Catalytic Converter wrecked my coils/plugs!!!
05-21-2009, 01:56 AM
#26
I zoom therefore I am.
I have never understood when only 1 or 2 coils and/or plugs are replaced. The cost is minimal and if it's time to replace 1 or 2 then go for all 4... in for a penny, in for a pound.
It would also be helpful to know a few things:
1. How do you drive your car? Is redlining a daily thing?
2. How often do you change your oil and what type are you using?
3. What kind of gas do you usually fill up with?
4. Any mods to the car?
It would also be helpful to know a few things:
1. How do you drive your car? Is redlining a daily thing?
2. How often do you change your oil and what type are you using?
3. What kind of gas do you usually fill up with?
4. Any mods to the car?
05-21-2009, 10:21 AM
#27
It's a Cavalier
HAHA $1000 is "big bucks" to repair a sports car?
Buy a Civic. It'll be much better for you. You're not prepared to handle some of the costs that will hit you in the face in the next few years. If you get that pissed about this, you're going to blow a gasket and cause youself to have a heartattack then the **** really hits the fan.
Buy a Civic. It'll be much better for you. You're not prepared to handle some of the costs that will hit you in the face in the next few years. If you get that pissed about this, you're going to blow a gasket and cause youself to have a heartattack then the **** really hits the fan.
05-21-2009, 10:28 AM
#28
your cat failed which is not unheard of for this car.. Simple as that.
Yes a new catalytic converter from mazda is $1500 but it's covered under the federal emissions warranty.
Your car was coincidentally due for coils/plugs.. And you ended up paying big $ for something that easily costs less then $200 if you were to do it yourself.
Yes a new catalytic converter from mazda is $1500 but it's covered under the federal emissions warranty.
Your car was coincidentally due for coils/plugs.. And you ended up paying big $ for something that easily costs less then $200 if you were to do it yourself.
haha $1000 is "big bucks" to repair a sports car?
Buy a civic. It'll be much better for you. You're not prepared to handle some of the costs that will hit you in the face in the next few years. If you get that pissed about this, you're going to blow a gasket and cause youself to have a heartattack then the **** really hits the fan.
Buy a civic. It'll be much better for you. You're not prepared to handle some of the costs that will hit you in the face in the next few years. If you get that pissed about this, you're going to blow a gasket and cause youself to have a heartattack then the **** really hits the fan.
05-21-2009, 10:38 AM
#29
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Towed to mechanic; he replaces 2 ignition coils, all 4 plugs since 2 were were replaced from a prior recall and 2 were original. Mileage about 50K. Big $$.
One month ago, car had no symptoms, running fine. Check engine light came on, took to mechanic, said computer tripped 3 codes, cleared codes. Took to dealer because one of the codes related to catalytic converter.
Prior to all of this happening, I kept hearing an intermittent rattle while driving; couldn't pinpoint location or cause.
Two weeks ago, coming home from son's Master's Graduate concert, driving on the 405 in So Ca, check engine light comes on intermittently and also lost 50% power, drove car for about 5 miles until we got to other son's place and had AAA tow to mechanic.
Mechanic now says Catalytic converter culprit, needs replacing, covered under 7/70 warranty. Had car towed to dealer, catalytic converter replaced. Dealer said car still running rough; have car towed back to mechanic. See dealer repair sheet, no cost is present - zero dollars to me. Mechanic said Mazda hiding true cost of repair, probably $1500+. Mechanic thinks Mazda hiding something, I agree, from blog posts we find when I pick up car. He reduces cost of repair since he knows I'm pissed.
He replaced the other 2 ignition coils and all 4 plugs.
Now y'all are saying the ignition coils CAUSED the catalytic converter to fail?? I have never heard of that before, but I don't discount it.
I have spent over $1000.00 repairing my RX8 since last October.
Please elaborate on why some of y'all think the ignition coils could possibly torch the catalytic converter, I need to know details.
Bob S.
You have 2 ignition coils go bad, leading to (possibly) having a whole rotor with no spark at all, meaning you're dumping piles of unburned gasoline into your exhaust, which then flows down to the catalytic converter, where it ignites, boosting the temperature in your cat up to the point where it breaks down the honeycombed catalyst material, causing the rattling in your exhaust as the melted bits rattle around. with the cat half melted, you trip a code for catalyst inefficiency (because it's melted) You clear the code instead of taking action on it.
A few months later, 2 more coils go dead, dumping even more gasoline into the cat, melting it further, throwing more codes and causing all sorts of mayhem, and when your mechanic sees the codes, has mazda replace the cat under warranty for you.
Your mechanic should have replaced all 4 coils when the first 2 failed, and I don't see any reason to replace all the plugs a second time, cleaning them should be sufficient unless you really fouled them badly.
No mystery. No scam. No class action lawsuit.
Last edited by Socket7; 05-21-2009 at 10:45 AM.
05-21-2009, 10:59 AM
#30
Huge hole is huge
Ignition coils provide spark to the spark plugs to ignite the gasoline in the engine producing power.
