2005 rx8 72000 miles
11-24-2016, 10:16 PM
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2005 rx8 72000 miles
I've had my rx8 for about a year now and it's had no problems until now. Just recently it started having an issue I'm assuming with fuel . Sometimes when I go to accelerate the car will feel like it has no power and it's close to stalling, it begins to make a low exhaust sound and the car sounds like it's about to stall out even though I'm trying to give it gas and it's accelerating. Not too sure what it could be. At first I thought it was my JL audio amp sucking power from the battery but even running the car without the amp on it will still feel like it's losing power or not receiving enough fuel to accelerate. Any suggestions?
11-25-2016, 07:41 AM
#2
You gonna eat that?
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Could be a lot of things.
You could do a proper troubleshooting process, but many times your type of problem is a common failure.
Did you get an OBD scan for trouble codes?
You should get the compression checked, because if that's the problem, you'll waste time and money trying to fix it.
If you don't test the compression, plan on keeping the car, and will rebuild it if needed, then it's ok to replace ordinary maintenance components.
Start with ensuring your battery is good and the connections are clean and tight, and grounds aren't loose or corroded.
Do you have a stock intake?
Check the air filter and intake for oil.
How healthy is the ignition;
coils, plugs, and wires?
If you haven't changed or tested them, do that.
Clean the ESS and MAF sensor, and reset the NVRAM. (20 brake pedal stomp)
Drop the cat if you have one and inspect it.
After all of this, check or replace the fuel pump.
All of these are common issues, easy fixes, and need to be done periodically.
If you still have problems, then you'll need to do a proper troubleshooting procedure.
You could do a proper troubleshooting process, but many times your type of problem is a common failure.
Did you get an OBD scan for trouble codes?
You should get the compression checked, because if that's the problem, you'll waste time and money trying to fix it.
If you don't test the compression, plan on keeping the car, and will rebuild it if needed, then it's ok to replace ordinary maintenance components.
Start with ensuring your battery is good and the connections are clean and tight, and grounds aren't loose or corroded.
Do you have a stock intake?
Check the air filter and intake for oil.
How healthy is the ignition;
coils, plugs, and wires?
If you haven't changed or tested them, do that.
Clean the ESS and MAF sensor, and reset the NVRAM. (20 brake pedal stomp)
Drop the cat if you have one and inspect it.
After all of this, check or replace the fuel pump.
All of these are common issues, easy fixes, and need to be done periodically.
If you still have problems, then you'll need to do a proper troubleshooting procedure.
11-25-2016, 06:29 PM
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I had the compression tested recently and it was only a little lower than normal. Just replaced my spark plugs at the same time as the test. But I'll check the other stuff you suggested and see if it helps
11-25-2016, 10:46 PM
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Ok. Is there an average cost for changin the wires and could? Also I was driving tonight and it didn't happen but I also never went above 50mph nor did I change into 4th gear and just cruised at about 3k rpm. Could that have anything to do with it?
11-26-2016, 08:34 AM
#6
40th anniversary Edition
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
Black Halo Racing Ignition System | Black Halo Racing
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
Also another new option : SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit (around $695)
If you have the present budget for it, I highly recommend getting the BHR coils and wires. They will last the lifetime of your car and are a proven product, well worth the cost.
________________________________________
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
Black Halo Racing Ignition System | Black Halo Racing
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
Also another new option : SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit (around $695)
If you have the present budget for it, I highly recommend getting the BHR coils and wires. They will last the lifetime of your car and are a proven product, well worth the cost.
________________________________________
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-26-2016 at 08:52 AM.
11-27-2016, 07:35 AM
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Not only that, but Charles (Black Halo Racing) has a lifetime warranty on the coils. He stands behind his product, and if need be you can order them with plugs and get it all done in one shot.
Last edited by CelestialGryphon; 11-27-2016 at 07:39 AM.
11-27-2016, 01:15 PM
#8
I think the root cause of coils failing is the OEM bracket. I think water and heat get transferred to the coils from the bracket and over time break down the insulation resistance of the coil, and then it shorts to the bracket.
rx8performance sells a bracket for $79 with cut outs. I am swapping my set up to this after doing research. I think I will also run the duralast coils and rotate them out when they go bad. we'll see how well it works over time, my coils right now are good though, so we'll see.
rx8performance sells a bracket for $79 with cut outs. I am swapping my set up to this after doing research. I think I will also run the duralast coils and rotate them out when they go bad. we'll see how well it works over time, my coils right now are good though, so we'll see.
