Official NTX Rotary Lounge
Brandon,
I would check that your front calipers are not binding. Mine were doing something similar before I pulled the motor to put the new motor in and I found that one of my front calipers is seized. I actually got it unfrozen but I will be rebuilding both front calipers before the car is back on the road because they have 127,000 miles on them.
You might as well get new rotors, SS lines and pads instead of wasting money on a AFE SS. As for the transmission, swap out the fluid (use factory fill, not redline, RP, etc.) and see how she rides then.
I doubt it is your Teins, I sent mine to Tein thinking they were sagging and they tested fine and are actually on SWG's car now. My issue ended up being the shocks and installing new KYB shocks and a brand new set of Teins (didn't want to wait for Tein to test and send mine back) fixed that problem.
Also this may sound dumb but there was actually a TSB from Mazda about clunking in the wheels that was actually remedied by increasing the torque specs of the lug nuts to 108ft/lbs.
I would check that your front calipers are not binding. Mine were doing something similar before I pulled the motor to put the new motor in and I found that one of my front calipers is seized. I actually got it unfrozen but I will be rebuilding both front calipers before the car is back on the road because they have 127,000 miles on them.
You might as well get new rotors, SS lines and pads instead of wasting money on a AFE SS. As for the transmission, swap out the fluid (use factory fill, not redline, RP, etc.) and see how she rides then.
I doubt it is your Teins, I sent mine to Tein thinking they were sagging and they tested fine and are actually on SWG's car now. My issue ended up being the shocks and installing new KYB shocks and a brand new set of Teins (didn't want to wait for Tein to test and send mine back) fixed that problem.
Also this may sound dumb but there was actually a TSB from Mazda about clunking in the wheels that was actually remedied by increasing the torque specs of the lug nuts to 108ft/lbs.
As for my brakes I think I will order some new brake pads, and I suppose rotors? I mean I only have like <60,000 miles on them, I think I can hold out still... we will see soon.
Might as well, idk I wouldnt mind having a lightweight flywheel, it makes it more fun. And you do realize that reducing rotational mass is far greater that static mass. i.e. why you feel a weight difference when you buy lightweight wheels and tires. so the 3.4lbs that you actually save is multiplied x3. Lot more weight than you think and its all related to drivetrain. Im gonna keep the flywheel on the list lol.
I have the act prolite when you throw the counterweight on its 3-4 lbs less at best.
On a older car like my 300z it shaved off 13 lbs. that was noticeable.
the BHR flywheel is 9 lbs not including the counterweight. You are really only shaving off like 4 or 5 lbs. All it really does is make stop and go driving a bitch, you aren't going to notice it.
That $540 could be spent elsewhere for sure.
But it's your money do what you want, I got a lightweight flywheel simply becuase I found a used one for a killer price and thought why not!
Good luck!
On a older car like my 300z it shaved off 13 lbs. that was noticeable.
the BHR flywheel is 9 lbs not including the counterweight. You are really only shaving off like 4 or 5 lbs. All it really does is make stop and go driving a bitch, you aren't going to notice it.
That $540 could be spent elsewhere for sure.
But it's your money do what you want, I got a lightweight flywheel simply becuase I found a used one for a killer price and thought why not!
Good luck!
Well duh, if it started happening after you installed the sway bar then it is likely binding or it is the end links. As for your brakes, 60,000 miles is a lot considering how hard you drive your car. Look up rotorpros, for about what you would spend on the AFE, you can get four slotted and dimpled rotors with ceramic pads.
I have the act prolite when you throw the counterweight on its 3-4 lbs less at best.
On a older car like my 300z it shaved off 13 lbs. that was noticeable.
the BHR flywheel is 9 lbs not including the counterweight. You are really only shaving off like 4 or 5 lbs. All it really does is make stop and go driving a bitch, you aren't going to notice it.
That $540 could be spent elsewhere for sure.
