Manual vs auto
12-05-2006, 06:01 AM
#1
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Manual vs auto
Can the auto be played like a manual car like drop gear n such...wil the 0-100km timing hv very huge gap...thkin of gettin manual by wife wil drive it sm times so hv to get auto 
...can the auto car be modded like the manual like addin supercharge or turbo
...can the auto car be modded like the manual like addin supercharge or turbo
12-05-2006, 07:12 AM
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Differences between an auto and a manual has been discussed many times before so you can do a search for more detailed info. Just a few quick answers if it's enough for you.
1. Drop gear while car in motion should be fine, it should be smart enough not to let you drop into too low a gear. Dropping INTO gear while revving will eventually kill the AT.
2. "hugh gap" for 0-100 is up to individual. Some think 6" is enough, others like a foot long.. I'm talking about subway sandwich lah.. u pervs.
3. There is a turbo kit for AT but there are less mods available for ATs.
1. Drop gear while car in motion should be fine, it should be smart enough not to let you drop into too low a gear. Dropping INTO gear while revving will eventually kill the AT.
2. "hugh gap" for 0-100 is up to individual. Some think 6" is enough, others like a foot long.. I'm talking about subway sandwich lah.. u pervs.
3. There is a turbo kit for AT but there are less mods available for ATs.
12-05-2006, 07:14 AM
#4
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Drop gear... depends on your RPM... if keeping within 7000 rpm should be ok... but don't expect instant response like a manual clutch...
Century timing... I feel its huge... if I'm not wrong some of the owners here clocked a difference of 3-seconds plus between the AT and MT (MT faster lah... hahahaha!), so I feel that it qualifies as a HUGE difference to me.
The AT feels like a V6 Lexus when picking up... fast but not that fast for a sports car. The boss of RE Amemiya called the AT a sportscar without power in a recent interview... His solution? Turbocharge the bugger!!
Century timing... I feel its huge... if I'm not wrong some of the owners here clocked a difference of 3-seconds plus between the AT and MT (MT faster lah... hahahaha!), so I feel that it qualifies as a HUGE difference to me.
The AT feels like a V6 Lexus when picking up... fast but not that fast for a sports car. The boss of RE Amemiya called the AT a sportscar without power in a recent interview... His solution? Turbocharge the bugger!!
12-05-2006, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Freestyle
Drop gear... depends on your RPM... if keeping within 7000 rpm should be ok... but don't expect instant response like a manual clutch...
With any auto's... just don't do it, especially from anything even close to 7k rpm.
Mods will depend more on whether you have the 4 port or the 6 port.
12-05-2006, 07:34 AM
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Guys,.. there is a difference between dropping gear while car is already in motion and DROPPING INTO GEAR to launch the car from standstill. Don't mix the two.
12-05-2006, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sqflyer
Differences between an auto and a manual has been discussed many times before so you can do a search for more detailed info. Just a few quick answers if it's enough for you.
1. Drop gear while car in motion should be fine, it should be smart enough not to let you drop into too low a gear. Dropping INTO gear while revving will eventually kill the AT.
2. "hugh gap" for 0-100 is up to individual. Some think 6" is enough, others like a foot long.. I'm talking about subway sandwich lah.. u pervs.
3. There is a turbo kit for AT but there are less mods available for ATs.
1. Drop gear while car in motion should be fine, it should be smart enough not to let you drop into too low a gear. Dropping INTO gear while revving will eventually kill the AT.
2. "hugh gap" for 0-100 is up to individual. Some think 6" is enough, others like a foot long.. I'm talking about subway sandwich lah.. u pervs.
3. There is a turbo kit for AT but there are less mods available for ATs.
12-05-2006, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cjkim
so another extra 2000 rpm is what kills the transmission? yeah right.
With any auto's... just don't do it, especially from anything even close to 7k rpm.
Mods will depend more on whether you have the 4 port or the 6 port.
With any auto's... just don't do it, especially from anything even close to 7k rpm.
Mods will depend more on whether you have the 4 port or the 6 port.
