Yes...the sound that comes out of the AuxMod isn't all that great. You need to make sure that the headphone volume is all the way up and that you have a silent cd playing all the time.

Axxess made a box for the ipod hookup. It connects to the bottom of the HU where the tape deck goes so you don't loose your Sirius hookup. It also outputs ID3 info to the text display. Nice unit.

 

well what do u suggest i do to add an ipod jack?

 

even with all of the problems I had with it originally I think that the Axxess solution is the best. Most flexible and feature rich solution that is out there.

 

ok ill proly do that where did u buy it?

 

I bought it from some shitty store I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy. However I hear that the RPM Store sells it now so I would start heading that way.

 

yea they sell it for 144 lol

 

ok now how are you guys connecting your amps to the stock system?

 

Only person with an amp is Steve and he did go to the stock setup.

 

do you know how he did it? if he tapped into the amp wires at the bose amp or what?

 

In regards to the amp here is what you do.....


Go to the store and buy a line out converter. It is a little device that you splice into your speaker wires allowing signal to be sent to the box. The output of the box has RCAs on it. Plug the RCA wires into your amplifier and you are good to go.

As far as the remaining wires...

You'll need a 12v switched for the remote wire from the headunit to the amplifier.

You'll need a 12v constant run from the amp to the battery (with inline fuse)

And obviously a ground wire...

It's really simple.

 

Actually it isn't that easy Brian IF you have the Bose system. There are differing reports and I don't know which Steve did...but the LOC location is in dispute. It is either before or after the Bose amp because of how the line voltage is.

 

Run it after the amp to have better voltage.

If you run it before you will have a weak signal. It is the same way with my Sony Audiophile system in my ST.

If you run it after the Bose amp you won't have to crank the gain all the way up on the aftermarket amplifier.

 

If I remember correctly that meant that when you shut the door your amp kicks on and doesn't shut off.

 

THE LOC would have nothing to do with the amp turning on and off.

That's what the remote wire is for. Hook that to a 12v switched wire, so if the radio is on it will be on (ex: key in ignition on aux) With the key out the 12v switched wire will not have power. Without power from the remote wire to the amp, the amp will turn off.

 

Maybe Im confusing with the autosensing LOC. It's been a long day already.

 

Yeah, I forgive you though

 

Another key note: I guess it really all depends on how much you want to spend....

I am under the assumption that the speaker install will be on the low end of the cost spectrum (partially due to the fact that a cherry bomb was mentioned at one point.....)

An autosensing LOC will cost much more then a standard $20 Plug and play LOC you could get al WalMart.... But the tradeoff is that you will get much better sound quality. Another nice feature is that you won't have to run the 12v switched wire to the amp (remote) from the headunit because the autosensing LOC has a 12v switched output on it that recieves signal from the speaker wires.

 

Well... I'll be making another DIY (probably tonight).
But I have a teaser for all you guys:

 

Do not want!

 

You never had to drive with an OBD-II dongle hitting your left leg

 

hehehe, you said dong

Very interested to see the relocation DIY. I wasn't sure if that's what you were going for. I assumed you may have already done it from the picture.

Good luck!

Now, what would be real slick is, if you ran the dongle wires behind the dash and had the plug come out to the OBD II port, all nice clean and hidden.

 

Here's my guess....

DIY: How to Vacuum Your Floor Mats

 

yea i dont have to much money so best for the money on the low end of things i mean working on a family campground doesnt really pay well but i guess it has its advantages lol

 

Random question here based off of this statement if it costs $80 for a Mazda dealership to look at a car......about a year ago my power steering died and I took it to the dealership they found nothing wrong after looking at it for 2 hours and it started working again (Jon gave me a thread to fix the connector thanks) Does that mean I found a Mazda dealership that doesn't charge? Or because they didn't find anything they don't charge? Or did I just peace outta there without paying on accident and they never figured it out......?

 

I think that they have to find the problem for them to bill you for the diagnostics.