ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

$6000?!?!?! you better get a top-shape TII for that money!

a good condition NA S4 can be had for 2000-ish if you look around....

good luck with your car search!

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

phew. even better. i havent 100% decided to go with NA or TURBO II yet, i have a year to decide. ill think it out. thanks for your help guys!

ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

go check out www.teamfc3s.org if you are really interested in the FC. One of the best technically focused site/forum for the FC that I know of.

spool up

I've owned all three cars. First a 1991 Turbo II then a 1993 Base Model and now a 2004 RX-8 GT. I would start out with a FC as they're fairly simple and easy to work on. When I first got my FD, it had problems with the turbos. I sat there for about two hours just staring at the rats nest after I took the upper intake manifold because it was overwhelming. But after a while, you figure out what is what, and I had the car running perfect in two days (Had to fix turbos, a/c, power steering, and some other small stuff too). I think after a while, none of them is much harder to work on than the others. I've done around three motor swaps (one FC, two FD's), tranny swaps, made a wiring harness, blah, blah blah, and it's all the same. You just have to get used to whatever platform you decide on. But until you gain a little mechanical know-how, go for the FC. And make sure you have a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm and a 19mm socket. haha.

I agree with whoever said it earlier that FD's are really that much maintence. After I got all the problems worked out from the pervious owner on my FD, I never had to fix anything. I think the reason people break them so much is because they're into drag racing them which I just can't stand.

Which one should you buy.....I love them all just as much. If I could own all three at once I would. I think I miss my FC the most though. It was one of a kind.

Here's some pics of my babies.....

Rick

not to burst any bubbles but a FD can be reliable.I know this because my 94 FD w/22k miles and 300+rwhp has never needed a repair. Now, I know that I'm not just lucky because my 04 RX-8 w/12k miles has been in the shop for one repair and my 05 Ford f350 PSD w/ 1300 miles on it has been in the shop three times for three different repairs.

SantozRx8

22K miles isn't that much, neither is 12K, definitely not 1300 miles, i dont think you can judge reliability from mileage that low.....

Ike

Wow, 22,000 whole miles huh...

spool up

Yea, my fd made 290rwhp at stock boost (.7 bar) and 310 at .9 bar and I never had a single problem. Always ran perfect. Then again, the kid I sold it to aparantly blew out the turbos, which goes to show that it's all about the owner. You just have to have an understanding of the car and know how to drive it. I kind of like the fact that people don't think they're reliable. It will just make it easier for me to pick up another one on two years. The reason they blow up all the time is because people in the United States don't understand the importance of good tuning. I can't tell you how many people I know on the rx7club who have FMICs, full exhaust, high boost and no tuning (a lot of times a completely stock ECU). I don't believe in buying a chip for your car because even if you have the exact same modifications as what they say the chip is for, it's not going to be that good. I think the first thing you should do when you get an FD is get a Apex'i Power FC. That's your most important modifcation. And once you get it, take it somewhere creditable to get it tuned. I love to do all my own work, but I know I don't have enough experience with tuning so I took it to Rotary Performance in Garland, TX and they did a great job.

Clin10

That is true, and I believe what you have said about it being reliable. Every FD I found for sale had at the most, one modification on it. and I don't really want a Miata and I ruled out my other choice which is just as rare, which is a Mkii MR2 Turbo (preferally a '91 or '92 model) because I may need back seats. and I didn't mean anything about the redlining, I am just used to my uncle's old G20, which has enough torque, but he has to redline it to climb the hill to my doctors, but the Automaics have no problem. I am willing to spend around $7,000 on a good TurboII (yeah, $7,000, I want a one owner, mint stock FC if that is even possible in this world). I lso want to see if I can gain a sponsor, like TurboTrix Racing-Import Specialists unless there is a rotary-relted place around. and TurboTrix is the reason that I want an FC also, because I don't want to go through the fuss of setting up an N/A 13B for a Turbo, so I thought that I might as well go with a TurboII.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

im actually scared of tuning since i have no idea how to. before i do anything stupid like that i would proobably go to a turboshop ask around if its OK to do w/e then maybe just maybe i would do it by myself. does anyone know about how much would a FC Turbo II cost used?

spool up

I paid $6000 for mine with 72k miles on the chasis and 2k miles on a new reman. That's on the expensive side, but then again, you'll probably never find one in as good of condition as mine. When my friends were here from Japan, they said they've never even seen one that clean on the streets in Saitama or Tokyo.

