RIWWP's Mazdaspeed Miata build
08-11-2014, 11:35 AM
#177
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That problem ^ was just having the MBC all the way down. Pinches off the bleed holes or something. Turning it back up just off the bottom made that problem disappear.
This past weekend I pulled the turbo and upgraded the studs to iconel. No pictures because well, it's just the turbo out, then in again. One more thing I won't have to worry about breaking on track.
Also installed the AEM wideband. It is confirming that I'm still richer than I should be (10s). I suspect I may have pinched the vacuum line to the gauge, so I'll have to be re-running that i think. At first, I was in boost and the gauge was still reading 0, then it finally lurched up to 5psi. That might have been the pressure in the line un-kinking something. Boost is showing 5.7psi at full throttle, but not sure if i can trust that yet if the signal line had a problem with it.
This past weekend I pulled the turbo and upgraded the studs to iconel. No pictures because well, it's just the turbo out, then in again. One more thing I won't have to worry about breaking on track.
Also installed the AEM wideband. It is confirming that I'm still richer than I should be (10s). I suspect I may have pinched the vacuum line to the gauge, so I'll have to be re-running that i think. At first, I was in boost and the gauge was still reading 0, then it finally lurched up to 5psi. That might have been the pressure in the line un-kinking something. Boost is showing 5.7psi at full throttle, but not sure if i can trust that yet if the signal line had a problem with it.
08-21-2014, 07:27 AM
#178
That engine bay looks clean, but that motor seems gutless compared to the vette engines people cram in there. Oh, and autotragic
For $29,000, This 1991 Mazda Miata Has A Surprising V8
For $29,000, This 1991 Mazda Miata Has A Surprising V8
08-21-2014, 09:18 AM
#179
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Flyin Miata (Inconel 718 turbo stud), though there are a few different vendors that sell them, each with their own 'exclusive' source. These are M8, which are probably smaller than what you might look for. Here are some M10 versions.
For a number of years, turbocharged track Miatas were breaking/stripping studs once the drivers were fast enough to exceed roughly the Spec Miata record lap times (a standard of speed trying to weed out people that claimed "no issues", revealing that they just weren't fast enough yet). The heat + vibration + thermal expansion cycles + lateral loads on a turbo hanging off the side of the manifold were basically just pulling the stud threads and stretching them until the threads would simple no longer be able to grip either the manifold or the turbine housing. The top two fastest turbocharged Miatas at the time could get only a single track session out of a set of brand new SS studs. They would remain tight as long as the turbine temps could stay up, but as soon as they cooled off over about 15 minutes, you could rotate the studs by hand. High torque values were tried, and that typically resulted in just breaking the studs in half the track time, and not waiting for a cooling cycle.
Iconel ended up being the solution.
I'm no where near the risky speeds yet, but I'd far rather remove intact studs than stripped/broken ones.
For a number of years, turbocharged track Miatas were breaking/stripping studs once the drivers were fast enough to exceed roughly the Spec Miata record lap times (a standard of speed trying to weed out people that claimed "no issues", revealing that they just weren't fast enough yet). The heat + vibration + thermal expansion cycles + lateral loads on a turbo hanging off the side of the manifold were basically just pulling the stud threads and stretching them until the threads would simple no longer be able to grip either the manifold or the turbine housing. The top two fastest turbocharged Miatas at the time could get only a single track session out of a set of brand new SS studs. They would remain tight as long as the turbine temps could stay up, but as soon as they cooled off over about 15 minutes, you could rotate the studs by hand. High torque values were tried, and that typically resulted in just breaking the studs in half the track time, and not waiting for a cooling cycle.
Iconel ended up being the solution.
I'm no where near the risky speeds yet, but I'd far rather remove intact studs than stripped/broken ones.
Last edited by RIWWP; 08-21-2014 at 09:20 AM.
09-04-2014, 11:32 AM
#180
Have you seen this? Any thoughts on the Jackson Racing Supercharger?
Can a hopped-up Miata take on the Porsche Boxster? - Autoblog
Can a hopped-up Miata take on the Porsche Boxster? - Autoblog
09-04-2014, 11:45 AM
#181
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Flyin Miata (Inconel 718 turbo stud), though there are a few different vendors that sell them, each with their own 'exclusive' source. These are M8, which are probably smaller than what you might look for. Here are some M10 versions.