but our AT hit 9000rpm
12-05-2006, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by my8
i m not sure abt u
but our AT hit 9000rpm
but our AT hit 9000rpm
2. unless you modded it, its 7500
1.3 Liter RENESIS 2-rotor rotary Standard
6-speed AT with paddle shifters and Adaptive Shift Logic Available
Horsepower, SAE net 212 @ 7,500
Torque, SAE net (lb./ft.) 159 @ 5,500
Redline 7500
Displacement (L) 0.654L x 2
Bore x Stroke (inches) Not Available
Compression Ratio 10.0 : 1
12-06-2006, 12:05 AM
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hmmm
Originally Posted by cjkim
1. i have a manual
2. unless you modded it, its 7500
1.3 Liter RENESIS 2-rotor rotary Standard
6-speed AT with paddle shifters and Adaptive Shift Logic Available
Horsepower, SAE net 212 @ 7,500
Torque, SAE net (lb./ft.) 159 @ 5,500
Redline 7500
Displacement (L) 0.654L x 2
Bore x Stroke (inches) Not Available
Compression Ratio 10.0 : 1
2. unless you modded it, its 7500
1.3 Liter RENESIS 2-rotor rotary Standard
6-speed AT with paddle shifters and Adaptive Shift Logic Available
Horsepower, SAE net 212 @ 7,500
Torque, SAE net (lb./ft.) 159 @ 5,500
Redline 7500
Displacement (L) 0.654L x 2
Bore x Stroke (inches) Not Available
Compression Ratio 10.0 : 1
12-06-2006, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver_Z
There are less mods for AT due to the transmission or the 4 port engine?
12-06-2006, 12:19 AM
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Hmm.. I have a 6MT so I'm not 100% certain, but if I remember correctly, our 4ATs here have a redline higher than 7500. The new 6ATs are just beginning to arrive and maybe they are limited to a 7500 redline. Hmm.. if that's the case, a bit LPPL (local slang: same difference) leh. Give a 6-port engine, but limited to 7500 redline.
Originally Posted by cjkim
1. i have a manual
2. unless you modded it, its 7500
1.3 Liter RENESIS 2-rotor rotary Standard
6-speed AT with paddle shifters and Adaptive Shift Logic Available
Horsepower, SAE net 212 @ 7,500
Torque, SAE net (lb./ft.) 159 @ 5,500
Redline 7500
Displacement (L) 0.654L x 2
Bore x Stroke (inches) Not Available
Compression Ratio 10.0 : 1
2. unless you modded it, its 7500
1.3 Liter RENESIS 2-rotor rotary Standard
6-speed AT with paddle shifters and Adaptive Shift Logic Available
Horsepower, SAE net 212 @ 7,500
Torque, SAE net (lb./ft.) 159 @ 5,500
Redline 7500
Displacement (L) 0.654L x 2
Bore x Stroke (inches) Not Available
Compression Ratio 10.0 : 1
12-06-2006, 05:11 AM
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Hi All
Just a silly question. What is the importance of the red line? What does it affect? I tot the redline is the max rev that u can go before you have t o change gear or the engine will blow? Is that correct? A higher or lower redline is better?
Just a silly question. What is the importance of the red line? What does it affect? I tot the redline is the max rev that u can go before you have t o change gear or the engine will blow? Is that correct? A higher or lower redline is better?
12-06-2006, 09:55 AM
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Redline is what the manufacturer sets as the highest limit that you can rev the engine to safely without damaging it. The engine won't just "blow" up the moment you hit the redline. In fact, modern electronically managed cars have a "rev cut" that will prevent you from over-reving the engine to a point where damage will occur. Of course this is given that the engine is running properly under normal conditions. If something is wrong such as a failure of key components such as cooling, or insufficient engine oil or use of low grade fuel, any engine can be damaged even before reaching redline.
So for a given engine, a higher redline means you can get more power out of it and vice versa. Therefore as far as redlines are concerned, the higher the better.
So for a given engine, a higher redline means you can get more power out of it and vice versa. Therefore as far as redlines are concerned, the higher the better.
12-06-2006, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sqflyer
Redline is what the manufacturer sets as the highest limit that you can rev the engine to safely without damaging it. The engine won't just "blow" up the moment you hit the redline. In fact, modern electronically managed cars have a "rev cut" that will prevent you from over-reving the engine to a point where damage will occur. Of course this is given that the engine is running properly under normal conditions. If something is wrong such as a failure of key components such as cooling, or insufficient engine oil or use of low grade fuel, any engine can be damaged even before reaching redline.
So for a given engine, a higher redline means you can get more power out of it and vice versa. Therefore as far as redlines are concerned, the higher the better.
So for a given engine, a higher redline means you can get more power out of it and vice versa. Therefore as far as redlines are concerned, the higher the better.
12-07-2006, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by nfs
Thanks a million for the explanation, sq!! Now i have a better idea!!
12-07-2006, 06:20 AM
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I test drove a 4AT version and the low end power was quite bad imo - course it was only a stock car with no mods and the car was full (my 2 mates and the salesman).
On the same day I drove the 6MT and was hooked. It was a stock vehicle too again with 3 guys other than myself in it and the difference in power was immediately apparent. I still managed to wheelspin it as I changed up to second gear.
I put a deposit down the moment we got back to the showroom :D
On the same day I drove the 6MT and was hooked. It was a stock vehicle too again with 3 guys other than myself in it and the difference in power was immediately apparent. I still managed to wheelspin it as I changed up to second gear.
I put a deposit down the moment we got back to the showroom :D
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