Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
(Post 2986022)
I knew I missed some posts.
Carbon and Swoope, you guys crack me up! :lol: r0tor - I'm planning to sell them for 2 months at the GB price. -John and check you pp. i changed the rules! everyone wins. :) beers :beer: |
Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...
I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix. 1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals. 2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading. Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?. Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?. Ash |
is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
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Originally Posted by swoope
(Post 2986037)
yea,
and check you pp. i changed the rules! everyone wins. :) beers :beer:
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 2986057)
Anyway, just a thought on TR-01 use...
I think for owners of John's TR-01 Comp Tester who Pre-Mix should cease doing so BEFORE you do your test, for a few reasons, and I think much would depend on how much you pre-mix. 1. It may not give you a 100% accurate reading as "well lubricated" seals could mask the real condition of your Apex, Side and Corner Seals. 2. For Heavy Pre-Mixer's you also don't want any of the 2 stroke oil contaminating the TR-01 Sensor as it may shorten it's life, gunk it up, and again give an inaccurate reading. Perhaps John could confirm if 2 stroke oil would damage Sensor?. Perhaps Kevin could verify if Pre-Mixing should be temporarily stopped before you take a Compression Reading?. Ash As for the 2 stroke oil, there shouldn't be enough left in the combustion chamber to work it's way into the sensor. But if it did somehow work it's way into the sensor then it can be cleaned by spraying some carb cleaner into the adapter opening. These sensors use a stainless steel diaphragm and would just as happily measure 2 stroke oil or fuel under pressure as anything else!
Originally Posted by Texak
(Post 2986235)
is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
-John |
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Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed. :)
-John |
Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
(Post 2986523)
Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered, and that bought all the sensors in stock. At this time the estimated ship date for more sensors is May 15th. Fortunately the majority of the parts are here in the US and should arrive next week. The units can then be assembled and tested while waiting for the LCD's to arrive from China. Just wanted to keep everyone informed. :)
-John |
Originally Posted by Texak
(Post 2986235)
is fuel injected during the cranking test? I thought the fuel was cut?
I guess when you remove your Spark Plugs it will give you a visual indication on how much 2 stroke may be present?. |
Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
(Post 2986523)
Awlright, the parts for the first 14 units have been ordered,
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Originally Posted by Phil's 8
(Post 2986936)
Sounds like about three weeks to shipping (I think) for the first batch.
-John |
I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.
Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case. |
Originally Posted by GaMEChld
(Post 2988289)
I think I'll nab one of these. A few tests and it's paid for itself, not including if it catches a problem early on.
Just a question, this goes in a spark plug opening? Does it matter if you put it in a leading or trailing hole? I can't imagine it would make a difference, but just in case. -John |
I'm sold. Put me down for blue. Will paypal shortly.
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Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
(Post 2988737)
The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John I can confirm the directions I posted are taken from the 2009 USA Mazda RX-8 Factory Workshop Manual, the directions are identical for the Series I and II. The only thing I altered was to include the 'TR-01' as the Compression Testing Tool to use, not the Mazda Factory Unit. Ash |
Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
(Post 2983808)
Dead volume has been calculated and the correction factors are listed below. I decided not to code in an automatic correction as the number varies slightly depending on the engine type. For reference the internal volume of the sensor (with adapter) is 2.85cc. To correct for the sensor dead volume just multiply your readings by the correction number appropriate for your engine.
Engine Year Ratio Correction 12A 76-82 9.4 1.042 12A 83-85 9.4 1.042 13B 74-78 9.2 1.035 13B 84-85 9.4 1.036 13B N/T 86-88 9.4 1.036 13B T 86-88 8.5 1.032 13B N/T 89-92 9.7 1.038 13B T 89-92 9.0 1.034 13B T/T 93-95 9.0 1.034 13B Ren 04-on 10.0 1.039 |
because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead ;)
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Ya, I think he originated from RX7's, so if he was going to go with one engine as the standard, it'd probably be 13B-REW. Though I do think he might as well have made it accurate for one engine, because that would be one less group of engines that would need to use a correction factor. But in the end, I bet it makes for less labor and thus less cost for us. I have a calculator on my phone anyway, so whatever :P
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Originally Posted by neit_jnf
(Post 2989863)
because I have a 13B-REW and I want to read it directly and let you calculate yours so set it to 3.4% instead ;)
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Any idea what the price will be a little later? I was planning to buy this when you came out with it but it's a bit early for me to fork out 300 bucks at the moment. Will have more money to spend in the summer.
Btw, did you compare it to the factory compression tester for comparison values? (we talked about that in another thread) |
Concerning the correction factor, it's really not a big enough issue to implement an automatic correction. I included them to try and help give the most accurate reading possible. It really comes down to only ~3-4psi. When I check an engine I don't bother with a calculator, I just add 4 psi and go with that.
My tester has not yet been compared to a factory tester. I do still plan to do that in the future, if/when I gain access to a mazda tester. On a side note, I used my old prototype to test a friends FD this past weekend. The car had been running rough but would start fairly easily. I thought it sounded ok at idle, but he knows his car a lot better than I. Tests of the rear rotor were in the high 80's range (after correction) but the front rotor read 70, 40, 45. :tear: I tried to get a video, but it was dark out and my little camera just wasn't cutting it. -John |
Originally Posted by TwistedRotors
(Post 2988737)
Yep, disable your ignition by pulling the crank positioning sensor and thread the sensor in place of a spark plug and it shouldn't make a difference which plug you do. The directions that Ash8 posted up appear to be taken from the RX-8 FSM which says you can do either leading or trailing.
-John |
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Little update:
I've received all the LCD's, turns out that the "fast boat from china" is actually a plane. :-P And now that it's stopped flooding here I should get most of the components to start putting units together. Will post again later. -John |
Oh wow, you are selling these cheaper than I thought you would be. I need to order one as well just in case.
My results were ~110 psi on every face of both rotors. This was at 20,000 and 26,000 miles on the car. I figured I'd throw this in the group buy thread so everyone has some sort of base line. Edit: I was the tester for RX-8's. |
I sent you pm but never got an answer????
let me know Thank you |
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