For a number of years, turbocharged track Miatas were breaking/stripping studs once the drivers were fast enough to exceed roughly the Spec Miata record lap times (a standard of speed trying to weed out people that claimed "no issues", revealing that they just weren't fast enough yet). The heat + vibration + thermal expansion cycles + lateral loads on a turbo hanging off the side of the manifold were basically just pulling the stud threads and stretching them until the threads would simple no longer be able to grip either the manifold or the turbine housing. The top two fastest turbocharged Miatas at the time could get only a single track session out of a set of brand new SS studs. They would remain tight as long as the turbine temps could stay up, but as soon as they cooled off over about 15 minutes, you could rotate the studs by hand. High torque values were tried, and that typically resulted in just breaking the studs in half the track time, and not waiting for a cooling cycle.
Iconel ended up being the solution.
I'm no where near the risky speeds yet, but I'd far rather remove intact studs than stripped/broken ones.
For a number of years, turbocharged track Miatas were breaking/stripping studs once the drivers were fast enough to exceed roughly the Spec Miata record lap times (a standard of speed trying to weed out people that claimed "no issues", revealing that they just weren't fast enough yet). The heat + vibration + thermal expansion cycles + lateral loads on a turbo hanging off the side of the manifold were basically just pulling the stud threads and stretching them until the threads would simple no longer be able to grip either the manifold or the turbine housing. The top two fastest turbocharged Miatas at the time could get only a single track session out of a set of brand new SS studs. They would remain tight as long as the turbine temps could stay up, but as soon as they cooled off over about 15 minutes, you could rotate the studs by hand. High torque values were tried, and that typically resulted in just breaking the studs in half the track time, and not waiting for a cooling cycle.
Iconel ended up being the solution.
I'm no where near the risky speeds yet, but I'd far rather remove intact studs than stripped/broken ones.
I am running the Stage 8 bolt kit at the turbo, I wish I had seen this. Pricey but looks legit.
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs
09-04-2014, 11:48 AM
#182
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The JR S/C is popular among a small subset of owners. It has a lot of faults to it though, namely that it's generally more expensive than similar power T/C kits, which are also put together more completely. Idle and low RPM is actually a pretty big problem with the JR, which, if you have a problem there, why not just use a T/C anyway?
The FM S/C for the 2006-2015 Miata is the opposite though, since it was originally developed by Cosworth for Mazda directly, before Mazda decided not to do it, so OEM fitment, OEM driveability, virtually seemless. The NC T/C options aren't any cheaper, various challenges to solve, etc...
I hadn't see the video, but it's interesting. A Boxster has been at or near the top of my list for a better DD than the MSM for a while. The new ND may have trumped that, depending on how livable it is on the highway. The 987 Boxster I drove (less power, less weight than the 981 they have in that video) was roughly similar to my MSM in the 'speed' perspective, so I'd suspect that the changes will make a close competition when part 2 rolls around. The track looks quite open though, so I expect that the Boxster will still win. A tighter narrower track would push it in favor of the modified Miata.
The FM S/C for the 2006-2015 Miata is the opposite though, since it was originally developed by Cosworth for Mazda directly, before Mazda decided not to do it, so OEM fitment, OEM driveability, virtually seemless. The NC T/C options aren't any cheaper, various challenges to solve, etc...
I hadn't see the video, but it's interesting. A Boxster has been at or near the top of my list for a better DD than the MSM for a while. The new ND may have trumped that, depending on how livable it is on the highway. The 987 Boxster I drove (less power, less weight than the 981 they have in that video) was roughly similar to my MSM in the 'speed' perspective, so I'd suspect that the changes will make a close competition when part 2 rolls around. The track looks quite open though, so I expect that the Boxster will still win. A tighter narrower track would push it in favor of the modified Miata.
09-04-2014, 11:50 AM
#183
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I am running the Stage 8 bolt kit at the turbo, I wish I had seen this. Pricey but looks legit.
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 hardware with Inconel studs
09-04-2014, 11:50 AM
#184
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riwwp is your next upgrade going to be a fm windshield sticker? i think it adds 10hp
09-04-2014, 12:21 PM
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The engine block has remained basically the same, and still has the same basic strength limits of around 250wtq, 270whp. That isn't enough for those numbers. 12s is doable, MAYBE high 11s with lots of other work unrelated to power, or with plenty of engine building, but certainly not ~11.0 range by itself.
09-04-2014, 12:23 PM
#187
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09-25-2014, 10:23 PM
#190
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Ready for a weekend at Watkin's Glenn. NASA HPDE2. New brakes, new upgraded pads, all service checks and maintenance done. Detouring rather far out of my way to get a re-check of my alignment and probably some alignment bolt replacement. Since the last time I was on track, I'm up ~20% power, much better brakes, significantly better tires, but minus a roof. Wishing I had money/time to get a tire trailer and hitch...
