View Poll Results: What's your idle oil range after at least 30mins normal driving (70kmh avg)?
Synthetic: 90-95C
5
38.46%
Synthetic: 96-100C
5
38.46%
Synthetic: 100C-105C
0
0%
Synthetic: >106C
1
7.69%
Dino: 90-95C
0
0%
Dino: 96-100C
2
15.38%
Dino: 100-105C
1
7.69%
Dino: >106C
0
0%
Dino: >110C
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll
AT RX-8 owners: What's your oil temp readings?
05-02-2006, 09:53 PM
#1
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AT RX-8 owners: What's your oil temp readings?
Hi all, just wanted to check in:
City idle temp (normal drive at <90kmh, >30mins of driving): 85-90C
City idle temp (after lut to >130kmh, >30 mins of driving): 95-98C
Highway drive (normal drive at 100kmh, >30mins of driving): 98C
Highway drive (after lut to 150kmh spurts, > 30mins of driving): 105C
Average threshold (evening): 95-98C
Average threshold (morning city jam at Raffles Place): 98C-100C
Location: Singapore with ambient temp range 27-31C
I've noticed that oil temp fluctuates greatly....e.g. after reaching 105C, it cools down within seconds to 95-98C once back to normal drive
City idle temp (normal drive at <90kmh, >30mins of driving): 85-90C
City idle temp (after lut to >130kmh, >30 mins of driving): 95-98C
Highway drive (normal drive at 100kmh, >30mins of driving): 98C
Highway drive (after lut to 150kmh spurts, > 30mins of driving): 105C
Average threshold (evening): 95-98C
Average threshold (morning city jam at Raffles Place): 98C-100C
Location: Singapore with ambient temp range 27-31C
I've noticed that oil temp fluctuates greatly....e.g. after reaching 105C, it cools down within seconds to 95-98C once back to normal drive
Last edited by gfoo; 05-02-2006 at 10:03 PM.
05-02-2006, 09:59 PM
#2
New Member
That is not bad.. is that a high power or low power engine...
You know some AT has 6 port Renesis now.... me thinks
I have 2 oil cooler and it benefit as cruising at 100kmh I get only 78 degree C oil temp
You know some AT has 6 port Renesis now.... me thinks
I have 2 oil cooler and it benefit as cruising at 100kmh I get only 78 degree C oil temp
05-02-2006, 10:00 PM
#3
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engine's as good as the stock jdm the day i bought it, but i admit i'm one of those 0-100 traffic light - to - traffic light cheap thrill junkies. i only have 1 oil cooler so far. Cruise at 95C after spirited driving
05-03-2006, 12:00 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by takahashi
That is not bad.. is that a high power or low power engine...
You know some AT has 6 port Renesis now.... me thinks
I have 2 oil cooler and it benefit as cruising at 100kmh I get only 78 degree C oil temp
You know some AT has 6 port Renesis now.... me thinks
I have 2 oil cooler and it benefit as cruising at 100kmh I get only 78 degree C oil temp
i'm juz curious, the 4AT now has 6 port? as in 6speed?
can you shed some light on that? thanks.
over here, most if not all our ATs are still on the 4port/4speed
which means 210ps.
i'm also just wondering between the Euro spec 6MT@238ps and the JDM6MT@250ps, is the difference noticable?
Since the Euro spec 6MT is "detuned" for emission reasons, does that mean the difference is across the rpm band or restricted to the low rpms/city driving?
thanks to anyone whom can shed some light
05-03-2006, 12:38 AM
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maybe you could also mentioned where the oil temp sensor is located. cause it will affect readings too. thinking of adding an additional oil cooler. Mine is a PI 6MT, with only one cooler.
05-03-2006, 01:16 AM
#7
New Member
I think Japan has but I am not 100% sure... new 2006 models...?
I thought I was reading it somewhere in some Jap mag... anyhow
My sensor is placed at the sandwich between the filter and the engien
I thought I was reading it somewhere in some Jap mag... anyhow
My sensor is placed at the sandwich between the filter and the engien
05-03-2006, 11:43 PM
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Kreuzer: yeah, we've all got aftermarket oil temp gauges. Readings are off the sandwich which are norm provided for with the gauges, and placed between the engine and oil filter.
