05 Rx8 is having trouble getting above 7.5k rpm.
#1
05 Rx8 is having trouble getting above 7.5k rpm.
Hey fellas! I pulled off the upper intake manifold to replace the clutch slave and the SSV and VDI vacuum lines. After that the car will rev up to 7.5k then stutter before continuing up the rev range. The car is having vaccume related problems so they might be related. I took a video earlier today of it happening (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bDg1K8COfPzvd5NF7yll4bsHQAHgarAx/view?usp=drivesdk)
So far I've taken off the UIM and checked the gaskets
I've checked the throttle body for any hitches
I've sprayed brake cleaner around the engine bay looking for leaks.
I'm almost certain it was caused by taking off the UIM for the first time
So far I've taken off the UIM and checked the gaskets
I've checked the throttle body for any hitches
I've sprayed brake cleaner around the engine bay looking for leaks.
I'm almost certain it was caused by taking off the UIM for the first time
#2
Registered
Hey fellas! I pulled off the upper intake manifold to replace the clutch slave and the SSV and VDI vacuum lines. After that the car will rev up to 7.5k then stutter before continuing up the rev range. The car is having vaccume related problems so they might be related. I took a video earlier today of it happening (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bDg...w?usp=drivesdk)
So far I've taken off the UIM and checked the gaskets
I've checked the throttle body for any hitches
I've sprayed brake cleaner around the engine bay looking for leaks.
I'm almost certain it was caused by taking off the UIM for the first time
So far I've taken off the UIM and checked the gaskets
I've checked the throttle body for any hitches
I've sprayed brake cleaner around the engine bay looking for leaks.
I'm almost certain it was caused by taking off the UIM for the first time
The following users liked this post:
ErgoSum (12-21-2020)
#3
Registered
^^
Definitely sounds like just a vacuum issue. I'd check all the connections with the 3 vacuum solenoids on the back of the oil filler neck.
(backside under the UIM) I believe they should be Black(bottom) White(middle) Blue(top) on your actual car. Your issue would likely be with the Black or White plugs (green or red respectively in the diagram)
Definitely sounds like just a vacuum issue. I'd check all the connections with the 3 vacuum solenoids on the back of the oil filler neck.
(backside under the UIM) I believe they should be Black(bottom) White(middle) Blue(top) on your actual car. Your issue would likely be with the Black or White plugs (green or red respectively in the diagram)
Last edited by MincVinyl; 12-21-2020 at 05:04 PM. Reason: picture was messed up
The following users liked this post:
ErgoSum (12-21-2020)
The following users liked this post:
ErgoSum (12-21-2020)
#5
^^
Definitely sounds like just a vacuum issue. I'd check all the connections with the 3 vacuum solenoids on the back of the oil filler neck.
(backside under the UIM) I believe they should be Black(bottom) White(middle) Blue(top) on your actual car. Your issue would likely be with the Black or White plugs (green or red respectively in the diagram)
Definitely sounds like just a vacuum issue. I'd check all the connections with the 3 vacuum solenoids on the back of the oil filler neck.
(backside under the UIM) I believe they should be Black(bottom) White(middle) Blue(top) on your actual car. Your issue would likely be with the Black or White plugs (green or red respectively in the diagram)
The idle issues are so bad after highway driving about 30% of the time it'll stall on me. Would replacing the solinoids fix this as well?
#6
Registered
On the highway what rpm do you tend to sit at? Or do you think something might be sticking after you try to do a pull above 7k?
Well the solenoids just allow the computer to tell the ssv/vdi to open using vacuum. So first follow the vacuum lines to the ssv/vdi and by hand see if they turn(they should be relatively easy to turn and return on their own. On a lot of higher mileage cars they can get plenty of carbon buildup on them. It is a rather PITA to clean while in the car. I cleaned mine all out during my engine rebuild using extra brake cleaners we had. I'd be afraid to get carbon chunks dropping down into the engine honestly. I'd also question what any fluid cleaner you think about putting down into the engine.
Here's the openings for the various intake valves in mazdaedit(ssv table open on the right)
You can always try swapping the Blue secondary air solenoid for the vdi solenoid too. Double/triple checking the electrical and vacuum lines.
Just to be sure, do you experience any hot start issues at any other times? >>this would start to point towards low compression which likely is also not helping idle anyways, but would not hinder the engine from going above 7krpm.
Well the solenoids just allow the computer to tell the ssv/vdi to open using vacuum. So first follow the vacuum lines to the ssv/vdi and by hand see if they turn(they should be relatively easy to turn and return on their own. On a lot of higher mileage cars they can get plenty of carbon buildup on them. It is a rather PITA to clean while in the car. I cleaned mine all out during my engine rebuild using extra brake cleaners we had. I'd be afraid to get carbon chunks dropping down into the engine honestly. I'd also question what any fluid cleaner you think about putting down into the engine.
Here's the openings for the various intake valves in mazdaedit(ssv table open on the right)
You can always try swapping the Blue secondary air solenoid for the vdi solenoid too. Double/triple checking the electrical and vacuum lines.
