Alright you guys twisted my arm long enough. I ordered the pump, this morning. And I'm confident I can get it installed myself. Although I dont know if this confidence is good or bad. Thanks for the input and help guys.

 

One more thing, the reason I'm doing this is I'd like to give my car a shot at the Autocross, and I've heard this is a good thing to have for the autocross for a cooler/healthier engine? However our autocross isnt that professional. It is a track of cones and etc. Lots of twisties, so the most you really ever get up to speed is maybe 80. I'm assuming the pump is a great investment for this kinda thing, especially in the heat. Or do you think its just overkill? I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

Hi Quaz,

Thanks for your order. We appreciate your business. I strongly recommend the thermostat to compliment the pump and since you're auto our second cooler kit (Genuine Mazda) would be quite wise as well.

http://www.mazmart.com/ItemDetail.aspx?id=317

Paul.

 

Is the thermostat an easy instal?

 

I just tried to purchase the thermostat. says its out of stock?

 

Sheldon (Mazmart "6") will PM you with some discounts. Don't try the site again for the T-Stat.
The thermostats are in stock and we are updating the quantity in the store.

Paul.

 

PM sent. Thanks.

-Sheldon.

 

PM sent back to Sheldon, and Money sent for Thermostat. Thanks guys.

 

One more dumb question. Does the thermostat and water pump trigger a CEL once installed? Just preparing.

 

Nope! Thanks for asking though.

Paul.

 

this water pump rocks!
Been running it for some time now and couldn't be happier with how quickly the temps can drop.

Quaz: you made a very wise investment.

 

Looking forward to this mod!

Thanks for all your curtious help for a learner.

 

Now I'm looking for some directions. I know where it goes. However I was looking for some procedures on getting the air out the lines, etc, and any other tips/directions for this instal.
Also would I need to drain and refill the radiator while I'm doing this?

 

I'd recommend going over the last 2 pages of this thread for various tips and the 3places that a link to Mazda's directions for water pump, thermostsat and coolant replacement is given. You will have to drain your coolant and I do recommend distilled water with your mix to go back in. Remove the old thermostat and install the new putting the bleed nipple in the area indicated by the indentation.The system should be filled as slowly as you can afford the time to do it (Reducing the potential for air). Try to ensure that the car can be run to operating temperature and cooled back down to see if there's a drop in levels. I like to burp the system by squeeezing the hoses during fill up. I hope that and these pics help a bit more.

Paul.

 

Make sure your car's head is up, it makes burping air a lot easier.

of course, you can do what Paul told ya to (squeeze the lines)

 

Everyone say a prayer for me, tomorrow I'm going to give the thermostat and pump the instal. Pray that I dont wreck things. You think I could get by draining the coolant in just the radiator? Or you think I should drain the engine too? I'm a little nervous, so If I can get by with not doing something I will.

 

You can do it .

-Sheldon.

 

G-Luck w/ the install Quaz!

 

I'm a praying man so I got your back .

Paul.

 

I dont know if this is normal or not, but we got everything installed. Added coolant, let it warm up, idled, then reved to 2500 RPM for 5 mins, Coolant level went down fast. Turned off car. went to add coolant and the level seemed to go back up to Full. Turned car back on. Idled. Then reved to 2500 again for a couple mins, (coolant level fine) then Reved up to 3000 for 5 mins and there was some bobbled on the top brim of the coolant resivour. So I shut it down. And now the fans have been running for 10 mins so far with the car turned off. Never had that happen before. What's happening?

 

Fans finally turned off, Coolant level just a bit low, added a tiny bit more back to full. Not sure if i should turn on again or not.

 

Heres something strange as well. When I rev for 5 mins to 2500 its fine. Coolant drops maybe an 8th an inch. But when I rev up to 3500, it revs for 3500 for about min, and the RPMS drop to idle. I know its not my foot letting off, because it happened twice. Revs constant at 3500 for roughly a minute, then RPMS drop to idle. 750ish/800ish. Car never dies though.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/getting-air-out-coolant-change-174151/

I started another thread on the car situation, didnt want to take up all of Mazmarts thread here with my issues.

 

As mention in the other thread, my car did the exact same thing at 3500rpm.

If you have fans put them infront of the car for gettign better airflow the cooler or do it when its cold outside.

I did the procedure for ~40min, filled up 3-4 times during, then I took a slow testdrive and stopped often and checked the level.

 

There are all kinds of equipment that the pros use to make this job easier and quicker: There are funnels that will screw on to the fill tank, there are vacuum/pressure systems that eliminate air getting trapped in the system. One of the ways that Mazda has described before is filling very slowly. I would add to that, attempting to 'burp' the system as I said before by squeezing the hoses while filling. When it appears full, try 'burping' it and observe any air being released and level decrease. Start the car and run it with the cap off at first as you attempt to get temps up a bit. Having someone to observe temps as you work is very helpful. With rpm in the 2k range you should touch the outlet hose for an indication of warm to hot feel indicating that the thermostat has opened. At this time a little more coolant may be able to be poured in. When you have any doubts, let it cool off and re-check levels. On some vehicles it's an art in filling, touching, burping and capping off at the appropriate time.

I don't know if I was helpful at all.

Paul.