You have 2 ignition coils go bad, leading to (possibly) having a whole rotor with no spark at all, meaning you're dumping piles of unburned gasoline into your exhaust, which then flows down to the catalytic converter, where it ignites, boosting the temperature in your cat up to the point where it breaks down the honeycombed catalyst material, causing the rattling in your exhaust as the melted bits rattle around. with the cat half melted, you trip a code for catalyst inefficiency (because it's melted) You clear the code instead of taking action on it.
A few months later, 2 more coils go dead, dumping even more gasoline into the cat, melting it further, throwing more codes and causing all sorts of mayhem, and when your mechanic sees the codes, has mazda replace the cat under warranty for you.
Your mechanic should have replaced all 4 coils when the first 2 failed, and I don't see any reason to replace all the plugs a second time, cleaning them should be sufficient unless you really fouled them badly.
No mystery. No scam. No class action lawsuit.
You have 2 ignition coils go bad, leading to (possibly) having a whole rotor with no spark at all, meaning you're dumping piles of unburned gasoline into your exhaust, which then flows down to the catalytic converter, where it ignites, boosting the temperature in your cat up to the point where it breaks down the honeycombed catalyst material, causing the rattling in your exhaust as the melted bits rattle around. with the cat half melted, you trip a code for catalyst inefficiency (because it's melted) You clear the code instead of taking action on it.
A few months later, 2 more coils go dead, dumping even more gasoline into the cat, melting it further, throwing more codes and causing all sorts of mayhem, and when your mechanic sees the codes, has mazda replace the cat under warranty for you.
Your mechanic should have replaced all 4 coils when the first 2 failed, and I don't see any reason to replace all the plugs a second time, cleaning them should be sufficient unless you really fouled them badly.
No mystery. No scam. No class action lawsuit.
05-21-2009, 09:31 PM
#31
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Since last October, I only drive about 20 miles/day. I change the oil every 5k miles. I only run premium gas, but I have put a few tankfuls of midgrade in over the 5 years I've owned it. No mods at to the car.
A friend who used to work for CART for 20 years said I should get the Maintenance Manual from Mazda, he said would cost about $100.00. Then I can really see what they expect for maintenance since the one that came with the car is not very complete.
I'll probably get the manual and then see what I should have been doing all along...oh well.. lesson learned..
If it does recommend changing plugs and coils often then I'll learn how to do it myself.
Thx
Bob S.
A friend who used to work for CART for 20 years said I should get the Maintenance Manual from Mazda, he said would cost about $100.00. Then I can really see what they expect for maintenance since the one that came with the car is not very complete.
I'll probably get the manual and then see what I should have been doing all along...oh well.. lesson learned..
If it does recommend changing plugs and coils often then I'll learn how to do it myself.
Thx
Bob S.
I have never understood when only 1 or 2 coils and/or plugs are replaced. The cost is minimal and if it's time to replace 1 or 2 then go for all 4... in for a penny, in for a pound.
It would also be helpful to know a few things:
1. How do you drive your car? Is redlining a daily thing?
2. How often do you change your oil and what type are you using?
3. What kind of gas do you usually fill up with?
4. Any mods to the car?
It would also be helpful to know a few things:
1. How do you drive your car? Is redlining a daily thing?
2. How often do you change your oil and what type are you using?
3. What kind of gas do you usually fill up with?
4. Any mods to the car?
05-22-2009, 08:02 AM
#32
jersey fresh
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I doubt you'll even need the maintenance manual (especially for that price.)
If you search around here all the info you'll need is already present and verified by many many owners.
If you search around here all the info you'll need is already present and verified by many many owners.
05-22-2009, 08:48 AM
#33
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http://www.myrotarycar.com/portal/fo...3le/index.html
Here you go, its for free.
Upside, this car is a breeze to work on. Dont let the dealership or some other mech. rob you.
Here you go, its for free.
Upside, this car is a breeze to work on. Dont let the dealership or some other mech. rob you.
Too funny, made my day just laughing at the title
06-21-2010, 02:24 PM
#36
absolutely disgusting!!
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My break dust keeps clogging my air filter, and my clutch seems to make my gas pedal not work properly, when I press the clutch pedal, no accelleration even though I can see the rpms rise and hear the engine reving, anyone know how to fix this?
taht alone made this thread worth reading.
06-23-2010, 12:52 PM
#39
Registered
I wouldn't try to use any opinions on a forum as evidence in a court case so we didn't say anything happened to the car but rather are offering alternatives. I actually see the possibility that your mechanic misdiagnosed the problem originally although I can't say for certain that he did. The one thing a rotary does well compared to piston engines is wear out spark plugs. Just because the mechanic replaced a couple of coils and spark plugs doesn't necessarily mean that one of them may not have still been good.
I once had Mazda tell me that the airflow meter on my RX-7 went bad and then took out my leading and trailing coils too and that it would cost over $2000 to fix. They diagnosed it this way since the coils weren't firing. However without the proper signal from the airflow meter, the coils won't fire. I spend $200 at a junkyard for a new airflow meter and the car ran fine. The coils fired because they received the signal to. Sometimes it can be easy to misdiagnose problems.