11-27-2016, 05:24 PM
#9
40th anniversary Edition
Do what you can afford, get the best coils and wires that you can afford. But you should understand, the rotary engine ignition health is critical. You should not just wait until coils go bad and rotate and swap them out. That is a prescription for a failed engine and/or cat, both.
This is not like any piston car and its coils. Without continuous perfectly matched and perfectly performing ignition components, plugs, coils and wires, you can have uneven, and incomplete ignition and combustion in differing parts of your engine. This can damage the engines internal seals and put unburned fuel into your cat converter which can destroy your cat. Then you are looking at thousands of dollars to remedy all this.
The RX8 is not a car to do the cheapest thing that gets you by, maintenance wise. You need to do what is best for the health of your engine and car. We here in the club can help guide you toward saving money, but also help guide you into making the right choices for the long haul, even if the right choice is NOT the cheapest choice every time.
To comment about the heat factor with where the coils are mounted. Yes heat does play a factor in coil life as installed in the stock position in an RX8. For example, the BHR coils are engineered to withstand the heat in the RX8 engine compartment for the lifetime of your car, no problem.
There have been aftermarket brackets designed to get the OEM coils further away from OEM position to help with the heat factor. That certainly is a choice you can make. Just don't cheap out on the quality of your ignition components. Saving a few hundred dollars now could cost you a few thousands dollars later. Best to you !
This is not like any piston car and its coils. Without continuous perfectly matched and perfectly performing ignition components, plugs, coils and wires, you can have uneven, and incomplete ignition and combustion in differing parts of your engine. This can damage the engines internal seals and put unburned fuel into your cat converter which can destroy your cat. Then you are looking at thousands of dollars to remedy all this.
The RX8 is not a car to do the cheapest thing that gets you by, maintenance wise. You need to do what is best for the health of your engine and car. We here in the club can help guide you toward saving money, but also help guide you into making the right choices for the long haul, even if the right choice is NOT the cheapest choice every time.
To comment about the heat factor with where the coils are mounted. Yes heat does play a factor in coil life as installed in the stock position in an RX8. For example, the BHR coils are engineered to withstand the heat in the RX8 engine compartment for the lifetime of your car, no problem.
There have been aftermarket brackets designed to get the OEM coils further away from OEM position to help with the heat factor. That certainly is a choice you can make. Just don't cheap out on the quality of your ignition components. Saving a few hundred dollars now could cost you a few thousands dollars later. Best to you !
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-27-2016 at 05:40 PM.
11-27-2016, 07:25 PM
#10
Do what you can afford, get the best coils and wires that you can afford. But you should understand, the rotary engine ignition health is critical. You should not just wait until coils go bad and rotate and swap them out. That is a prescription for a failed engine and/or cat, both.
This is not like any piston car and its coils. Without continuous perfectly matched and perfectly performing ignition components, plugs, coils and wires, you can have uneven, and incomplete ignition and combustion in differing parts of your engine. This can damage the engines internal seals and put unburned fuel into your cat converter which can destroy your cat. Then you are looking at thousands of dollars to remedy all this.
The RX8 is not a car to do the cheapest thing that gets you by, maintenance wise. You need to do what is best for the health of your engine and car. We here in the club can help guide you toward saving money, but also help guide you into making the right choices for the long haul, even if the right choice is NOT the cheapest choice every time.
To comment about the heat factor with where the coils are mounted. Yes heat does play a factor in coil life as installed in the stock position in an RX8. For example, the BHR coils are engineered to withstand the heat in the RX8 engine compartment for the lifetime of your car, no problem.
There have been aftermarket brackets designed to get the OEM coils further away from OEM position to help with the heat factor. That certainly is a choice you can make. Just don't cheap out on the quality of your ignition components. Saving a few hundred dollars now could cost you a few thousands dollars later. Best to you !
This is not like any piston car and its coils. Without continuous perfectly matched and perfectly performing ignition components, plugs, coils and wires, you can have uneven, and incomplete ignition and combustion in differing parts of your engine. This can damage the engines internal seals and put unburned fuel into your cat converter which can destroy your cat. Then you are looking at thousands of dollars to remedy all this.
The RX8 is not a car to do the cheapest thing that gets you by, maintenance wise. You need to do what is best for the health of your engine and car. We here in the club can help guide you toward saving money, but also help guide you into making the right choices for the long haul, even if the right choice is NOT the cheapest choice every time.
