I have a 2004 RX8. Put a rebuild in it & fired up after a bit of cranking. Doesn't want to idle. Checked the injector wiring & according to alldatapro.com i had the primary & secondary mixed up. Their layout & description isn't the best.

Double check= the primary injectors are on the motor while the secondary are mounted in the lower intake. correct or am I reading it wrong?

 

See this thread for the clearest explaination yet: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...iagram-250850/

 

thanks for the fast reply. now, explain this, i had them backwards. i just got done correcting that & now it won't start at all!!!!! it would run with them backwards but not now.

 

There are so many explainations for why the engine might not start, that I can't give you a specific reason. You have to start checking stuff.

Do you have spark?
Do you have fuel?
Is the engine turning over?

 

see thats what im saying. with the injectors hooked up backwards i could drive it. it would run smooth above 2k rpm. now that the connectors are right( according to alldata and the thread you linked me to) it WONT run

 

Ok, but that doesn't mean that you didn't disrupt something else in the process of changing the connectors.

Think through everything you touched to get down to the injectors, and walk through everything.

If you can't figure out anything that changed, then test for spark, and test for fuel. Just yelling at a random guy on the internet to "give me an answer!" when you are the one with the car in hand is unrealistic

 

oh i know and i apologize if thats how it seems. (didnt mean it like that) its just a little frustrating

 

Yup, I get it, no offense taken, just trying to calm you down a bit.

Walk through it logically, you will find the solution.

 

This is my first go round with a rotary engine. Just verifying I have the wiring correct for the injectors because it was running and now it's not. I have spark & fuel. It's a pain the a** to get to those connectors and I'm gonna have to redo it if I'm wrong. Also i have the standard hp not the high power hp motor

 

If you have you have fuel after changing the injector connectors, than this isn't an injector wiring problem. Having spark or fuel means it isn't an ESS problem. If you have spark AND fuel still, then the issue is that you aren't igniting the fuel that you have. This could mean that it's flooded, the battery is dying, the starter is dying, or your compression is too low (yes, I realized you just put in a new engine, just listing it because it IS a possible reason)

 

and i went thru all connections (electrical & vacuum) and all are hooked back the way it was

 

ok, i got it running. but if i shut it off i HAVE to do the de flood procedure to get it to start, my thought is compression. Check compression & right at 100 lbs on front & rear rotor assembly on a warm engine. any thoughts?

 

Drive it for a while to get the seals to seat better.....did you put in new bearings?

If no...you can drive it harder than if you have new bearings to break in

 

I didn't rebuild it. we bought it rebuilt. the thing is driving it is gonna be a problem when i can't really drop it below 2k rpms.

 

this is what I'm using as a guide for the compression test.
Compression test using a piston engine tester:
1. note battery strength. A weak battery will yield low compression results.
2. Remove both lower plugs and wires.
3. remove EGI fuse from engine fusebox.
4. have a friend floor the accelerator pedal, opening the throttle for more airflow
5. insert your tester into the leading hole
6. hold the valve on the side of the tester open
7. have your friend crank the car over for 5+ seconds.
8. observe the needle bounces. You should see 3 in succession without skips, even bounces, in roughly the 30-35psi range.
9. let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
10. repeat for opposite rotor. Note difference in overall compression between rotors, which should be no more than 20psi max.


front rotor= 40-45 lbs(bouncing) & 109 lbs (not bouncing)
rear rotor= 25-35 lbs(bouncing) & 93 lbs( not bouncing)

anybody see a problem with the procedure or results??

altitude= 950ft
rpm = 258

 

You are missing RPM and altitude

100 PSI is failing at sea level if your starter is cranking the engine at ~260rpm or faster. Higher altitude lowers the pass/fail line slowly.

 

Ok kiddies!!! got it running. give it throttle and it dies, fuel psi steady at 60psi. had to replace the solenoid trio under the intake. getting code P0172. Any thoughts on a usual suspect for running rich?

also a lil clarification would be nice on the fact alldata and almost every pic i find shows me the primary injectors in the block and secondary in the intake manifold. yet, the dealer told me that the primary is in the intake & secondary is in the block?????

Help is always appreciated

 

Dealer is an idiot

If your compression is as poor as the previous post suggests you won't have much luck. It should run at higher rpm's if you keep it fueled...and if it was flooded your compression #'s are meaningless...so...not sure what to tell you \

Keep your foot in it and try and get it warmed up...and then you can do a compression test that might be useful

 

LOL, so i'm correct as in the primaries are in the block?

This is a remaned block & those were after bringing it up to temp & time enough to cool down while doing the comp test is all it cooled down

 

I did not like what you were saying so I reran the comp test

Engine at operating temp, fuel pump disabled, trailing plugs in, throttle wide open,
RPM=259-265
front rotor= 98 lbs
rear rotor= 97 lbs
elevation= 950 ft
even three bounces when holding the schrader valve in

i really hope that what i think your gonna say isn't so!!!!

 

Converts to 102 / 101 PSI when corrected for altitude and RPM.

It's right on the failing line, but as a newly rebuilt engine it should come up as it breaks in.

 

Unless the rebuild was literally done with all new housings and seals, it will not be much higher than that initially. Those numbers are completely normal for a fresh build.