Hi, I just got my 8 not long ago and After checking the oil dip stick, I think its getting low and as the manual says... i'll have to top up the engine oil. Mazda dealer uses shell super but they couldn't tell me what viscousity rating they uses. I am wondering if it is posible to mix the current oil with the same type but of a different viscous rating and whether it will impact the engine... anyone has any comments on this? Or maybe someone could tell me what engine oil and viscous rating to use.

 

shell super is 20W50 wat... one type only.... juz use shell helix super to top up, wun go wrong. If u have to use other brands, juz look out for mineral oil rating 20W50, its abt the same.

Not advisable to mix with different rating.

Different pple again, got different views on the type of oil to use. Some standby this, some standby that. Oil threads has been asked over n over again.

As for using synthetic and mineral, the reason y we use mineral is becos mineral oil burns completely whereas normal synthetic oil may not burn completely for our engines (toking abt rotary engine only. I cld go on n on abt the theory and technical details, but that will become a secondary school composition.)

If u have to use synthetic oil, go with rotary synthetic oil where it will burn completely (tested by rotary tuners) in our engine.

Like i said there a very long technical detail as to y the engine oil will not burn completely and how it will damage the rotor if used the wrong oil.

But the above shld summarise wat u shld look out for when using oil for ur engine.

 

Hey thanks... Yeah this the first time i ever had to top up oil. Never been the case with my previous ride.

 

as far as i noe, only rotary engine "eats" oil.

If other engines start eating oil, u better bring it to check!!

 

The syn vs mineral is a extremely loooong debate. Check out the main forum for it.

Actually mixing different viscosities is fine. Lets say you mix equal parts of 40 weight to a 50 weight, you may roughly get either a 43 or 47. There is a chart for this but i do not have the link.

When you change engine oil, most probably you are mixing oils anyway; its almost impossible to drain all oil out from an engine as there will always be residual oil in oil lines, nooks and cranies, oil cooler, oil pan, etc.

 

Mineral vs synthetic has nothing to do with clean burnt residue or not, its the seals. Have a read at these, someone posted some time ago. Then again all these is still subjective, there was never a persuasive answer to this oil thingi. However using a separate 2 stroke oil reservoir to replace the stock MOP is definitely the way to go, its used on airplanes which cannot afford engine rebuild all the time and no downtime when airborne.

 

Hi Zard,

Firstly, I was a big fan of Zard and Sakai Izumi too!

From factory (assuming you haven't done an oil change before), the oil specs is a 5w-30 Mazda packaged oil.

Shell Super 20w-50 is used by MM in standard mineral service packages, it is an excellent mineral oil IMHO. Quite suited for our driving conditions, though the heat... oooo... the blowby... ooo... but I always bug them to clean my TB every other servicing at MM (ie every 10k).

I change my mineral 20w-50 every 2500. I think its a good schedule, not an overkill, if you can afford the time. I do my 2500s and 7500s at my regular workshop. 5000s and 10000s at MM.

 

what does 5w30 and 20w50 stand for?
i use shell super 20w50 as well. mineral

 

Yeah Zard Rules!!... haha. Well anyway thanks mate, I do not have the much time to keep changing the oils though. I'll take note of that.

 

what does 5w30 and 20w50 stand for?
i use shell super 20w50 as well. mineral

 

Quote from http://www.islandoilsupply.com/shell...#FORMULASHELL1

The FormulaShellTM family of multigrade and single grade motor oils cover a range of SAE viscosity grades, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 20W-50, SAE 30 and SAE 40. The domestic automobile manufacturers general recommend the 5W-30 grade for all-season use in late-model 4- and small 6 cylinder engines, whereas the 10W-30 grade is preferred for some larger 6-cylinder and V-8 gasoline engines and for turbocharged models. The SAE 10W-40 grade is still popular with consumers although it is not recommended by Chrysler, Ford or General Motors for use in their recent model engines. Some European vehicle manufacturers, however, recommend the 10W-40 grade, particularly for high temperature operation. The 20W-50 grade is designed for severe service in high summer temperatures, particularly in European vehicles. The SAE 30 and SAE 40 grade oils may be used in certain temperature conditions, where they deliver excellent protection. Always refer to the vehicle's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the correct viscosity grade and performance levels required for proper lubrication of a particular engine.

"Does this conclude that our Rotary engine is more suitable to use 20W50 in Singapore and malaysia, since its more heated?"

 

Note "all-season". The w grade doesn't really apply in SG where the temp always hovers around 30 degrees. The 2nd grade is more applicable.

I read quite in depth about oils. My own conclusion is 10w-40 is quite suitable but its all down to what you really want to use in your own car.

This topic is questioned to death; maybe bros should refer to pass discussions.

 

Just got my 8 for slightly more than a week, and just did the first thousand km oil change with the agent's garage.

Advice by the garage operator that their practise for servicing the 8 are;
First, use Mobil 1 SuperSyn 15W-50 for the next 5000km (ie 1000 to 6000km).
Then after they will use Royal Purple 5W-40 from the 6000km onward.
He also advice me to do oil change every 5000km desplite using Synthetic oil.

Just wander is that correct? Thought Mobil 1 SuperSyn is not suitable for the rotory.

Note: Is it okay to post cost of Oil and Oil filter charges in this forum for comparison/discussion?

 

Hi,

I just did my 1000km servicing as well and topped up with Castrol RS (10W50). Noticed slower accelerating (not sure if I am imagining things) and poorer fuel economy. Thinking of switching to a Castrol SLX (0W30) instead. Found a workshop selling $85 per 4L can with free 3M Nomad car mat.

Both RS and SLX are synthetic oil.

Cheers,
Richard

 

Topping up should not make any difference, I'm sure you are just imagining things. However a complete drain will make a bit of difference.

 

Your garage operator seems to be quite competent. Since oil is injected into combustion chamber for lubrication, over time the engine oil would get dirty... you wouldn't want dirty oil to be injected into the engine after some mileage. Oil change every 5000km is sound advice. If Mobil 1 is not suitable for the engine nor will the Royal Purple but I have no doubts that Royal Purple is suitable. Please don't start asking about synthetic vs non-synthetic anymore coz the topic is so old already.

 

Hi,

Wrong choice of words, it should be "completely drained the engine oil during my 1000km service and replaced with 10W50 Castrol RS engine oil". Noticed poorer fuel economy and acceleration as a result.

Anyone had similar experience after changing to higher viscoscity oil?

As for the oil filer, I paid about $12+ for an original Mazda oil filter.

Cheers,
Richard

 

oil filter price quite standard one, nothing more than $25.

After 1 or 2 weeks check to see if your engine oil levels are still maintaining or if they have dropped.

 

The power difference between oil changes can be a bit. And this is the same loop hole "performance" product sellers exploit. They dyno a car before oil change and then quote the "increase" in power after oil change and installing their product. Factor in the variance of a dynometer and corrections. Ta-dah! Increase in 10% HP!

I will only believe dyno figures by a third party and oil chnage and tune up is done before dyno-ing a new product. eg. see the power pages in Import tuner.