05-04-2006, 07:36 AM
#13
THE GREAT WHITE
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Btw i wonder if it will be a waste of time if i were to mount another oil cooler behind the present one. Its about time i get another one, way way overdue.
man, looks like getting parts is no different from pokemon - got to get them all
man, looks like getting parts is no different from pokemon - got to get them all
05-04-2006, 07:49 AM
#14
New Member
You guys are so wrong..
(I am still in singlet) with heaters on though
I think the weather counts. When I race a month ago in 32 degree heat, the water temp can go above 112 degree C but last Sunday when it was just 17 degree C, the water temp barely go over 100 degree
Oil temp has always been lower than 100 degree C.
And I use A/C since there is climate control in my 8.
(I am still in singlet) with heaters on though
I think the weather counts. When I race a month ago in 32 degree heat, the water temp can go above 112 degree C but last Sunday when it was just 17 degree C, the water temp barely go over 100 degree
Oil temp has always been lower than 100 degree C.
And I use A/C since there is climate control in my 8.
05-04-2006, 07:50 AM
#15
New Member
Originally Posted by sgrenesis
Btw i wonder if it will be a waste of time if i were to mount another oil cooler behind the present one. Its about time i get another one, way way overdue.
man, looks like getting parts is no different from pokemon - got to get them all
man, looks like getting parts is no different from pokemon - got to get them all
Of course it is a waste of time....
You can try changing to something like the HKS which has 2 more row than stock. Or just have 2 serial oil coolers instead of one.
06-04-2006, 08:17 PM
#16
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Just thought i will add some info on this thread for AT owners. I added an oil cooler on my 8 on saturday. Before my oil temp ranges between 95-100. After add on, Oil temperature reading hasnt gone above 90 degrees yet. (normal driving conditions).
Unless there's something wrong with my defi's, Two thumbs up to this add on.
Unless there's something wrong with my defi's, Two thumbs up to this add on.
06-04-2006, 08:55 PM
#17
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Help, make me less ignorant please...
Originally Posted by Siesta
Just thought i will add some info on this thread for AT owners. I added an oil cooler on my 8 on saturday. Before my oil temp ranges between 95-100. After add on, Oil temperature reading hasnt gone above 90 degrees yet. (normal driving conditions).
Unless there's something wrong with my defi's, Two thumbs up to this add on.
Unless there's something wrong with my defi's, Two thumbs up to this add on.
: How much difference, performance-wise (FC or power delivery etc?) does it make to the car whether its 100deg or 90deg? I am assuming that the 8 is design to withstand much higher temps consistently? Slight digression: I was told that certain engine oils will make a difference in keeping your engine temps within a reasonable range. Is that true?
And related to the above; Help me here --- whats the difference in the various engine oils -- everyone has their favourite engine oils but I am still igonrant what is the result/outputs that I am suppose to get from one type of oil to another. I can't feel it or not sure what to look for.
I have mostly used mineral oils with the occassional semi or fully synthetic... no particular brands... just what is avaliable. BUt i do change every 5,000kms.
06-05-2006, 01:45 AM
#18
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Switching from mineral to semi-syn to fully syn and now race syn. I realise overall temps drop approx 10 degrees. cooler is always better for all things mechanical.
Good oil lowers friction. And friction causes heat and wear. So lower temps also can mean lower wear.
High temps also make the engine bay hotter than what it should be and wouldn't this affect everything in it?
Good oil lowers friction. And friction causes heat and wear. So lower temps also can mean lower wear.
High temps also make the engine bay hotter than what it should be and wouldn't this affect everything in it?
06-05-2006, 10:12 PM
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Racing 41 by royal purple. The temp drop is not too great between rp's 10w-40 and racing 41. The only time i notice it may be lower is only when i drag and the weather it hot. It maybe protects the engine more under extreme conditions. Otherwise rp's normal syn is quite good enough.
There is no visco ratings for racing 41, its only comparable to 10w-40.
There is no visco ratings for racing 41, its only comparable to 10w-40.
06-06-2006, 03:10 AM
#21
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Emperror: wasn't there some guy who recently said that he was told my MM that they recommend mineral instead of syn? What do you think of that? Any diff?
06-06-2006, 11:05 AM
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Even there is really a difference. With a 10 year COE and most people changing cars within 5 years. I doubt anyone will know.
If there really was a problem with syn; the 8 is already about 3 years old. Someone would have already encountered something serious and at least we would have heard something. If we heard nothing, we can safely presume
1)Nothing serious has happened to warrant a big hoo-ha
2)..Not from Mazda or big syn lube makers.. with big red warning labels....