09-28-2014, 07:25 PM
#191
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Yup, thanks. Hopefully I can snag that as soon as my oil filter relocation kit sells.
Back home. Watkin's Glenn is such an awesome track to drive! Lightning was fun, but not thrilling, Summit was ok, just barely 'fun', almost not. Watkin's Glenn is soooo much better than both of those. Great rythmn, suits my car well, fast, lots of elevation changes, lots of cambered turns, etc... The HPDE2 group was very well behaved, and I spent a lot of the time we did get without cars around me. About the only 'encounter' story i have is from a Cobra replica that I caught in 2 laps after giving everyone a 20 second head start out of pit lane, then pulled through the pits again because of the train that the Cobra was on the tail end of, waited 10 seconds, set off again, and caught the Cobra again within a lap. I never got past him though, because he apparently had the attitude "no way this Miata is faster than I am!" Uphill out of the toe of the boot (turn 7) is the only place he was faster. I was faster in every turn, and could hang with him on the straight, in part because of my superior corner exit speed.
I got approved to request a check ride for DE3 (Advanced group) at my next event. (This finished my 6th track day total, 20 sessions. Consistent compliments from multiple instructors on my consistency and smoothness. My two main weak points are downshifting smoothly when threshhold braking and turning in too early. I can downshift smoothly with less braking, and hit proper threshhold braking points, but mixing them continues to be a physical foot placement/sequence problem, and when working on that, I too frequently end up with no gear selected at all. I've got some recommendations about how to mod the pedals to help with that.
Car held up well. Saturday at 83F and 7.5psi on the GT2560, I tripped my 205F coolant temp warning briefly. I bumped the warning light threshhold to 210F, and today, at 80F and 8.5psi, I only tripped it when following a similarly fast car. If they were much slower, I wouldn't be in the gas enough, and if they were faster, they weren't in front of me long enough to disrupt the airflow. So I'm running warmer than i'd like, but still within safe ranges (I can run to 230-240 without risk). I'll need to work on cooling more, some shrouding, a splitter, and/or AC delete would all likely work just fine. So they are probably all going in. The car has great low speed 3rd gear balance, maybe a touch of understeer, but all other high speed corners have too much understeer. Even a small splitter would work wonders, as I expected.
I went without a hard top so i could bring the track tires without risking a street-side puncture ruining my weekend, and that was easily killing my top end speed by ~7-10mph on the back straight before the bus stop.
I'm pondering an AC delete and re-mounting the radiator into a V mount, as there is about an inch to drop it down, and maybe 4-5 inches to move the top forward. New brackets would be needed, but would double the hood venting area I can use along with the benefits of any V mounting of the radiator.
Tires and brakes were great. The XS tires have tons of feedback and a nice howl regardless of the speed you are at the limit with, and they are incredibly consistent. There is no appreciable fall off or greasing up of the tires as I put heat into them, and I did plenty of that in back to back to back corners. Turn 5, 6, 7 along should be enough to overheat tires if they don't like heat. They did just fine every lap.
I got video of every session, and there are some pics from a photographer friend that I'll have up.
Back home. Watkin's Glenn is such an awesome track to drive! Lightning was fun, but not thrilling, Summit was ok, just barely 'fun', almost not. Watkin's Glenn is soooo much better than both of those. Great rythmn, suits my car well, fast, lots of elevation changes, lots of cambered turns, etc... The HPDE2 group was very well behaved, and I spent a lot of the time we did get without cars around me. About the only 'encounter' story i have is from a Cobra replica that I caught in 2 laps after giving everyone a 20 second head start out of pit lane, then pulled through the pits again because of the train that the Cobra was on the tail end of, waited 10 seconds, set off again, and caught the Cobra again within a lap. I never got past him though, because he apparently had the attitude "no way this Miata is faster than I am!" Uphill out of the toe of the boot (turn 7) is the only place he was faster. I was faster in every turn, and could hang with him on the straight, in part because of my superior corner exit speed.
I got approved to request a check ride for DE3 (Advanced group) at my next event. (This finished my 6th track day total, 20 sessions. Consistent compliments from multiple instructors on my consistency and smoothness. My two main weak points are downshifting smoothly when threshhold braking and turning in too early. I can downshift smoothly with less braking, and hit proper threshhold braking points, but mixing them continues to be a physical foot placement/sequence problem, and when working on that, I too frequently end up with no gear selected at all. I've got some recommendations about how to mod the pedals to help with that.