Rick

Well, my last two Chevy trucks needed transmissions and many other little parts before the 100K mile mark.
The FD may not have a lot of miles on it but it is 11 years old with 0 problems and my other cars are new and have already had repairs.

Rick

22k miles of spirited driving. For example this last weekend I drove it 80 miles to the track, got four runs in, then drove it 80 miles back home.

boothguy

I've got 225k on my '86 FC, 94k on my '94 FD and 12,500 on my '04 FE. These can be extremely reliable cars if you don't abuse them - just as with any make. The key is to understand that the rotary makes a lot of heat, compared to a piston engine. Adding a turbocharger increases the heat significantly. And heats kills underhood components made out of plastic. The plastic gets brittle and breaks. It's' also hell on rubber O-rings - which Mazda uses extensively in the engine itself and in ancillary components. If money were truly no object, it would be best to start with the 8. It's going to be easier to maintain, and it's a much more forgiving car to drive than the FD. I would definitely not recommend an FD as a first car for anyone who has not done a lot of racing in Karts, say... and is emotionally more mature than most 16-18-year-olds. It's just too high performance and a new driver will get in over his/her head the first week.

Clin10

oh boy.....it is in the most worse shape, I showed my mom it and we got to look inside it and try, repeat, TRY to start it. I turned the key and it cranked once and started beeping. It beeped about 7 times and each time I turned the key it beeped each time. I opened the hood (My mom had to find the hood latch for me) and as I seen the N/A 13B, it did look good, but had spider webs in it, which explains why it didn't start. The trunk was stuck and I couldn't open it. So I sat in the driver's seat and felt for the power window button for the driver's side.....it wasn't there, lol. It had a big dent in the front driver fender, a bit of paint near the Mazda pop-out on the nose, and a rust fold above the top of the door fold. I wanted to hear the 13B but unfortunately it did not want to turn over.

Options it had:
Power Windows (Window...)
looked like GTU rims (they were stock)
spider webs, lol
Power Sunroof
5-speed manual
(those are all that I have seen in it)
it was $995 and now I know why...

TwitchFD

ive owned an FD and an 8.... and oh my god the 8 is much less of a hastle

although if your looking for brutal speed, and money is in good flow, buy an FD BUT MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DAILY DRIVER TO GO ALONG WITH IT

BlueBandit05

i got my 8 at 18 as my second car also as reward for a scholarship($110k total)and i pay for insurance and gas but not payments


and my Q for u is this... if u dont plan on racing wouldnt the rx8 have PLENTY enough power? i wanted an FD but it was just not economical for a regular driver... im not experienced enough for it neway... i dont see why you need something with sooo much power potential(and much higher insurance b/c of 2doors and 2seats) if your not going to race at all?

Ness

Sorry for bumping up an old post.

Anyways I'm new to these forums, so first I wanna say hello to everyone. I found myself in a similiar situation. I just graduated last week and my parents promised to get me my own car sometime in next year. They are willing to do so because I got into a good college and basically paid the first year off in scholarships.

They want me to get a new car, they are fine with me getting an 8. I would love to have an 8, but I still cant take my eyes off of an FD. The look is drop dead gorgeous even after so many years although the 8 is not far behind. Dad is reluctant to get a used car, but I'll probably be able to convince him if I find a good condition 7. (Actually there is an original seller here in my area with a '93 FD touring with 15k miles on it for 20k) He is worried about maintanence on it. This car will not technically be my first car, as I have driven myself daily for almost 2 years. Heck, I put more than 2/3 of the miles on my dad's SUV. Because I'll be going to college, I won't be driving daily, maybe twice a month and during the breaks. I just want a fun car to go out and enjoy the beautiful weather around here.

