battery is secure to handle inertia of driving the car under hard conditions, but it does give me an idea of where I stand.
3. The wires used in all the pictures is battery cable. The ground wire is actually a prefabricated 5' cable right from you local auto parts store.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I just wish it was a bit more constructive, versus just bashing.
1. Battery relocation is not stock. Thus the car becomes less safe. A turbocharged car is not stock either, thus it is less safe as well. My wiring route is just as "safe" as going any other route in the car (i.e. running in the driverside door panel)
2. The "shake" test is similar to lowering a car on jack stands, and shaking it to see if the car is secure. You can also shake test the battery in the stock position under the engine bay. My rear mount battery is more secure than my battery was in the engine bay. Shaking the car is not definite test to see if the battery is secure to handle inertia of driving the car under hard conditions, but it does give me an idea of where I stand.
3. The wires used in all the pictures is battery cable. The ground wire is actually a prefabricated 5' cable right from you local auto parts store.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I just wish it was a bit more constructive, versus just bashing.
11-25-2013, 12:55 PM
#28
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Rite of passage.
That looks way nicer than the battery-in-the-trunk on my first car, an Alfa Romeo Guilietta. Conventional lead-acid battery (this was before maintenance free). I don't recall any hold downs. It just sat in a corner of the trunk, pretty much held in place by gravity. And that was factory stock.
Ken
That looks way nicer than the battery-in-the-trunk on my first car, an Alfa Romeo Guilietta. Conventional lead-acid battery (this was before maintenance free). I don't recall any hold downs. It just sat in a corner of the trunk, pretty much held in place by gravity. And that was factory stock.
Ken
Yeah, I have the battery on my FC just sitting in the rear compartment. Over the years it has just sunk into the sound deadening, and has never moved. (even under hard turns, autocross, and quarter mile track time.
Although, everyone is making some good points. I may look into a more secure battery pan/tray that can bolt down the battery.
11-25-2013, 01:25 PM
#32
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Wow, the bashing continues. I'll just hit some key points.
1. Battery relocation is not stock. Thus the car becomes less safe. A turbocharged car is not stock either, thus it is less safe as well. My wiring route is just as "safe" as going any other route in the car (i.e. running in the driverside door panel)
2. The "shake" test is similar to lowering a car on jack stands, and shaking it to see if the car is secure. You can also shake test the battery in the stock position under the engine bay. My rear mount battery is more secure than my battery was in the engine bay. Shaking the car is not definite test to see if the battery is secure to handle inertia of driving the car under hard conditions, but it does give me an idea of where I stand.
3. The wires used in all the pictures is battery cable. The ground wire is actually a prefabricated 5' cable right from you local auto parts store.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I just wish it was a bit more constructive, versus just bashing.
1. Battery relocation is not stock. Thus the car becomes less safe. A turbocharged car is not stock either, thus it is less safe as well. My wiring route is just as "safe" as going any other route in the car (i.e. running in the driverside door panel)
2. The "shake" test is similar to lowering a car on jack stands, and shaking it to see if the car is secure. You can also shake test the battery in the stock position under the engine bay. My rear mount battery is more secure than my battery was in the engine bay. Shaking the car is not definite test to see if the battery is secure to handle inertia of driving the car under hard conditions, but it does give me an idea of where I stand.
3. The wires used in all the pictures is battery cable. The ground wire is actually a prefabricated 5' cable right from you local auto parts store.
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I just wish it was a bit more constructive, versus just bashing.
No one is bashing you, just pointing out the faults in your install. Grow a pair.
- Please explain why turbocharging a car or relocating the battery makes the car less safe? My battery is an AGM that weighs half of what the stock battery does and is much better at dealing with impacts, etc. My turbo kit does not impact the safety of the car one single bit.
- Your "shake test" is ridiculous and ratchet straps always come loose over time.
- The wire you used is less than ideal. It is not designed to handle the type of heat it will see from the trans (it gets hot, trust me) or exposure to the outside elements (oil, moisture, etc).
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 11-25-2013 at 01:27 PM.
11-25-2013, 01:36 PM
#34
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No one is bashing you, just pointing out the faults in your install. Grow a pair.
- Please explain why turbocharging a car or relocating the battery makes the car less safe? My battery is an AGM that weighs half of what the stock battery does and is much better at dealing with impacts, etc. My turbo kit does not impact the safety of the car one single bit.
- Your "shake test" is ridiculous and ratchet straps always come loose over time.
- The wire you used is less than ideal. It is not designed to handle the type of heat it will see from the trans (it gets hot, trust me) or exposure to the outside elements (oil, moisture, etc).
1. Turbocharging a car makes it faster. Faster = less safe. It is arguable that all modifications from stock CAN be less safe. Or do you drive your car below 3,000 rpms all the time?
2. What is your method of testing stablity of mounted components?
3. Yeah, the wiring could be less than ideal. For my application, it has been my experience that this same type of wire has lasted for what I want to use it for. I'll use it, and you use what you want.
