I'd rather stick with the OEM rims, they are like the only ones I like and I think sizes smaller than the 18s look kinda silly. My problem is I find that 99% of aftermarket rims look like *** so my new/used rims are VERY limited.

I don't care if I had the TPMS or not. Not a huge deal. never had it before and I'm not dead yet from a leaky tire.

I've been trying to find a good deal on a set of used OEM rims but so far I haven not been lucky enough.

How bad do you think the bead gets after a few changes? I would suspect they don't get damaged enough so they don't last a season or two. Thats what I would expect at least from the tires.

 

Yes. I have the Dunlop WinterSport M3s on my 18 inch stock wheels. I am also lowered with Tein S-Tech springs. Zero issues with even the sick snow storm we had 2 years ago where 95 through RI was a parking lot b/c it came down so fast the plows couldn't keep up with it.

IIRC, it cost me ~ $900 for the tires with balance, mount, 4 wheel alignment and the roadside damage insurance. I'm still on summers b/c the weather has been so co-operative and this will be winter number 4 with those M3s. 3 months will be pushing it, though.

 

Exactly. Obviously I'm not saying 18" winter tires will not function in snow, it is just a proven fact you will have better traction with 17 and of course less cost. So what it boils down to is convenience, cost, and personal choice. If it's a choice of looking good or being safe, I'll take the safe route.

 

It's like Summer here today Josh (after freezing temps two mornings ago) - quick, put your warm weather rims/tires back on.

 

Does the TPMS warning light appear on the dashboard if you don't install sensors?

Can anyone else speak for the Firestone Winterforce? They're going for just over 100 and I'm looking to pick up a set of 17s.

 

Even with the stock wheels the TPMS can get a little confused. The explanations I have heard range from steel in the sidewalls interfere with the system to the cold temps (doubtful) and all sorts of other crap.

It will come on without the sensors. I have been ignoring that little light for years. No TPMS in my summer wheels and the winter ones "interfere" with the system so it stays lit all winter, too.

 

Yes, the TPMS warning light appears steady On if you don't have sensors installed, but many simply put an adhesive dot over the dash light (or even a small piece of electrical tape).

No experience with the Firestone's, but then they're part of Bridgestone so must be pretty good (Bridgestone Blizzak preferred).

 

It's not the tire pressure function of the TPMS that's important its the dynamic stability control function which you really want to work in the winter. The TPMS are necessary for proper DSC function. I am on my third winter swap with no leaky beads. The winter tire mounting is free however you are charged for balancing and stem (core) replacement. Can't say I look forward to winter here in the Northeast but the Blizzak tires I use in winter are better on wet roads than the original Dunlops. Good snow traction also. It is inconvenient to lug the tires to the service center and the mechanics will probably take your car for a " test drive" after so zero out the B trip odometer and display the A trip odometer so you'll know if they do.

 

frankly dsc in winter is a liability as much as it is a help.

 

Why does TPMS influence DSC? The traction control won't let me do stupid stuff with snows (w/o tpms.) Can't even really fishtail well with TCS enabled.

 

^Same here. Where did you hear/find that information mbrule6465?

 

The DSC works by monitoring each wheel speed individually using the TPM sensors along with yaw rate and longitudinal and lateral acceleration through various sensor.

The DSC module also receives information from vehicle speed and engine speed, throttle position, brake pedal position/force and the steering angle sensor. All of this information collected is fed to the DSC control module and process.

 

The RX 8 employs "indirect TPMS" which use the fact that an under-inflated tire has a slightly smaller diameter than a correctly inflated tire and therefore has to rotate at a higher angular velocity to cover the same distance. That is why you only receive a warning that there is a tire pressure issue and not specific information such as actual tire pressures readings. Direct TMPS monitor actual tire pressure by employing pressure sensors at each wheel and then relay that information using RF transmitters and receivers.

 

To fully disable the DSC and the TCS press and hold the DSC on/off button. Note that when the DSC has been disabled in this way it can only be reactivated by turning off the ignition which resets the DSC system.

 

I'm sorry mbrule6465 but I must take issue. Our TPMS sensors do render actual tire pressure, but we simply don't have a readout monitor for them, just a generalized idiot light.

My relatively lowly Jeep Patriot has the very same TPMS sensors but also has a dash pictorial readout of each tire's pressure - sure wish the upscale '8 provided same.

 

Well, all I know is even if the PCM is not reading all the information from lack of TPMS, my traction control still functions enough for me in dry and icy conditions. When those tires let loose it kicks right in.

 

I'm still running my summer set up... the weather in NYC looks so good and I know I'm pushing it but I hate driving on my stock winter wheels! LOL

 

^ As long as you can quickly react keep rolling the dice. Nice extended Fall wx this year!

 

Just got my 17's with some michi's on. I'm a bit of an aggressive driver in corners and all, and with NH roads I was able to break all 4 OEM wheels over last winter and summer when I figured why not I'll run them. Took over 8oz to get them to only mildly vibrate, so I think the 8 will be on 17's for the rest of the time I own it in NH. Roads are just way too rough to not have some sidewall.

 

^ Yep, you certainly have to consider your typical roadway conditions when deciding on suspension setups, including the integral component - tires. Just too rough here for very low sidewall, lowered, etc.

 

i was off of work this week so didn't have to drive but made the switch yesterday since i'll be going back monday and temps are well below 40 now. of course somehow i came up one locking lug nut short so it must have been eaten by the same troll that takes just one sock from the dryer. looks like i'll go buy some cheap ones from autozone tomorrow.

 

^ LOL Yep, must be same gremlin that took one of my locking lugs. But now I use spline nuts and torque them to 108 ft/lbs per the TSB.

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda.../21-1058c.html

 

I dropped off the winter set but my mechanic couldn't do it Monday or Tuesday morning (last week) and then when I got going Wednesday morning to go over there I had to drive the summers in an inch of snow.

Fun stuff, that! It literally sounded like I was rolling around on a box of rocks b/c the tires were so hard. Traction was at or about zero and I felt bad for anyone behind me as I drove around town at a whopping 12 mph for the first 2 miles before the tires warmed enough to not just bounce along the top of the snow.

I didn't even try to go my normal route b/c the access to the 2 lane, 45mph highway down the road takes a slight downhill then a quick uphill where I would have to turn onto the road in traffic. Yeah, um, no thanks. The most likely scenario there would be me stuck in the little 30 foot long "valley" the summers would not have been able to handle.

 

Exactly....I just check the weather forecast every 2 or 3 days. I like the way my summer setup looks too much ;-)

The Pole Position's get a little slippery when it's cold out though, lots of fun!!

 

I mounted blizzaks in 17s last week and took her to Killington. The car had no problem driving on steep roads covered with ice, dirt, and snow. Quite a remarkable difference from the all-seasons I had.