I'm sure quite a few of you guys have asked this: Go straight for the FD or get the 8 first?

RX Renesis

lol u get into a collage and u get a car... lol... i need to get into a univercity to get a car... lol.... if the deal was me get into collage and get a car i'd be driving my dream car by now.... but either way.... good luck with collage and the car u like....

Ness

Theres difference between university and college? :p

Going to University of California Berkeley in the fall. Go Golden Bears :D

RX Renesis

in a asian family.... collage is consider 1 step lower than university.... so.... there may not be a difference to u but to asian families... there is....

Dinhx8

my vote is get the rx8. Or redefine exactly what you want- all the adivce you've gotten on this thread I think are helpful, but you say you want to 'learn about the rotary'. but also are afraid of repair costs. Then say you are afraid of tuning. What exactly do you want to 'learn' about the rotary? If you are planning on learing on how to mod it (but you say you are afraid) then gettin an older FC would be good I guess. The other thing you mention is that you want to get an FC, maybe move to FD, then the 8.....
While I don't question your drive or successes in anyway, and only wish the best, especially with school ahead, its not as easy as it sounds to just buy cars every few years. **** always happens, you'll want some other stuff, TVS, you'll move out, all kinds of stuff that cost money. To me, I'd get a nice car now, and not worry about stuff for a while. But to each his own.

But if you are afraid of repair bills, I'd say get a car that has a warranty, that being an 8. By the time you're out of school and have a job, the 8 will have just left its warranty. But its up to you ultimately, just my .02..good luck with the decision nonetheless.....

larazaunida

my vote...get a turbed FC, its not that much power to handle so I would not worry too much. After that I would....well who knows what in the hell will be out in 2 years. More than likely a new 7 will be shown or the new 8 and you will start to second guess. It will more than likely be prolonged to 3 years or so. Get the FC then wait to see what is on the market.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

ive decided on maybe getting a Impreza WRX or maybe an 8. by saying im scared of turning, i mean im scared that i might mess something up real bad and ill be in deep ****. i still got plenty of time to decide though (1 or more years). thanks for your helps guys. but i have to say this again, what ever car im getting WILL NOT be my daily driver, i assume ill put a maximum of around 5000-7000 miles on it a year. i live in NYC and as you guys know theres lots of public transportation and its cheaper than driving. and if i really do need to drive ill be driving parents MPV or Infiniti QX4. so its going to be a fun car that i can drive when its nice out or a car that i can mess around with. if i get a car ill probably be tuning it after 4-5 years of owning it. i do not plan on spending big bucks for the few 1-4 years otehr than regular maintance.

StealthFox

you've been brainwashed by those FD ****'s at rx7 club, while FDs are unreliable pieces of ****, but you dont need a rebuild under 50k miles, well taken care of they last 125 fine. and they arent blindingly amazing fast, its not like you'll be taking a big step up graduating from an rx8 to a stock old FD. now, if your talking about a 6,000 dollar turbo swap, major tuning, you're talking about a seriously dangerous car for a 16 year old to be driving, but stock FD's can be made plenty docile to daily drive, there are quite a few people at RX-7 club that daily drive them. as soon as you get one, go in and get it rehosed, get an alum AST, RAD, as well as set up a boost controller, aside from basic auto maintenance. check compression ratio and 3k rpm boost hesitation and the behaviour of the turbos. also make sure to spend your time at RX-7 club because thats a real technical site wher you can learn a lot about rotaries, this site is mostly for b/s and stuff, general modification chat, and only if you have an rx8 really, i'll catch you around rx7 club if you need help.