Done a tad over a thousand miles in mine, but twice now having start up probs in the morning. has any one else suffered any...obviously for the reason of not wanting to flood and bugger up the engine.

 

Smiffy,

You may find some helpfull information here.

http://www.rx8ownersclub.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=6

Cheers
Oilman

 

Hi Smiffy,

I have 2000 km and never had any problems starting up in the morning. What I always do, as I remember from driving NSU, is rev up a bit before cutting the engine. So you fully emties the rotors and I think this helps starting up. My car is outside, under a carport. He is not stalled in high temparature.

regards,
Patrick

 

Smiffy, if your 'hard starting' means that you have to crank the engine a little longer than usual every now and again, or it doesn't kick in after the first crank, don't worry. That is just something that happens sometimes on rotaries. As long as you follow the procedures for start/stop/cold starting on this forum you won't have problems flooding (cross fingers!).

If you are REALLY having a hard time starting, see your dealer.

 

Thats exactly the opposite of what you should be doing!!!
Revving up just before shutting off the engine is one of the main reasons for flooding. Pressing the gas pedal in order to rev up means closed loop for the ECU, which means rich A/F mixture, which in turn means a lot of fuel left inside the rotors.....

 

I don't think Patrick is saying to pump the accelerator pedal to the floor, just to have it lightly depressed when you turn the key off (as per Mazda instructions). This gives the apex and side seals time to 'scrape' off excess fuel as the rotor winds down. Trouble is, that fuel hasn't got anywhere to go on the new side-port engine...but let's not start that story again!

 

Yup I do exactly that. . little blip on throttle n switch off. This burns off remaining fuel etc.

Before I started doing this I had identical starting problems.

Termite

 

Useless, nowaday's powerful OBD ECUs ensure to cut injection before ignition in order to burn all fuel before reaching hot catalyst. With unburnt charge in the catalyst, you obtain a strong exothermal reaction leading to catbrick melt-down.

I don't think blipping the throttle is of any help as the throttle position gradient when you release it won't be large enough to trigger decel fuel cut-off.

Please don't consider engine engineers, especially Japanese ones, like amateurs!

 

IKnowNot'ing, I think that you may have misunderstood this problem, or the suggested prevention measure, or both.

The problem is unburnt fuel in the rotor chamber, causing difficult starting sometimes. (Particularly when starting the engine and then switching it off in a very short time)

One of the suggested preventative measures is to switch the engine off while holding the rpm up around 2,000 to 4,000rpm. The moment you switch the ignition off fuel supply is cut, and the 'winding down' of the rotors helps evacuate any fuel that might be trapped in the housings out the exhaust.

Not a very complex solution, but sometimes simple solutions are all that work on complex problems...Verstandlich?

 

THe above solution might work, but unfortunatelly it would only do so in the 13B with the ports on the outside of the chambers. The Renesis has the ports on the sides, which makes it much more difficult for the air/fuel mixture to be "removed" in such a manner.....
Indeed, we should all be confident that the Mazda mechanics know best

 

Thanks Ace, I do think the same. Engine management systems have evolved quite a bit since the NSUs. Engineers drive and dyno-test cars for years before releasing a calibration, in cold and hot conditions.
I understand the rationale behind the throttle blip before turning off the engine, but I strongly believe he won't have any measurable effect.