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Back in late 2019/early 2020, I was lucky enough to purchase a 2009 S2 for $1500 (that ended up needing plugs/wire/coils). I eventually sold that off to buy a truck. Anyhoo....fast forward to 2021 and I have bought ANOTHER car that doesn’t want to start. A 2011 S2.
PO did maintain the car routinely according to Carfax. One day it dies while driving...towed to dealer. Compression test was good, recommenced motor mount and new ignition components. They brought it home, added cheap amazon coils and new plugs. Ran for some time then died again....and car sat for a year. I bought it and immediately replaced the coils/wires. Put in a new battery and coaxed the car to life. Got it to warm up but only with assistance on the throttle. It through a Cel for lean condition. Wouldn’t idle very well, definitely felt the motor mount vibration, and there was backfiring/smoke out the exhaust.
cat has been gutted, and it is definitely flooding. Going to add new plugs and clean the MAF and go from there.
oh, does anyone know what size bolts hold on the front strut brace to the shock towers and firewall? PO removed brace to work on car but lost them.
Anyway, yes...I am still a glutton for punishment, but a I hope as can save this one!
First thing you should absolutely do is a compression and block test to ensure the engine is still in serviceable condition. Once this is done, you can then move on to reasons why its not working well. Any engine codes?
First thing you should absolutely do is a compression and block test to ensure the engine is still in serviceable condition. Once this is done, you can then move on to reasons why its not working well. Any engine codes?
Mazda did a compression test. One chamber was low but in spec. They only suggested new ignition components and a motor mount. I have the receipt, so I know the PO was being honest. I’m sticking to the cheap stuff for right now. The PO also told me they put new plugs and coils (cheap ebay parts IIRC) and drive it for a month or two then it died suddenly when getting on interstate. Said they deflooded the engine and could get it running but it would keep flooding and die. Only ignition components to replace now are spark plugs. I have an extra set on the shelf for troubleshooting.
with that lean code (P071 I think it was), I will try cleaning the MAF to see if that helps. Ive had the battery disconnect for some time now to help clear out the memory and relearn. When I got it running after the coils/wires, it was doing good until it statted running very rich.
Last edited by Bayou_Flyer; 07-02-2021 at 01:18 PM.
Yes, vacuum leak is on my list of possibilities to check. I did clean the MAF and got nothing. Going to deflood and change plugs next. Looking at the mazda receipt, dealer recommended replacing plugs when the compression was tested. Car drove less than 500 miles after compression test before car died again.
Well, I had to pause working on the RX for a little while, but I got to work on it a little yesterday. Previously I replaced coils and wires and got the car to run with the throttle. It would not idle and was still running very rich. A week ago, I toyed with the car some after charging the battery. I pulled the fuel fuse and deflooded the car, then the car fired and ran a few seconds before dying. Thinking it would run again, I replaced the fuse and the car just floods. A few pops did come from the exhaust, but it is flooding still.
Yesterday, I got a new set of NGK plugs in the mail and changed those. All four plugs were oily, so I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked car with the plugs out and had a lot of fuel mist blowing out. (I’ll note that no amount of oil came out of the plug holes when the plugs were removed). The fuel smelled old, but I did add a few gallons of fresh super unleaded.
Not really sure if this is a fuel issue or an ignition issue. The PO told me it just shut off getting on the interstate…thats when it was towed to Mazda for a compression test (good) and were told to replace ignition components.
1. The PO had a new key card made. Sometimes it works, sometimes not for door locks. Sometimes I can turn the ignition, sometimes it stays locked and I get the “beep beep” and immo symbol. I have been using the physical key consistently. The immo symbol does not light when using physical key.
2. throttle body looks like it has been apart as all four rivets are missing that holds on the electronic part to the throttle. It had a piece of wire through one of the holes holding it together.
The throttle body is the idle control in these cars so if something is wrong with it, the car likely won't idle. They are a bit finicky at the best of times... but usually throw a CEL if they aren't working.
I'm surprised that you don't have any codes??
