Hey,

I noticed that at least one person has bought the decarbonization engine cleaner from mazda.

I know when I use the stuff at work the only directions are the one on the can....which arent the directions mazda wants you to use.

Have you guys found the official mazda instructions as per the TSB or would you like me to post them?

meh I'll just post them:
A - CARBON REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING:
PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING ENGINE CLEANER.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES WHEN HANDLING.
ENGINE CLEANER IS FLAMMABLE.

NOTE: An assistant may be necessary while performing this procedure.

Approximately half a can of engine cleaner will be used per vehicle during this repair.

1. Start engine and warm to operating temperature. Turn engine off.

2. Cleaner kit comes with engine cleaner (A) and engine cleaner spray hose (B).

3. Disconnect Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor (ESPS) B1-27 connector.

NOTE: This will cut fuel injection and spark while performing the procedure.

4. Disconnect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.

5. Remove the front vacuum plug or vacuum hose from the passenger side of the lower intake manifold.

NOTE: 2006 model year and later vehicles have vacuum hoses attached to these ports for the PCV system. Disconnect these hoses from the lower intake manifold ports one at a time when performing this procedure. These hoses do not need to be plugged once disconnected.

CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to service both vacuum ports at the same time. Perform procedure for front port, then perform procedure for rear port.

6. Insert engine cleaner spray hose (B) into front port nipple (C).

7. Attach engine cleaner spray hose to engine cleaner spray can nozzle.

8. Have an assistant crank the engine. While cranking the engine, simultaneously depress the spray nozzle of the engine cleaner for a duration of 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, stop spraying and cranking at the same time. DO NOT depress accelerator pedal while cranking.

9. Wait a minimum of 30 seconds and repeat STEP 6 for the same port.

10. Reconnect vacuum hose or install vacuum plug to front nipple.

11. Repeat STEPS 5-10 for rear nipple.

12. Allow the engine cleaner to soak for at least 1 hour before starting engine.

13. Connect ESPS connector B1-27.

14. Attempt to start engine without depressing accelerator pedal.

15. Keep engine running between 1500-2000 RPM until engine speed has stabilized. Maintain this engine speed until all smoke has dissipated and / or engine has come to full operating temperature.

CAUTION: Do not race the engine during warm-up, this may cause catalyst damage.

16. Rev engine from idle speed up to 6,000 RPM, then release throttle immediately until RPM returns to idle speed.

17. Repeat 20 times with vehicle in Park (AT) or neutral (MT).

18-23. Cant be done outside of dealer, concerns using the IDS Computer System, not necessary anyway.

24. Turn engine off.

25. Connect the secondary air injection pump connector B1-04.


huzzah!

kevin.

 

should be in here

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/

 

also i believe this is the part number for the cleaner from mazda, i could be off as i have two different numbers but forget which is which:
5555-08-008A

 

No, you don't.
You activate it to step 60, which is nearly 100% capacity (step 64 is 100%).


I wouldn't do this (it introduces WAY too much oil and does so unevenly;not to mention you should use two stroke for that), but that isn't the reason you do it, anyway.
It has nothing to do with the drying effect (though increasing OMP output during and after the procedure is a good idea for this reason).
Mazda has you do that to verify the effect on engine vacuum and, therefore, compression. It part of the test, not a preventative.

 

adjusted it for you, as for the oil/cup thing i threw that on there after someone on here said thats how you DIY@home guys do it, shouldve just left it out.

never used a decarbonizer on my 7's motors so never really worried about getting oil in there other then premix and atf for deflood.

kevin.

 

Is Mazda part # 5555-08-008A the same as the discontinued Mazda part #
0000-77-A86 ?

 

You don't have to spam every thread with zoom cleaner.
One is enough.

 

Not all. Only three, and didn't mean to offend.
Just didn't think every one who subscribed to this thread subscribed to the other two and I wanted to reach as many people as possible.

 

No worries, figured I'd give you a heads up.
It's against the rules, and I figured you'd rather hear it from me than a moderator.

 

Hey Guys,
Just performed this procedure and the car is driving great! I used the two cycle engine oil for just about 5 seconds per port to lubricate it on startup. Smoke started to clear by about rev 10 and almost totally cleared by 20. Drove it for about 5 miles and doing great. I reset fuel trim and will drive around a bit tonight. thanks for the advice!

 

Cool, maybe tomorrow you can light some cash on fire and watch it burn

 

sort of like spenking 50k+ to boost your renny to a whopping 2psi

 

Not quite but close.

 

I can't see where these two PVC ports are, do you have to remove some stuff? I've got a 2007.
Thanks, Jim

 

in the 2006 or newer models those ports have a rubber tube connected to them which goes to the oil filler neck ..... just trace them down to the lower intake manifold .....

 

That worked, but a real bugger to get them off, then my vacuum hose was to small to fit over. After a half hour struggle to get them back on, I removed the hose at the oil filler neck and poured some Sea Foam in there, then cranked it into the engine. I waited 10 minutes, so that the Sea Foam would hopefully dry up whatever extra gas was left in my flooded blank blank car, then cranked with the gas to the floor, and it really tried to start, but didn't, (A neighbour walked by, and looked severely at the drifting white smoke). More cranking with gas to floor, and then a repeat of the above, and it almost started again. Does anyone know if a quick start fluid would help, and be OK for the engine and cat etc?
Thanks, Jim

 

Only issue with that is it won't be evenly distributed

 

Do you think pouring an additive in from the oil filler neck connection while someone jogged the engine over would distribute the stuff evenly? Just before quitting yesterday, I repeated my process, and then connected the battery charger. Today, after the seafoam sat in part, or all of the engine for nearly 24 hours, it started. I had to keep it at or above 2000 RPM for quite awhile, but it ran fine when warmed up. I bought a can of quick start, and had it sitting on fender, I think the engine knew it was licked. I took it for a spin and am no longer calling it a blank blank car. Eggnog tonight and no more buses tomorrow, Christmas cheer to all!