Well... if I had to guess, it may push into saturday... Hopefully not Sunday, but who knows... this isn't like changing a midpipe.

 

Werkin Fri...Werkin Sat...date for Sat night...Off Sun

 

It should take you (1) workday 8-10 hrs, to do the engine swap and have it running again. This includes "pad time" for smoke breaks and whatnot.

 

Picts from Sunday's AutoX for those of you not on FB.

http://devilboi.crackmonkey.us/e107_....php?album=115

 

You = Steve

Or You = anyone else?

 

Note the qualifier "should"

This referes to the amount of time it would take a normal mechanically inclined person to do an engine swap

This does not include:

*Smoke breaks
*Beer breaks
*Lunch breaks
*Time wasted looking for the right tool because you either don't have it, or it's lost in the shop
*Cleaning up the fluid that didn't make it into the drain pan
*phone calls because you can't figure something out.


For reference, when I swapped in the new engine into the ST, I had about 15 total hours doing it.

Day 1 was a 10 hour shift, and comprised of me taking off the hood, bumper, upper core support, disconnecting the million and a half wires to sensors in the rats nest of a Duratec engine bay, draining the oil, coolant, trans fluid, pulling drive shafts, pulling the engine and transmission, puling the transmission off the engine, pulling the clutch and flywheel, putting the clutch/flywheel/transmission on the new engine, dropping the new engine in, putting the drive shafts back in, reconnecting 90% of the electrical and 80% of the boost piping, and putting the upper core support and bumper back on.

I would have had it all done in 10 hours if about 4 hours into the adventure I didn't start tossing back shots of BV like they were water. Ask John, by the time he got there I was pretty damn drunk.

 

No . . .

Those should be included with us

 

Good point Jon

 

I want to say that you finished off a case of 24 that day while we worked on the engine...I don't remember any shots of BV after I got there though.

 

Yeah, I finished off what I had left in the BV bottle before you got there, then started working on the case of beer I had.

 

Dumb question, but the transmission and **** is all out right? Because there is no way you are getting that engine out with the trans still attached like we did on the donor, considering the front half of your car is still there. hahaha

 

Yea... the trans is sitting about 4 feet away from the engine... i think that's a safe distance.

In an interesting note, this if the first time I've had my trans off... needless to say that one winter that I drove the car was "evident" with how stubborn those bolts were.

 

Nah, you're just a ***** and couldn't get them loose. :p

 

qft.

 

You guys swapping the clutch and flywheel too? Probably wouldn't hurt to pop the pressure plates off and inspect the clutch disks since you will have easy access to both.

It would suck to have to tear apart the drivetrain again because the clutch on the donor was fubared...

 

It also sucks to tear it apart now... I think we'll roll the dice. Easier to sell a car that needs a new clutch but runs, ya know?

But I see your point.

 

Sucks to tear apart? um, no....

The only thing you have to take off are the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel, there's 8 of them, probably with like 70 ft/lbs of torque on them. It will take all of 10 minutes to pull it off, and 10 minutes to put it back on. Just make sure you have a clutch alignment tool so you can center the clutch disk when putting it back together, Jon has one I believe. It's just a stupid plastic plug with splines on it that fit into the clutch disk.

Think back to Tims car for a minute. If that material is all worn off of the clutch disk, you aren't moving that car period...

Not trying to sound like a dick, but this is why I worry about you working on cars. 20 minutes could potentially save HOURS of work. And if you were wrong and the clutch disk is fine on the donor, so what? You only lost 20 total minutes taking the pressure plate off and putting it back on. Half assing ****, especially on an unknown clutch when doing an engine swap to sell a car is just careless.

 

You're right and I hate you for it.

 

You know you love me.

 

Can someone smarter than me please explain why a rubber gasket needs to remain lubricated?

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=14

 

Dryrot from heat.

 

How can something dryrot when it is in constant contact with a liquid? It is impossible for it to be dry.

 

Well... Steve and I will not be heading to the cookout tomorrow.
We pulled the engine, swapped the peripherals to the donor engine, installed the engine and motor mounts.
Saturday we'll finish hooking everything back up and cross our fingers......

 

I am in need of some troubleshooting help. I took my car into a local audio shop to have my RCA cables for the amp and an FM Modulator for Sirius installed. The guy somehow shut down most of my center console. The Radio seems to work but I cannot turn the power off or control the volume from the *** (steering wheel works). I also have no control over A/C. I can adjust fan speed, but not turn AC on/off or adjust temp. I also have not data on my LCD screen, the background does light up when I turn my lights on. I cannot switch to CD/AUX or use any stereo related buttons besides the steering wheel.

The guy at the shop didnt know what he did wrong (of course), and I had to leave for Detroit so now I'm back home trying to figure it out. There are a couple threads with similar problems, but I could not find an appropriate solution. So far I have checked the connections behind the stereo and the interior fuse box, both seem ok. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

try disconnecting the faceplate from the radio and then reattaching it.