To comment about the heat factor with where the coils are mounted. Yes heat does play a factor in coil life as installed in the stock position in an RX8. For example, the BHR coils are engineered to withstand the heat in the RX8 engine compartment for the lifetime of your car, no problem.
There have been aftermarket brackets designed to get the OEM coils further away from OEM position to help with the heat factor. That certainly is a choice you can make. Just don't cheap out on the quality of your ignition components. Saving a few hundred dollars now could cost you a few thousands dollars later. Best to you !
I own an rx7 FD and spent a lot of money into that car. I am not new to rotaries, but I am new to rx8's.
I really want to drive to WHY the stock ignition coils fail at a pretty alarming rate and in pretty short mileage. The FD coils are obviously a lot different and also sit on top of the engine. but they last over a 100K miles most of the time with no issues.
I know cost savings have been driven into many cars over the years and compromises need to be made to make things cheaper. My question is this.
What is the root cause of the stock ignition coils failing?
I see posts of white spots on the back of ignition coils.
I see this with a number of posts when surfing.
So symptoms are missfires, etc that the ecu throws. We see white spots on the back of OEM coils where they sit on a metal bracket that gets heated. Overtime the insulation resistence breaks down and the ignition coil shorts to the bracket, hence the white spots.
So we have a few options.
we have a metal bracket in contact with the ignition coil and we have heat that breaks down the insulation resistance (gets hot).
My honda civic and ford focus have never had their ignition coils changed and they have over 100K miles on each. They have less heat, and no metal piece contacting the back side of the ignition coil.
I would go out on a limb and say if you remove the contact of the bracket to ignition coil you would eliminate the root cause of the issue. It doesn't heat the coils up as much and you eliminate the possibility of shorting to a metal bracket in one shot. furthermore if you reduce the engine temps of the engine (run cooler) you have an environment where the coils last longer due to less intense heat. Going even a next step would be to route cold air from the front of the vehicle over the coils, or mount coils off the engine, perhaps run a large insulation barrier between the coils and brackets as well, but air is one of the best insulations between things that I know of.
I have oem coils in the car (I think) but I am not sure if duralast has good quality or not. I am not promoting crappy quality, just saying that I think the root cause could e solved through a cheaper better solution of a different bracket. I understand how ignition is important to a rotary engine.
also, get the heat out of the engine, running a cat....no, run a midpipe.
11-27-2016, 11:20 PM
#11
40th anniversary Edition
First of all you can't compare any civic and focus coils with a rotary engine coil. The rotary engine coil has to fire three times as often, and with a stronger spark, all due to the unique combustion chamber physics and dynamics of a rotary engine.
White spots on RX8 coils mean nothing in reality. Many still good coils have white sparks, just as some bad coils exhibit white spots. Do your homework here on this forum about that.
Mazda latest "C" coils seem to last a while longer than the 20-30,000k miles max out of previous OEM coils. Internal construction changes and better materials I am sure have contributed to that. The BHR coils, just for one example, are born from coils that had to exist in even hotter engine compartment environs.
You are not the first to advocate the use of different spacing and brackets to get the coils away from heat. Just remember these brackets also have to be able to survive in the engine compartment, so they can't be made of flimsy materials. Follow the coil threads and find some solutions just like what you propose.
As far as changing the operating temps of the engine, that would call for a radical design change. We might see just those design changes and lower temps in the next RX7/RXVision engine compartment if it comes to fruition. I also owned an FD RX7 and six other rotaries in addition to my RX8, and they all generated a lot of heat. Some had better cooling designs, and some others I upgraded the cooling to accommodate that cars' intended purpose (street or track).
There are all kinds of cooling mods. but save that discussion for other appropriate threads and countless previous posts.
You need to be sure that the coils you use are up to the demands of performance in a rotary engine, and that they will last. Ask here, do some research, and find a solution you can afford and live with.
And not everyone has the luxury of running catless and still pass their state's emissions.
White spots on RX8 coils mean nothing in reality. Many still good coils have white sparks, just as some bad coils exhibit white spots. Do your homework here on this forum about that.
Mazda latest "C" coils seem to last a while longer than the 20-30,000k miles max out of previous OEM coils. Internal construction changes and better materials I am sure have contributed to that. The BHR coils, just for one example, are born from coils that had to exist in even hotter engine compartment environs.
