Originally Posted by coupe07

GROUNDING (FREE LANCE)

Jason
HP: 97975869

This guy is doing 8 point grounding instead of the usual 5 point or 6 point. Should be rather effective for auto rx8s. He is actually providing COLD AIR INTAKE and OPEN POD installation. However, i'm not sure whether he can custom make to our car or not. He has done for many other cars already. Friendly guy with vast knowledge of engines and cars.

Work is neat and maticulous.

This guy has a lot of back log orders, showing how popular he is in this field of work. Call to enquire and ask him to check out ur car.

Again, how effective grounding is to ur car, me not too sure. But i'm very sure it is more effective in auto than in manual. For manual, if u have sound system, then it may be necessary.

Originally Posted by MazdaManiac

I unpackaged and installed it in about 45 minutes, which includes time to take resistance measurements and pictures.



The kit includes 7 wires pre-crimped and heat shrink wrapped to lugs. Also included is a new battery ground terminal, a distribution block (with a fake MazdaSpeed logo on it!), a set of 10mm nut/bolt combinations, a 2-1 lug and some wire ties.



First I attached the new terminal (after cleaning the post).



Then I attached the distribution block and the two existing ground wires via the 2-1.



I then measured the resistance to the chassis ground buy the washer bottle to the negative terminal as a baseline. The amount of resistance to ground from this point in the chassis is considerable at 4.7 ohms.



I then attached the first wire to this point on the chassis to the distribution block.



Then I re-measured the resistance from the ground point right next to the one just connected (to get the actual change in grounding at this point rather than what is being carried directly by the wire). The resistance had dropped to .4 ohm! 1/10 the original resistance.



Then I measured he resistance on the other since of the chassis. It was down to .5 ohm. So, I connected the second wire to the area near the strut tower on that side.



The resistance dropped to .4 ohm.



Next was the alternator. This dropped the resistance across the accesible parts of the front of the engine block from .4 ohm to .2 ohm.



Last, I hooked up a wire to the plate to which the coils are mounted. I used the open mounting point where the part of OEM wiring harness used to be. I think this carried the wire for the VFAD with a plastic clip.



The resistance dropped from .5 ohm to .3 ohm.



The final result was this red cobweb of wires. With the battery cover back in place, it is pretty neat looking.



Results?

As far as I can tell, the idle is more stable - it now sits squarely at 820 RPM without the usual 50 RPM wander. Hitting my fan on switch (I had wired a switch that allows me to turn the fans on full at any time - you would be surprised how stingy the PCM is with the fans in the OEM configuration. Here in the desert, they really need to be on all of the time), I noted NO drop in RPM. The load used to take the RPM down a notch as the alternator (generator) fought to keep up.

Whether any of this produces any more power I can't say. However, I would imagine that is things are easier for the generator, there should be less loss. Also, making it easier for the coils to fire can't hurt.

I'd post a DIY, but since you can't put pictures in the DIY section, why bother.

Originally Posted by whitesnail

Thanks Ivan, I too long never come into RX8 club.

Ivan has gotten my contact from getz and hyundai forum, as he trusted me with my work, i am help to provide services in this forum.