DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

So the next DIY is Ryan's turbonator right?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Unless Ryan gets his turbo next summer... no
I want to make sure my car is solid before going FI.
I want to do some work to the transmission/clutch because I don't like how it feels shifting.
Then probably new brake calipers since caliper floats seizing tend to be a common occurrences (and seeing Steve's rotors make me want to change those too).

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

So, I'll share this with everyone. We unhooked my battery to change the plugs... Since that reset, when the car is at operating temp and dropping in rpm, it will stall. The ECU will not give it enough gas to stay running... this happens everytime I push the clutch in the rpms drop below 750rpm...

This has resulted in needing 3 feet to drive. Clutch, brake, and slightly on the gas to keep the engine running. I've resorted to shifting out of gear, letting the clutch out and using the left foot to brake while keeping the rpms away from 750, which is the point of no return.

Jon: Per your PM - Still stalling (clearly) I'm getting pissed.
On the plus side... how many people have ever started their cars by rolling backwards down their driveway after stalling at the top and popping the clutch?

What sensor do I need to clean now?
I'm thinking of unhooking the battery and letting my window licking, doorknob sucking ecu try to figure out how to idle again.
I'll unhook my awesome grounding kit tomorrow if the 2nd battery reset fails.

Brakes feel really good. Parking brake cable needs adjusted.
Maybe when I take it in to have the calipers fixed I can blame the stalling on them...

Oh, Jon - I got the pads and rotors from the ebay seller top brakes:
http://stores.ebay.com/top-brakes

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

While doing a search I found one thread where someone with somewhat similar problems cleaned the MAF sensor.
The sensor housing is mounted on your intake tube (see attached pic) and can be cleaned with MAF or contact cleaner.
Now before you clean it, you SHOULD unhook the negative side of the battery (I KNOW... I KNOW)
Unplug the wire harness and remove the black housing (held by two screws).
Once you remove the housing, you'll see a brown teardrop. This is not the MAF, its the IAT (intake air temp) sensor.
Look up inside the housing and you'll see two resistor wires. These are the MAF wires and you can just give them (and the IAT) a generous soak with cleaner and let air dry for a couple minutes.

After you unhook the battery and clean the MAF, complete the KAM reset by:

1. Reattach the negative terminal
2. Turn your key to ON but don't crank start
3. Press brake pedal in quick succession until the oil pressure needle travels to middle point and back again.
4. Turn the key off and then start the car

I did read a lot of posts where people had issues similar to you and it turned out to be a grounding kit.
This was something I thought strongly about and reading these threads only confirmed that we (you) should definitely try.

Don't worry bud... we'll figure it out!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Oh... I forgot to mention Steve, remember when you asked why the rotor had some material cut off the rotor?
After some thinking, I believe its for proper balance since material is drilled-out for the two mounting screws.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Ryan can attest to this but it does take quite a distance for the 8 to relearn trim. It will keep stalling out and it is a real PITA. Best recommendation really is to hop on a highway quickly and drive for a good 10 - 15 minutes. Then try and survive a quiet city street for a bit. It is really really bad and you will fight it the whole way. Only suggestions I have from your post though is that you use your hand brake...it is there for a reason.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Wish it was that easy John!
Steve's case is unique and I've never seen a vehicle take so long to relearn nor have I seen a car stall this quickly in the process.
We let it sit idle for quite some time while we cleaned-up, took it on the road/highway and revved it when we could, sat back in the parking lot and tapped the gas hoping it would recover itself once it dropped below 1K RPM.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Ok, I'll clean the MAF sensor first - then try the reset.

If that doesn't work, I'll take off the grounding kit.

I've noticed its fine until the car heats up also... interesting. It learned last time though when we did the midpipe.

I'll keep you updated.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Very weird. Wouldn't he get a CEL if his MAF was dirty enough to cause his computer to get stupid?

And I had to left foot brake when I was stalling out after resetting my computer. So annoying.