You are not the first to advocate the use of different spacing and brackets to get the coils away from heat. Just remember these brackets also have to be able to survive in the engine compartment, so they can't be made of flimsy materials. Follow the coil threads and find some solutions just like what you propose.
As far as changing the operating temps of the engine, that would call for a radical design change. We might see just those design changes and lower temps in the next RX7/RXVision engine compartment if it comes to fruition. I also owned an FD RX7 and six other rotaries in addition to my RX8, and they all generated a lot of heat. Some had better cooling designs, and some others I upgraded the cooling to accommodate that cars' intended purpose (street or track).
There are all kinds of cooling mods. but save that discussion for other appropriate threads and countless previous posts.
You need to be sure that the coils you use are up to the demands of performance in a rotary engine, and that they will last. Ask here, do some research, and find a solution you can afford and live with.
And not everyone has the luxury of running catless and still pass their state's emissions.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-27-2016 at 11:25 PM.
11-28-2016, 12:56 AM
#12
Coils generate their own heat, which gets worse if/when they start going out of spec. Engine compartment temps could make this worse or kick off the failure process, I feel like ventilation past the coils isn't great, I think has a lot to do with it.
But it's not because our engines run hot, all engines are about 180-200F 99% of the time. Doesn't matter if it's a Civic or an FD, no part that's not exhaust gets hotter than that. At the coil's location it really doesn't care what EGTs are, because it's outside the water jacket.
The rotary coil doesn't need to fire 3 times as often: 3 ignition events per rotor revolution, 1/3 of a rotor revolution per crank revolution, works out to one spark per engine revolution, same as a piston engine coil with a waste spark setup or twice as fast an individual coil per cylinder setup.
So I think it's valid to compare to a Civic or a Focus, what's probably different is the amount of cool air available to cool the coils in our cars.
But it's not because our engines run hot, all engines are about 180-200F 99% of the time. Doesn't matter if it's a Civic or an FD, no part that's not exhaust gets hotter than that. At the coil's location it really doesn't care what EGTs are, because it's outside the water jacket.
The rotary coil doesn't need to fire 3 times as often: 3 ignition events per rotor revolution, 1/3 of a rotor revolution per crank revolution, works out to one spark per engine revolution, same as a piston engine coil with a waste spark setup or twice as fast an individual coil per cylinder setup.
So I think it's valid to compare to a Civic or a Focus, what's probably different is the amount of cool air available to cool the coils in our cars.
11-28-2016, 08:02 AM
#13
40th anniversary Edition
Ok Loki, it is not really three times as often, but with the higher normal rev rpm that rotaries live at they do fire more than a piston engine coil per cylinder vs per rotary face.
An I-4 engine fires twice per spark plug per one e-shaft revolution, a V-6 fires 3 times, etc., if I am correct here. For every complete rotation of a rotor in a rotary engine the coils fire each spark plugs 3 times .(one time for each face of the rotor) And there are 2 plugs per rotor (leading and trailing), that is six total spark plug firings per complete rotor revolution. 12 times total firings per complete rotation of both rotors. The shaft turns 3 times for each rotation of the rotor around the lobe and once for each orbital revolution around the eccentric shaft.
The point being a rotary engine coil does do more average work that a similar civic or focus engine coil.
I agree with those here that feel that the proximity of our coils to the top of the engine is a contributing factor in their life. In my rotary history, especially my race rotaries, moving the coils away from the engine heat did extend their life. But coils are out there, like the BHR designed and born of heavier duty coils made to withstand both the engine proximity heat and the coils' own high discharge internally generated heat.
An I-4 engine fires twice per spark plug per one e-shaft revolution, a V-6 fires 3 times, etc., if I am correct here. For every complete rotation of a rotor in a rotary engine the coils fire each spark plugs 3 times .(one time for each face of the rotor) And there are 2 plugs per rotor (leading and trailing), that is six total spark plug firings per complete rotor revolution. 12 times total firings per complete rotation of both rotors. The shaft turns 3 times for each rotation of the rotor around the lobe and once for each orbital revolution around the eccentric shaft.
The point being a rotary engine coil does do more average work that a similar civic or focus engine coil.
I agree with those here that feel that the proximity of our coils to the top of the engine is a contributing factor in their life. In my rotary history, especially my race rotaries, moving the coils away from the engine heat did extend their life. But coils are out there, like the BHR designed and born of heavier duty coils made to withstand both the engine proximity heat and the coils' own high discharge internally generated heat.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-28-2016 at 06:03 PM.