But it's your money do what you want, I got a lightweight flywheel simply becuase I found a used one for a killer price and thought why not!
Good luck!
On a older car like my 300z it shaved off 13 lbs. that was noticeable.
the BHR flywheel is 9 lbs not including the counterweight. You are really only shaving off like 4 or 5 lbs. All it really does is make stop and go driving a bitch, you aren't going to notice it.
That $540 could be spent elsewhere for sure.
But it's your money do what you want, I got a lightweight flywheel simply becuase I found a used one for a killer price and thought why not!
Good luck!
But you do realize we are RX-8 owners. Take a gander at my Mods that are supposed to give me "Power" and look how much they cost. Lol I know my Exhaust and intake dont give me much but I threw down the cash anyways.
To be honest recently ive been pretty absent in terms of the RX8 community and my car itself. I want to find another reason why I love this car. Yes I know the tranny is fragile and like glass but its really a marvel in itself. Its an amazing transmission to be so fluid and handle 9krpms without weighing an extraordinary amount. You have to give it some credit, the S2 tranny is even better (found in Miata as well right?).
Ultimately im a car enthusiast and will justify paying for virtually anything for this car haha and I feel many of yall feel the same way. I want to Mod!!!
Well duh, if it started happening after you installed the sway bar then it is likely binding or it is the end links. As for your brakes, 60,000 miles is a lot considering how hard you drive your car. Look up rotorpros, for about what you would spend on the AFE, you can get four slotted and dimpled rotors with ceramic pads.
Bold is true. I do think I should get some new Rotors. Rotorpros are pretty good, im going to give them a through review, sounds like a good solid choice for the money strapped college student... yet at the same time I have a tendency to try and buy the best quality products like Racing Brake, they weigh less than OEM rotors and I am going to be autocrossing as well, any help in weight loss especially in that area is a HUGE GAIN.
I will look into both options, appreciate it Scott. If worst comes to worst I can hold out on brakes (as dangerous as that sounds muahaha
) I dont drive too much anymore cus of the roads where I live (Arlington roads = lol) so not too much mileage. I think im going to try and rebed the brakes again, its apparently very important to keep your brakes "burnished" so they are in "top" condition.
Antonio
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
I just had a new clutch put in by Rotary Performance. The new clutch is alot softer than my old one, anyone know if thats the way it's supposed to feeel?
Last edited by Antonio; Oct 24, 2011 at 01:48 PM.
I will check the endlinks... Ill try to tighten them but as for binding what exactly do you mean?
Bold is true. I do think I should get some new Rotors. Rotorpros are pretty good, im going to give them a through review, sounds like a good solid choice for the money strapped college student... yet at the same time I have a tendency to try and buy the best quality products like Racing Brake, they weigh less than OEM rotors and I am going to be autocrossing as well, any help in weight loss especially in that area is a HUGE GAIN.
I will look into both options, appreciate it Scott. If worst comes to worst I can hold out on brakes (as dangerous as that sounds muahaha
) I dont drive too much anymore cus of the roads where I live (Arlington roads = lol) so not too much mileage. I think im going to try and rebed the brakes again, its apparently very important to keep your brakes "burnished" so they are in "top" condition.By binding I mean did you grease the bushings for the sway bar? Do the progress sways have zirc fittings so you can grease them? if they are not properly greased they will bind and make noise. Also the endlinks need to be tight.
But if you really like that it should be easy enough to trace out.
Get the pattern you want mark inside the pattern about a half inch in. get a jig saw cut that out then get a dremel to finish the inside.
get a 3" speaker and run wire from the rear 6x9" mount the speaker using the bottom 2 apexs of the triangle.
Purchase some finishing material spray paint it silver with a satin clear coat and place the finishers around the triangle...
Thats my best guess, without much thought given to it.
The Rotorpros are centric (good) rotors and when I weighed them they were the same as the stock rotors.
