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View Poll Results: What's your idle oil range after at least 30mins normal driving (70kmh avg)?
Synthetic: 90-95C
5
38.46%
Synthetic: 96-100C
5
38.46%
Synthetic: 100C-105C
0
0%
Synthetic: >106C
1
7.69%
Dino: 90-95C
0
0%
Dino: 96-100C
2
15.38%
Dino: 100-105C
1
7.69%
Dino: >106C
0
0%
Dino: >110C
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll

AT RX-8 owners: What's your oil temp readings?

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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 05:58 AM
  #51  
coupe07's Avatar
SC 300HP!!
 
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From: Singapore, North-east
Originally Posted by CoupeM
I oso wan 'full' KS setup...except cat and bodykit. Lol...wat ppl wan, I oso wan. Jialat. :P

Can anyone tell me what is a normal water temp and oil temp for a stock RX8 on track? I am getting confused by my multi display. Oil 117 degrees? Water 109 degrees?
on track, u got to verify with the trackies. On normal roads, both shldnt exceed 100 deg.

Y wldnt u wan KS cat? then wat cat do u wan? Stock?
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 11:31 AM
  #52  
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How any trackies wanna share??? On normal roads, I am getting 101-102 degrees for oil and water temp. Cannot imagine 6mt with 1 oil cooler running at wat kind of temp.

I dont like cat....been trying to run down my neighbour's cat for years. Always come and **** in my flowerpot.

Last edited by CoupeM; Jun 14, 2006 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 01:58 PM
  #53  
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From: Singapore (East)
Originally Posted by Emperor
True that too rich a mix can produce less power, but it also floods the cat. Why would mazda want to do that? Flooded cat means poorer emissions and longevity and higher fuel consumption.
You are talking about extreme richening in an attempt to explain your detuning = leaning theory. Like I said, there are other ways to reduce power without increasing the temperature such as reducing the amount of fuel (while maintaining the same FAM ratio) or like you say retarding the ignition.

Originally Posted by Emperor
The strange thing is that why PIs offer higher OMVs compared to MM ones despite being cheaper and with less options. Perhaps MM has a higher profit margin and higher costs due to be restricted to importing euro spec with euro options. If they could import the 247 hp JDM version, they would. Who wants to settle for less hp?
Early JDM 6MT models which have higher OMVs brought in by PIs actually sold for more than what MM was charging. That's why MM stole the 6MT market from the PIs. Does 4AT models sold by PIs now have higher OMVs than 6MTs sold by MM now?

Originally Posted by Emperor
Hope no one gets offended. This is supposed to be just a friendly discussion.
I don't think anyone is offended, we are all here to learn more, but I'm just finding it hard to understand your explaination.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 02:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by coupe07
we can swap too, i aiming for full re amemiya setup.
i an pai for you. KS cat - 26th june ready.
Ok, can do a complete install and swap when everything is ready?
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #55  
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KS cat? sluuurp..... AT can use or not?
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:03 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Emperor
The strange thing is that why PIs offer higher OMVs compared to MM ones despite being cheaper and with less options. Perhaps MM has a higher profit margin and higher costs due to be restricted to importing euro spec with euro options. If they could import the 247 hp JDM version, they would. Who wants to settle for less hp?
The reason for the price diff is simple. PIs buy from the distributors in Japan, whereas MM gets it from the factory direct so they have a discount. The prices at PIs are the yen prices without tax and then converted to SGD with the current exchange rates to get your OMV. MM and other car agents in SG do a direct deal with the factory and they are also tied to a volume. ie if lets say they hit 100 cars per month they get some rebates and thus make even more money.

Also note that warranty claims are fully borne by mazda factory(or any other manufacturer) and not MM. even labour is paid for by the factory. So MM(and other local car agents)has a Fat profit margin for selling the cars. Their risks are comparitively low.

Coupe07 is right about the second cooler. weather is the determinant. I'm not too sure if the car has a oil thermostat, if it has then having 2 coolers will not overcool the oil even in japan. yes, oil being too cool is also not good.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by CoupeM
How any trackies wanna share??? On normal roads, I am getting 101-102 degrees for oil and water temp. Cannot imagine 6mt with 1 oil cooler running at wat kind of temp.

I dont like cat....been trying to run down my neighbour's cat for years. Always come and **** in my flowerpot.
Hi CoupeM, where are you tapping the oil temp sensor? oil filter area? and water temp at the output hose to the radiator?
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:51 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by gfoo
KS cat? sluuurp..... AT can use or not?
nope. 6MT only. Not tested on the 4AT.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 09:53 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by sqflyer
Ok, can do a complete install and swap when everything is ready?
hahaha... will let u noe..... cos if my system is full RE, guaranteed 30 horses ok.. on wheel.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:20 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by coupe07
hahaha... will let u noe..... cos if my system is full RE, guaranteed 30 horses ok.. on wheel.
*cough cough*......different colour car will have different hp output ok.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 11:09 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by mkl22
Hi CoupeM, where are you tapping the oil temp sensor? oil filter area? and water temp at the output hose to the radiator?
Water temp should be from output hose. Oil temp is from a sandwich installed at the oil filter.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:09 AM
  #62  
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Haha.. ok ok. Anyway doesn't matter right?

Was reading wheels today and i saw MM's 8 Hp is now 231. Drop by 7 hp? again?
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:46 AM
  #63  
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erm...when i bought it was already stated 231ps which is about 228bhp
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 04:06 AM
  #64  
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In wheels its stated as hp or did i see wrongly. So if 231ps, its like 19ps off the jdm version.
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