11-28-2016, 07:20 PM
#14
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Well I cleaned the MAF sensor, my air intake, my ESS, and I had a compression test done (between 6.6 and 6.8), and my fuel pressure is fine. Still can't find anything wrong with it and I'm not sure where to look now. I ordered new coils, spark plugs, and wires but I was wondering if there was anything else I can check
11-28-2016, 11:39 PM
#15
40th anniversary Edition
Ihystrix. those 6.6-6.8 compression numbers are a failing, low compression engine.(see our RX8 club compression test chart, below) Rotaries can still run with low compression, for awhile. If you don't have the money for a rebuild or reman right now, you can keep driving it with your newly ordrered coils, plugs and wires and try to extend its life. But it won't last forever, and you are not getting normal performance with those compression figures.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-28-2016 at 11:47 PM.
11-29-2016, 05:47 PM
#17
Well I cleaned the MAF sensor, my air intake, my ESS, and I had a compression test done (between 6.6 and 6.8), and my fuel pressure is fine. Still can't find anything wrong with it and I'm not sure where to look now. I ordered new coils, spark plugs, and wires but I was wondering if there was anything else I can check
I would get the engine running and get to operating temp. run 32oz of water through the service ports on the LIM with some vacuum line and a Y to get both at the same time. start the engine and have someone rev it to 3-4K, hold the revs and slowly suck down the water. the water will steam clean the carbon out of the engine. do it slowly and let the engine cool in between at idle. then do all 32oz or so. at the end suck down a little 2 cycle oil through it...not much. it might through a little engine code but it lubes everything up. shut the engine off and change the oil after it cools. pre-mix 2 cycle oil in the gasoline at 1oz to 1 gallon of fuel or so. get a nice good lubricant to seal and break up that carbon. run the car for a while, a good few hundred miles and also add in some red heat bottle to ensure the fuel injectors are getting cleaned as well. run the car for a good 500-1000 miles and see if the compression comes back.
11-29-2016, 07:46 PM
#18
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
I would get the engine running and get to operating temp. run 32oz of water through the service ports on the LIM with some vacuum line and a Y to get both at the same time. start the engine and have someone rev it to 3-4K, hold the revs and slowly suck down the water. the water will steam clean the carbon out of the engine. do it slowly and let the engine cool in between at idle. then do all 32oz or so. at the end suck down a little 2 cycle oil through it...not much. it might through a little engine code but it lubes everything up. shut the engine off and change the oil after it cools. pre-mix 2 cycle oil in the gasoline at 1oz to 1 gallon of fuel or so. get a nice good lubricant to seal and break up that carbon. run the car for a while, a good few hundred miles and also add in some red heat bottle to ensure the fuel injectors are getting cleaned as well. run the car for a good 500-1000 miles and see if the compression comes back.
11-29-2016, 09:29 PM
#19
It works in any rotary engine if compression loss is due to carbon build up. Carbon build up is due to a rich fuel mixture, not from injecting engine oil from the engine. Most rotaries need rebuilds due to sticking seals. In order to unstick the seals the best method that I know of is injecting water or water treatments. this can sometimes unstick a seal, or keep the engine clean. Running 2 cycle oil helps in many ways. It lubes the seals preventing wear and also helps build a nice/better seal between the seals and housings/plates.
I don't think the S2 has the service ports? need to look on the lower intake manifold.
those are the service ports.
you can also inject anywhere in the upper intake manifold if there is a small vacuum line to inject or suck from.
you just need to "sip" water through a little at a time.
Here is the procedure to do so.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
The red heet bottles to use to clean out the fuel injectors and fuel tank.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...FYaGaQodLJQEyA
you can use this with 2-cycle oil as well. walmart carries it for super cheap.
Best of luck and your engine will thank you. you may not notice results immediately after doing it but might take some time to unstick the carbon with some hundreds of miles after water treatment.
and FYI, I purchased a poor running rx8 for a very low price. It had carbon build up and a very small coolant leak. I put Kseal into the engine and it stopped the leak, I ran water through it and decarbed the engine. The car starts at 6,500ft above sea level (lower compression) hot or cold, which originally had issues at sea level. I also needed to change the mass air flow sensor, a SSV solenoid, and the ignition coils are bad.
Last edited by lOOkatme; 11-29-2016 at 09:33 PM.