By binding I mean did you grease the bushings for the sway bar? Do the progress sways have zirc fittings so you can grease them? if they are not properly greased they will bind and make noise. Also the endlinks need to be tight.
By binding I mean did you grease the bushings for the sway bar? Do the progress sways have zirc fittings so you can grease them? if they are not properly greased they will bind and make noise. Also the endlinks need to be tight.
As for binding... No. I used alot of grease when I put these sways on, but its to note that I didnt put any grease on the rears and this problem is coming from the front, weird.
I will try tightening my Endlinks when I get the next chance, who knows when that could be. Hopefully this solves my issue.
Hellz Yea...
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Weatherford, Texas
Hellz Yea...
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Weatherford, Texas
the spotting on the rotors is caused from overheating of the rotors/pads..... you might have a "flapper" in the brake lines or your calipers are sticking
the knocking is your shocks going out, i have the same problem with my rear shocks
the knocking is your shocks going out, i have the same problem with my rear shocks
As for the knocking I was thinking about taking apart my suspension and sending them back to Koni to rebuild/revalve to make sure they are not blown. My front end has been starting to sag more and more which is why I initially thought it was my springs. Sigh... This is starting to look like a little weekend project. Might as well paint the calipers lol...
Im probably gonna buy some Progress Tech springs then take apart my suspension and send the Koni Yellows back to Koni to rebuild them and hopefully have them put in a adjustable rod like the D specs, I have heard of Koni doing this before for the Yellows. Ill have to find the thread where they adjusted the Koni's and made "extension cables" so you wouldnt have to compress the rear of the shock to adjust it.
Anyone know by chance where that thread is?
EDIT: Found https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-racing-25/09-shocks-side-side-comparison-04-08-a-173887/
Last edited by WTBRotary!; Oct 24, 2011 at 06:01 PM.
When you work on your car problems tend to arise and I like to speak more freely about them than some others which makes it seem like I always have problems. I dont, and most of them are shop errors from Mazda (transmission). Just fixing up the car lol...
I have tons of Issues I just don't pay attention too...
Rattles and clicks? Well that just means the music isn't loud enough!
The reality is my car is a daily driver, its 7 years old and has a rotary engine. essentially isa ticking time bomb.
Rattles and clicks? Well that just means the music isn't loud enough!
The reality is my car is a daily driver, its 7 years old and has a rotary engine. essentially isa ticking time bomb.
Then get your *** out here and show me how to work on cars lol.
Actually I would like your help if you are coming in town sometime soon. A pretty big project is coming soon and im gonna need some help. Wouldnt mind ya around if you can ever find your way out of that desert.
Little weekend project: TBD lol
. We will see...
Picked up the Optima Redtop today because my old battery was dying on me. Upon installation the car feels immediately better with the Redtop. Good upgrade but I would like to look into a better battery harness or relocate the battery because the regular harness doesnt look like its going to keep the battery too long.
Actually I would like your help if you are coming in town sometime soon. A pretty big project is coming soon and im gonna need some help. Wouldnt mind ya around if you can ever find your way out of that desert.
Little weekend project: TBD lol
- RacingBrake Sport One-Piece Slotted Brake Rotors F/R
- Hawk HP+ brake pads
- RR Clutch Petal Reinforcement
- Optima Redtop 35
- custom spring rate eibach or hypercoil springs * Looking into this
- G2 caliper paint - black.
. We will see...Picked up the Optima Redtop today because my old battery was dying on me. Upon installation the car feels immediately better with the Redtop. Good upgrade but I would like to look into a better battery harness or relocate the battery because the regular harness doesnt look like its going to keep the battery too long.
Last edited by WTBRotary!; Oct 24, 2011 at 08:22 PM.
meh.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,658
Likes: 0
From: fwb, fl
thats a pretty big list man. ill be in town for thanksgiving week. should have quite a bit of free time. we can knock it out then. if i need to bring any tools let me know ahead of time. ive got quite a few good ones now.