Just to be sure, do you experience any hot start issues at any other times? >>this would start to point towards low compression which likely is also not helping idle anyways, but would not hinder the engine from going above 7krpm.
Last edited by MincVinyl; 12-23-2020 at 01:07 AM.
#7
On the highway what rpm do you tend to sit at? Or do you think something might be sticking after you try to do a pull above 7k?
Well the solenoids just allow the computer to tell the ssv/vdi to open using vacuum. So first follow the vacuum lines to the ssv/vdi and by hand see if they turn(they should be relatively easy to turn and return on their own. On a lot of higher mileage cars they can get plenty of carbon buildup on them. It is a rather PITA to clean while in the car. I cleaned mine all out during my engine rebuild using extra brake cleaners we had. I'd be afraid to get carbon chunks dropping down into the engine honestly. I'd also question what any fluid cleaner you think about putting down into the engine.
Here's the openings for the various intake valves in mazdaedit(ssv table open on the right)
You can always try swapping the Blue secondary air solenoid for the vdi solenoid too. Double/triple checking the electrical and vacuum lines.
Just to be sure, do you experience any hot start issues at any other times? >>this would start to point towards low compression which likely is also not helping idle anyways, but would not hinder the engine from going above 7krpm.
Well the solenoids just allow the computer to tell the ssv/vdi to open using vacuum. So first follow the vacuum lines to the ssv/vdi and by hand see if they turn(they should be relatively easy to turn and return on their own. On a lot of higher mileage cars they can get plenty of carbon buildup on them. It is a rather PITA to clean while in the car. I cleaned mine all out during my engine rebuild using extra brake cleaners we had. I'd be afraid to get carbon chunks dropping down into the engine honestly. I'd also question what any fluid cleaner you think about putting down into the engine.
Here's the openings for the various intake valves in mazdaedit(ssv table open on the right)
You can always try swapping the Blue secondary air solenoid for the vdi solenoid too. Double/triple checking the electrical and vacuum lines.
Just to be sure, do you experience any hot start issues at any other times? >>this would start to point towards low compression which likely is also not helping idle anyways, but would not hinder the engine from going above 7krpm.
I normally do highway driving at 4k rmp in 6th gear, doing 3-4 redlines has also caused the issue to happen at stoplights. Engine has 90k km on it and hot starts are never a problem.
I talked to a guy who works on rx8's and 7's for a living and he told me it's 100% those orange gaskets causing the problem. Has anyone had any luck with sealing it with some silicon so I can save the 90$ it'll cost for the full gasket set?
Thanks for the answer, Cheers
#8
Registered
How beaten up are your orange gaskets? I've had 2 cars 120kmiles and both intake gaskets are fine, but I don't live in a very dry area. Might as well check the wishbone piece next time you get down in there. I would find it strange that you dont seem to have any issues until you go above 7k rpm and then all of a sudden you have issues again. He'd have to be suggesting that the gaskets are somehow being sucked in and then going back into place at a certain point. I'd hate to waste the 90$ for no reason, can't hurt to check all the gaskets I suppose.
What makes the issue go away? It sounds like after XXX the car is going back to normal operation until you try for 7k rpm again.
What makes the issue go away? It sounds like after XXX the car is going back to normal operation until you try for 7k rpm again.
#9
fi the car revs up fine half way and then loss of power the last half is usually the ssv
there is the solenoid as other's suggested but there is also a SSV actuator that gets full of oil and sticky needs to be cleaned
but in your case, you messed with the engine? 95% chance you put it back together wrong
there is the solenoid as other's suggested but there is also a SSV actuator that gets full of oil and sticky needs to be cleaned
but in your case, you messed with the engine? 95% chance you put it back together wrong
#10
Registered
Thanks for the answers fellas, always blows me away the support on this website. The lines are brand new and secured tightly so it looks like I'll have to replace the solinoids. The car has been having idle issues after highway driving so I figure I might as well replace both the VDI and SSV. The only code I got was a P0410 but I seem to have found and fixed that issue.
The idle issues are so bad after highway driving about 30% of the time it'll stall on me. Would replacing the solinoids fix this as well?
The idle issues are so bad after highway driving about 30% of the time it'll stall on me. Would replacing the solinoids fix this as well?
#11
fi the car revs up fine half way and then loss of power the last half is usually the ssv
there is the solenoid as other's suggested but there is also a SSV actuator that gets full of oil and sticky needs to be cleaned
but in your case, you messed with the engine? 95% chance you put it back together wrong
there is the solenoid as other's suggested but there is also a SSV actuator that gets full of oil and sticky needs to be cleaned
but in your case, you messed with the engine? 95% chance you put it back together wrong
Also I found out that to solve the idle issue I keep having after highway driving, I keep the car in 6th on the offramp instead of coasting in nuteral. Hasn't happened since, it's good to have a fully working car again and I'm back to fully enjoying that 9.5k redline.
Appreciate the help fellas, Cheers
The following 2 users liked this post by ErgoSum:
CaymanRotary (12-25-2020),
MincVinyl (12-26-2020)
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