I dont want them to give me 11k or some stupidly low number.

How can I maximize what they'll give me for my 2004 RX-8? Navigation, Touring, M6... Think I can convince a dealership to give me 16k? More?

 

Gold plate everything...............

 

I got 15k for my 2004 mazda3 hatch.
It all comes down to how well you "wheel and deal"

 

If you can wing it, sell it to a privite party (essentially someone that's looking for an RX-8). You'll get more money from them than a dealer... essentially.

But Trekk is right, it's all about how you wheel and deal.

michael

 

Make sure you have all the receipts to prove that scheduled maintenance was done.

 

I'm sure they'll give you 16K or more as long as you agree to pay 10k over sticker for whatever you buy from them.

16K is about what they'd sell it for. Considering 8's are languishing on dealer lots I wouldn't get my hopes up. Sell it yourself.

 

IMO. I would have it detailed. Both inside and out. It makes a BIG difference. It is always easier to "wheel and deal" with a cleaner product.

Good luck.

 

kbb and edmunds is your friend. Most dealers look at those and the black book values and then subtract for damage and other oddities.
I used to tell my customers if I give them full price for their trade then they should give me full price for my new car. In other words, if you think you are getting a great deal on your trade then the dealer will try and make it up some where else

 

Make sure you negotiate the purchase price of the vehicle you are buying FIRST. DO NOT bring the trade into the equation until you get the price of car first. This is an important thing when buying a car. Dealerships have the chance to mark up your trade to please you, but in reality it only meant that you could have gotten the car for a better initial purchase price. Just negotiate the price of the car you want first, make sure it's a GREAT DEAL, then bring up the trade, and negotiate that separately, and make sure that is fair with KBB. Good luck!!!

 

Dealers use NADA and not KBB and Edmonds for pricing trade-ins. Actually, most dealers began calling the wholesalers to find out what they can get and not use NADA at all. KBB and Edmonds are great for pricing a car YOU intend to sell privately......but dealers aren't willing to take your car at a loss (loss being no profit potential for them on the resale). KBB prices are ALWAYS higher than what the dealer will give on trade (unless he's getting something on the back end of the new car deal). Ever seen the $650 doc fee.......do you really think it costs the dealer $650 to process paperwork. How about $600-1000 delivery and clean-up......guess what, the OEM's don't charge the dealers anything near that much for delivery.

Dealers are scammers........information is the only way to beat them. Question everything.......full disclosure is the law. But if you don't ask they don't have to explain in full detail.

 

While my old dealer did primarily rely on black book (NADA) and talking to the wholesalers, they always printed out the KBB and Edmunds report as a back up way of explaining to the customer how they arrived at a price

 

First tell the dealer your gonna pay cash. Then work out a price. Then tell them you might have a trade in. Then tell them that you might want to finance that cash amount. Kills them every time.

 

As you can imagine, they hate Easy_E1. They send out the noob salesman when they see him drive into the lot.

 

Put a honda logo on it.

 

Salespeople at dealerships don't give a crap about your maintenance records. The only care that the tires aren't bald, and that the brakes aren't about to go.

 

LOL! That was great.

 

VTEC!!!