11-25-2013, 02:17 PM
#38
For one, it would be to ensure that any lateral and vertical movement is compensated for.... in your implementation, this is far from the case. (nothing securing the top of the battery down to the chassis .... you know ... like how it was done in the engine bay....)
11-25-2013, 02:18 PM
#39
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I have no need for a testing method. I have a 20lb battery. The metal battery bracket is designed specifically for my battery, for use in a racing application. It is secured to the Chassis via 10.9 grade 12mm bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
If you buy items that are built for a specific use and have already been approved for use by different sanctioning bodies (NHRA, SCCA, NASA, etc) then you don't need come up with your own half assed testing methods.
If you buy items that are built for a specific use and have already been approved for use by different sanctioning bodies (NHRA, SCCA, NASA, etc) then you don't need come up with your own half assed testing methods.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 11-25-2013 at 02:20 PM.
11-27-2013, 11:45 AM
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Lmao.
BTW, the original post states this is a DIY Battery relocation.
If you want to BUY a battery relocation kit, it's your car, do what you want with it.... This thread is aimed at those who want to "do it yourself".
If you want the battery and all the wiring to be installed all on the driverside, have no worries about weight reduction and weight distribution, and don't want any problems with battery mounting... that kit is a great choice.
BTW, the original post states this is a DIY Battery relocation.
If you want to BUY a battery relocation kit, it's your car, do what you want with it.... This thread is aimed at those who want to "do it yourself".
If you want the battery and all the wiring to be installed all on the driverside, have no worries about weight reduction and weight distribution, and don't want any problems with battery mounting... that kit is a great choice.
Never.
11-30-2013, 07:13 AM
#45
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What the hell did I just read? This guy has to be trolling... Right?
You point out most of your mistakes yourself and you're ok with them? Why even post if you already know its a hack job?
Nothing half a$$ed is going to get credit here. Especially when there is already a very proper and informative DIY thread.
/end rant
You point out most of your mistakes yourself and you're ok with them? Why even post if you already know its a hack job?
Nothing half a$$ed is going to get credit here. Especially when there is already a very proper and informative DIY thread.
/end rant
11-30-2013, 11:34 AM
#48
Seems strange that you would spend the time to post a DIY thread and then do it so wrong.
You need to have a breaker or fuse as close to the battery as possible to prevent a direct short that would arc until something caught on fire
You need to BOLT down the battery...nylon straps will not work as they elongate with time and the battery will get loose...not to mention that all the battery has to do is hop up over the strap
Other than that the other issues are small......
If you are really not trolling for a fight...or just plain ignorant or stupid you would listen to the information and fix it
And New members wonder why they are put on a leash for a while
You need to have a breaker or fuse as close to the battery as possible to prevent a direct short that would arc until something caught on fire
You need to BOLT down the battery...nylon straps will not work as they elongate with time and the battery will get loose...not to mention that all the battery has to do is hop up over the strap
Other than that the other issues are small......
If you are really not trolling for a fight...or just plain ignorant or stupid you would listen to the information and fix it
And New members wonder why they are put on a leash for a while
12-03-2013, 12:21 PM
#49
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*facepalm*
The first post states that I made different choices. I pointed out the pros and cons of this style of a rear mount battery, in order for the reader to judge for themselves if they want to use this method or not. I even linked the other DIY thread so they can choose.
I'm not looking for credit.
I'm not telling anyone this is the absolute best way to do this.
This is just a different method or "style". Take it, or leave it.
It works for my application. I stated that I agree that tie downs are not the most stable, and there are better ideas for the hold down...... But the tie downs work. If you are concerned with the safety of the wire shorting out, use a circuit breaker. Mine doesn't have one...... but it works.
And that's just it. The battery rear mount in my car works for exactly what I want it to do. It's always subject to improvement!
The first post states that I made different choices. I pointed out the pros and cons of this style of a rear mount battery, in order for the reader to judge for themselves if they want to use this method or not. I even linked the other DIY thread so they can choose.
I'm not looking for credit.
I'm not telling anyone this is the absolute best way to do this.
This is just a different method or "style". Take it, or leave it.
It works for my application. I stated that I agree that tie downs are not the most stable, and there are better ideas for the hold down...... But the tie downs work. If you are concerned with the safety of the wire shorting out, use a circuit breaker. Mine doesn't have one...... but it works.
And that's just it. The battery rear mount in my car works for exactly what I want it to do. It's always subject to improvement!
12-03-2013, 12:25 PM
#50
Leaving your pants on while you **** is also a different method or "style." You would also be an idiot to think people telling you to take your pants off first are doing it purely for a selfish reason.
The worst thing anyone can do is let you propagate the idea that pooping on yourself is a good way of doing it.
The worst thing anyone can do is let you propagate the idea that pooping on yourself is a good way of doing it.
Last edited by J8635621; 12-03-2013 at 12:29 PM.