A cat can be troublesome because they don't always fail in an all or nothing manner. Sometimes the cat can start to go out but will only act up when the car is hot with no apparent issues when it's cold. Other times it may have to be running for a while before anything shows up. Then the next day it may not show any signs of problem. In a situation like this, a mechanic could very well get the car in and change a spark plug or coil and in that time the cat cooled down enough for the symptoms to go away. He starts the car and everything works well again. The problem must be solved. You get billed and sent on your way.
Then the issue pops up again. Again the mechanic performs the same "fix" and bills you for it and again the issue is gone temporarily. What could be happening is that your plugs are fouling quicker since the car is running richer trying to make more power to overcome any exhaust blockage. Replace the plugs and they fire well again but again are trying to overcome an almost imperceptable exhaust restriction. Same thing happens. Then one day the cat just gives out. This time however it is Mazda performing the work rather than the same mechanic that performed the work the first two times. They determine the cat is bad and suddenly you are led to a conclusion that may not be accurate. I can't say for certain that this happened but it is plausible. Other things could have happened too though.
While it isn't possible for a failing cat to directly hurt plugs or coils, you can foul plugs faster from running a bit richer as a result. Conversely if a plug or coil were failing, running richer could cause more fuel to burn in the catalytic converter hurting it sooner. A failing coild could also foul plugs faster so there are several things that can. It is hard to say without a shadow of a doubt what actually happened and if a lawyer were to read this response he'd use the entire thing against you and you'd lose as a result. You don't have a sound case to sue and based on what was done work wise, it is nearly impossible to tell for certain what did happen and in what order.
It is possible that nothing was wrong with your coils at all and that only the cat went out. It is possible that the cat went out as a result of coils and plugs failing. It is possible that both happened but were completely unrelated. Finally, it is extremely possible that your mechanic misdiagnosed what was wrong with your car putting you through more expense than you should have. At this point it is nearly impossible to tell which is true.
Basically what I'm getting at is that you should cool down and forget you ever had the thought of suing. It was a bullshit threat anyways. You'll get your *** completely handed to you. If you do sue and win somehow, the other attorney should be disbarred for it as they'd have to be a complete dumbass to lose such a homerun case. If I were the other attorney, my opening statements would have the case dismissed so don't waste anymore money on top of what you've already paid. Just get the issue fixed and move on.
I once had Mazda tell me that the airflow meter on my RX-7 went bad and then took out my leading and trailing coils too and that it would cost over $2000 to fix. They diagnosed it this way since the coils weren't firing. However without the proper signal from the airflow meter, the coils won't fire. I spend $200 at a junkyard for a new airflow meter and the car ran fine. The coils fired because they received the signal to. Sometimes it can be easy to misdiagnose problems.
A cat can be troublesome because they don't always fail in an all or nothing manner. Sometimes the cat can start to go out but will only act up when the car is hot with no apparent issues when it's cold. Other times it may have to be running for a while before anything shows up. Then the next day it may not show any signs of problem. In a situation like this, a mechanic could very well get the car in and change a spark plug or coil and in that time the cat cooled down enough for the symptoms to go away. He starts the car and everything works well again. The problem must be solved. You get billed and sent on your way.
Then the issue pops up again. Again the mechanic performs the same "fix" and bills you for it and again the issue is gone temporarily. What could be happening is that your plugs are fouling quicker since the car is running richer trying to make more power to overcome any exhaust blockage. Replace the plugs and they fire well again but again are trying to overcome an almost imperceptable exhaust restriction. Same thing happens. Then one day the cat just gives out. This time however it is Mazda performing the work rather than the same mechanic that performed the work the first two times. They determine the cat is bad and suddenly you are led to a conclusion that may not be accurate. I can't say for certain that this happened but it is plausible. Other things could have happened too though.
While it isn't possible for a failing cat to directly hurt plugs or coils, you can foul plugs faster from running a bit richer as a result. Conversely if a plug or coil were failing, running richer could cause more fuel to burn in the catalytic converter hurting it sooner. A failing coild could also foul plugs faster so there are several things that can. It is hard to say without a shadow of a doubt what actually happened and if a lawyer were to read this response he'd use the entire thing against you and you'd lose as a result. You don't have a sound case to sue and based on what was done work wise, it is nearly impossible to tell for certain what did happen and in what order.
It is possible that nothing was wrong with your coils at all and that only the cat went out. It is possible that the cat went out as a result of coils and plugs failing. It is possible that both happened but were completely unrelated. Finally, it is extremely possible that your mechanic misdiagnosed what was wrong with your car putting you through more expense than you should have. At this point it is nearly impossible to tell which is true.
Basically what I'm getting at is that you should cool down and forget you ever had the thought of suing. It was a bullshit threat anyways. You'll get your *** completely handed to you. If you do sue and win somehow, the other attorney should be disbarred for it as they'd have to be a complete dumbass to lose such a homerun case. If I were the other attorney, my opening statements would have the case dismissed so don't waste anymore money on top of what you've already paid. Just get the issue fixed and move on.
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