Pretty sure that when it's running right my 8 will idle around 1500 rpms when it's cold and then settle down to the normal 850ish range after it's warmed up. Yours hasn't figured out it's base idle so it's probably closer to 1200 or so when it's cold and when it tries to adjust after warming up it drops closer to 500.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

More than likely yes.
Like I said before, I read only one thread where someone encountered a situation close to his and they cleaned the MAF.
They didn't mention if they received a CEL nor did they update afterward.
Figured it wouldn't hurt to try it since its a quick check.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

This is because the RPM idle "target" is higher due to the temperature.
When your engine warms up, the target goes back to normal.

I'm curious... have you ever disconnected the battery prior to us doing it with the mid-pipe?
Maybe this was an issue from the previous owner and we never knew about it.

RK

iTrader: (1)

Jon - I thought the car required multiple on/off drive cycles in addition to meeting the correct 'scenarios' for relearning the trim and engine behavior. Am I wrong? Does it just need to hit all the scenarios (ie. >30 mph for 5 mins) and doesn't need the on/off sequences?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You're probably thinking of the OBD-II Pending Trouble Code.
A failed code it stored in the PCM memory in the first drive cycle.
If the problem is not found in the second drive cycle, the PCM deletes the pending code.
If the problem is found in the second drive cycle, the PCM judges that the system has failed and the DTC is stored (CEL appears).

It basically needs to know how to get to the programmed value (trim) and shouldn't require any on/off sequences.

The "PCM Adaptive Memory Produce Drive Mode" is performed before the shop runs other test and uses their WDS to inspect min max values:

1. Start the engine and warm it up completely
2. Verify accessory loads are off (A/C, headlights, blower fan, rear defroster).
3. Idle speed (RPM) is normal.
4. Performed no load racing between 2500 - 3500 rpm for more than 15 seconds
5. Then continue to perform no load racing 4500 - 5000 rpm for more than 15 seconds.
6. Idle the engine for more than 60 seconds after the cooling fan stopped.
7. Turn the ignition off.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

Well, after work I repeated the battery reset. To the same results... well, sort of the same results. I am much more upset than I was yesterday.

Further, cold weather with a car that stalls = dead battery. (Jon, you cursed me!) So, jumper cables and much patience were needed.

There really is no reason for this... you unhook the battery and the car doesn't work anymore. Running fine - replace brakes and plugs, unhook battery... then car stalls uncontrollably.


On a side note...
Doc: I will be calling to cancel my 5.20 appt. tomorrow. I'm having car trouble.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I'm guessing (because the battery died) that you didn't try removing the grounding kit.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

nope... not yet. It was weird. Things were going better... car seemed to be testing its own limits and initial rpm was higher, then it stalled and really wouldn't turn over... Honestly I thought perhaps I had flooded it. I wasn't getting any signs of life. Then I lost the battery... jumped it 5 min later with a company truck and it started right up (but then stalled) which indicated it was not flooded.

I guess since my afternoon is open tomorrow I will try following the trim procedure you outlined as well as removing the grounding kit... (does that even do anything?)

(sorry doc, but I'm not driving a crippled vehicle over an hour when it stalls randomly and the battery may or may not be fully charged.)

It seemed to do okay on the drive back from hockey. But who knows.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Oh yes... you will see electrical problems with improper/poor grounding.
Remember that resistance is the enemy to proper grounding.
Do you have an upgraded ground cable going from the battery to the chassis?
Since you've worked with car audio, you've probably heard of "ground-loop"?
Also, did you remove and clean the MAF?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Hey Steve,
I posted this problem in the "Issues and Problems" section:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...52#post2760252

Maybe we can get some additional direction on how to remedy your problem.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

It's a w00t off! Happy Xmas Shopping everyone!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Been watching it all night.

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

WTF are you talking about?

Give Liz a call and reschedule.

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

http://www.woot.com

Normally it is one deal a day. However during a woot-off they do deal after deal after deal...normally for two days. Good ****...cheap prices...well worth it if you have the time to sit and watch and hit F5.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

^ what the hell does that mean?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Resetting the e-shaft positioning sensor occurs when we perform the "20x brake stomp reset".

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Man... a lot of computers being sold so far. Perfect timing for the holidays.
I'm still waiting for the Logitech universal remote (670 or 880) that they sometimes have.
Now that I have to use a Blu-ray player AND my HD-DVD player since the Blu-Ray player has a difficult time playing DVD+R disc... even with the latest firmware.