3)..nothing from the US where lawsuits fly and warnings are mandated..
4) Very least we know nothing serious can happen in 3 years of usage.
Why we see "coolant only" Unleaded Only" "r134A refrigerant Only" "brake fluid only" and alot of other **** only but WHY NO MINERAL OIL ONLY???
Whats the diff? Whats the diff between a fully researched, fully filtered and full chemically engineered oil and a purifed natural oil? Will combining hydrogen and oxygen net you a purer water than purifying sea water? Maybe the answer is in my question itself?
And of course. Since i am using royal pruple and they clarified that syn does no harm to the rotary. I may benefit from a class action lawsuit against them (if any)...
"conspiracy theories or urban legends are the attempted sophistication of the ill-informed and wisdom-challenged"
If there really was a problem with syn; the 8 is already about 3 years old. Someone would have already encountered something serious and at least we would have heard something. If we heard nothing, we can safely presume
1)Nothing serious has happened to warrant a big hoo-ha
2)..Not from Mazda or big syn lube makers.. with big red warning labels....
3)..nothing from the US where lawsuits fly and warnings are mandated..
4) Very least we know nothing serious can happen in 3 years of usage.
Why we see "coolant only" Unleaded Only" "r134A refrigerant Only" "brake fluid only" and alot of other **** only but WHY NO MINERAL OIL ONLY???
Whats the diff? Whats the diff between a fully researched, fully filtered and full chemically engineered oil and a purifed natural oil? Will combining hydrogen and oxygen net you a purer water than purifying sea water? Maybe the answer is in my question itself?
And of course. Since i am using royal pruple and they clarified that syn does no harm to the rotary. I may benefit from a class action lawsuit against them (if any)...
"conspiracy theories or urban legends are the attempted sophistication of the ill-informed and wisdom-challenged"
06-06-2006, 07:07 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by Emperor
Even there is really a difference. With a 10 year COE and most people changing cars within 5 years. I doubt anyone will know.
If there really was a problem with syn; the 8 is already about 3 years old. Someone would have already encountered something serious and at least we would have heard something. If we heard nothing, we can safely presume
1)Nothing serious has happened to warrant a big hoo-ha
2)..Not from Mazda or big syn lube makers.. with big red warning labels....
3)..nothing from the US where lawsuits fly and warnings are mandated..
4) Very least we know nothing serious can happen in 3 years of usage.
Why we see "coolant only" Unleaded Only" "r134A refrigerant Only" "brake fluid only" and alot of other **** only but WHY NO MINERAL OIL ONLY???
Whats the diff? Whats the diff between a fully researched, fully filtered and full chemically engineered oil and a purifed natural oil? Will combining hydrogen and oxygen net you a purer water than purifying sea water? Maybe the answer is in my question itself?
And of course. Since i am using royal pruple and they clarified that syn does no harm to the rotary. I may benefit from a class action lawsuit against them (if any)...
"conspiracy theories or urban legends are the attempted sophistication of the ill-informed and wisdom-challenged"
If there really was a problem with syn; the 8 is already about 3 years old. Someone would have already encountered something serious and at least we would have heard something. If we heard nothing, we can safely presume
1)Nothing serious has happened to warrant a big hoo-ha
2)..Not from Mazda or big syn lube makers.. with big red warning labels....
3)..nothing from the US where lawsuits fly and warnings are mandated..
4) Very least we know nothing serious can happen in 3 years of usage.
Why we see "coolant only" Unleaded Only" "r134A refrigerant Only" "brake fluid only" and alot of other **** only but WHY NO MINERAL OIL ONLY???
Whats the diff? Whats the diff between a fully researched, fully filtered and full chemically engineered oil and a purifed natural oil? Will combining hydrogen and oxygen net you a purer water than purifying sea water? Maybe the answer is in my question itself?
And of course. Since i am using royal pruple and they clarified that syn does no harm to the rotary. I may benefit from a class action lawsuit against them (if any)...
"conspiracy theories or urban legends are the attempted sophistication of the ill-informed and wisdom-challenged"
Mister Emperor: Hopefully this should kill off one of the two broken-records; FC issues and which oil?
So from from now on, ye shall be only known as the Oil Oracle.
Last edited by lowrider; 06-06-2006 at 07:09 PM.