Car held up well. Saturday at 83F and 7.5psi on the GT2560, I tripped my 205F coolant temp warning briefly. I bumped the warning light threshhold to 210F, and today, at 80F and 8.5psi, I only tripped it when following a similarly fast car. If they were much slower, I wouldn't be in the gas enough, and if they were faster, they weren't in front of me long enough to disrupt the airflow. So I'm running warmer than i'd like, but still within safe ranges (I can run to 230-240 without risk). I'll need to work on cooling more, some shrouding, a splitter, and/or AC delete would all likely work just fine. So they are probably all going in. The car has great low speed 3rd gear balance, maybe a touch of understeer, but all other high speed corners have too much understeer. Even a small splitter would work wonders, as I expected.
I went without a hard top so i could bring the track tires without risking a street-side puncture ruining my weekend, and that was easily killing my top end speed by ~7-10mph on the back straight before the bus stop.
I'm pondering an AC delete and re-mounting the radiator into a V mount, as there is about an inch to drop it down, and maybe 4-5 inches to move the top forward. New brackets would be needed, but would double the hood venting area I can use along with the benefits of any V mounting of the radiator.
Tires and brakes were great. The XS tires have tons of feedback and a nice howl regardless of the speed you are at the limit with, and they are incredibly consistent. There is no appreciable fall off or greasing up of the tires as I put heat into them, and I did plenty of that in back to back to back corners. Turn 5, 6, 7 along should be enough to overheat tires if they don't like heat. They did just fine every lap.
I got video of every session, and there are some pics from a photographer friend that I'll have up.
09-28-2014, 09:22 PM
#192
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One of my laps, possibly my best one. I had a lot of clear track all weekend, but despite that, I almost never had a 100% clean lap. Excuse the annotations for friends and family that only have a vague idea of things related to cars
I was shifting at about 6,300rpm with a redline of 6,500. The engine can take up to ~7,500 without building it, but the extra 1,000rpm is a lot of extra strain and harmonic problems on stock oil pump gears and a few other items. With the turbo, I don't really need to wind it out that far anyway yet.
For speed/gear reference, 6,300rpm with my gearing and tires is:
3rd: 74mph
4th: 97mph
5th: 122mph
I was shifting at about 6,300rpm with a redline of 6,500. The engine can take up to ~7,500 without building it, but the extra 1,000rpm is a lot of extra strain and harmonic problems on stock oil pump gears and a few other items. With the turbo, I don't really need to wind it out that far anyway yet.
For speed/gear reference, 6,300rpm with my gearing and tires is:
3rd: 74mph
4th: 97mph
5th: 122mph
10-01-2014, 08:37 AM
#196
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Most people don't readily realize that my hood isn't black, but catch it in the sun, and it become rather obvious. This vette was breathing down my neck too, he passed on the next straight.
They said to use all the curbing...
...but what if your car isn't wide enough?
They said to use all the curbing...
...but what if your car isn't wide enough?
10-05-2014, 02:47 PM
#197
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Well, I frankly don't know what to do about this, or how long it's been broken... I've been hearing an odd noise from the rear for about a month, which assuming that this is what I've been hearing, I did a track day on this. Which is scary.
10-05-2014, 03:51 PM
#198
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Looks like I can just replace the casing, swapping over the poly bushings and the internals. 1.8 Rear Differential Aluminum Housing
And I suspect that it snapped from the pot hole ridden road near where i park for work, that i can't avoid. Patches only last about a week, and some hits about a month ago were rather jarring. I filed a claim with my insurance company to see if they would cover it.
And I suspect that it snapped from the pot hole ridden road near where i park for work, that i can't avoid. Patches only last about a week, and some hits about a month ago were rather jarring. I filed a claim with my insurance company to see if they would cover it.
10-05-2014, 09:52 PM
#199
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Nasty fracture there Pearl....know a good aluminum welder?.
WOW, These Diff casings (OEM) are the same for all NB's...MA02-27-600A, but at around $800 new....ouch.
WOW, These Diff casings (OEM) are the same for all NB's...MA02-27-600A, but at around $800 new....ouch.
10-05-2014, 10:42 PM
#200
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Plus 6-8 hours labor.
Good thing the insurance is covering it. Getting towed to a shop tomorrow. Just have to make sure they dont throw out my 3.63 rear gear! And see if i can get them to swap my poly bushings over too.
Good thing the insurance is covering it. Getting towed to a shop tomorrow. Just have to make sure they dont throw out my 3.63 rear gear! And see if i can get them to swap my poly bushings over too.