Yeah…me too on the lack of CEL! I was checking vac lines when I noticed the single janky piece of metal holding it together. I am not one to just throw money at a car…but I dont see how I avoid replacing the TB to rule it out.
Last edited by Bayou_Flyer; 12-13-2021 at 08:17 AM.
I pulled the ESS….it was clean. (I also realized that I only put a gallon of 93 in it….so I added 4 gallons of fresh 93, cranked it a few times with the accelerator to the floor, then it stumbled to life. It did not want to idle, so I had to use the throttle to keep it at 2-3k rpm. I was able to slowly back out of it til 1k rpm. My foot was barely on the throttle at that point. The smoking went from a LOT to none, but As soon as I let off completely…it died. I got it to crank once more after deflooding it, but it had pretty much just flooding out.
I mentioned the throttle body a few posts ago…and its janky piece of wire holding it together. When the key is on, and I depress the accelerator, I can hear the TB move. However, I dont hear it actually open until I have pushed the pedal about half way. When I move the TB plate itself, I hear the TB internals moveme at the same time. Could this be my issue…or is what I am hearing correct for the TB?
I am currently sitting in the car. It is idling, at temp, but it took quite a few attempts and a lot of smoke and popping. After reading the Mazda tsb on hard starts…I unplugged the air pump and have had the best results so far…it hasnt idled this much for this long since I have started on this project. I have my foot slightly on the throttle as I type, as it will die if I let off completely. Also, I do have a CEL but not my Bluetooth scanner. Probably from the air pump, but I’lll check it later. Found a used TB off a 2011, so it is cheap enough to buy for troubleshooting (and cant be any worse visually )…I do not hear it self test when the key was turned on, and the need to keep the throttle pushed with my foot could very well mean it is bad.
Last edited by Bayou_Flyer; 12-28-2021 at 04:18 PM.
Checked codes today…only one:
P0171 System too lean
The CEL came on after I disconnected the air pump and got it running…I just dont recall how warmed up it was before it lit up.
Also, for the throttle body, I do not hear the plate move when I turn the key on. However, while deflooding I heard the plate move when I turned key on with pedal to floor.
That car died while being driven makes me want to look at fuel pump. It does prime when key turned on, but it has 123k miles on it…and would certainly cause engine to die under those conditions. However, my issue seems to be the engine flooding moreso than not getting enough fuel. The lean condition CEL just adds to my confusion.
I bought a used TB from another S2 and put it on today. First, coolant line on bottom wasnt even secured. Second, I removed the wire holding the electronic part to the TB and everything moved and looked clean…no missing teeth on the gears.
I go to reinstall the hose and airbox, and I see that there has been some exciting things going on inside of there….thoughts?
Small update today….I installed the used throttle body, got the car running (poorly and VERY rich) and managed to drive it around the lot for about ten minutes before it stumbled and died.
Because the MAF is heat damaged, and I have the P0171 lean code, it was suggested on my throttle body thread to unplug it and see what happens. I did that, and the car fored up, stabilized at 2000rpm for a short spell, then the idle went down to 750-800. It eventually died but was the best attempt I have had since playing around with the car. It is still flooding but I will see if I can get a cheap MAF before messing with it again. Before I do, though…I think I’ll change the oil since it does smell like fuel has gotten to it at some point. Should help the compression if anything.
I bought a used TB from another S2 and put it on today. First, coolant line on bottom wasnt even secured. Second, I removed the wire holding the electronic part to the TB and everything moved and looked clean…no missing teeth on the gears.
I go to reinstall the hose and airbox, and I see that there has been some exciting things going on inside of there….thoughts
Or perhaps the PO used starting fluid? They sold the car because they gave up trying to get it running. The CEL definitely tells me some (at least) of this IS electrical, causing the car to dump fuel rather than meter it.
A very good way to diagnose the issue is to get the car on live data and read the fuel trims and monitor the oxygen sensor voltages or amperage. This will help you decipher many things about the running condition and what could be wrong.
07-02-2021, 07:46 AM
)…I do not hear it self test when the key was turned on, and the need to keep the throttle pushed with my foot could very well mean it is bad.
