Servicing
08-29-2003, 11:11 AM
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Servicing
Had a chat with my dealer today regarding servicing. Mazda are looking at menu servicing at are using the the RX7 servicing rates/tariffs as a guide. More info on this to come, but they tell me there is no planned "free" first 1000 mile oil change. The oil change will be at the first service.
Anil.
Anil.
08-30-2003, 02:41 PM
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Reading the PDF of the owners handbook, I noticed that there is instruction on how to change the oil but they noted that the FILTER required a special tool to re-tighten, so I wonder if anyone has any more details... if we're all going to have to do our own 1000 mile oil change, then I suppose that we'll all need one... If anyone from Mazda is reading... perhaps they can put one in the glove box of my car?
08-30-2003, 04:21 PM
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see this thread for more on oil filter changing
http://www.rx8forum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9604
Mark
http://www.rx8forum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9604
Mark
08-31-2003, 05:18 AM
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Sounds like we should form the official UK RX8 owners club, buy one of these tools and all do our first oil change on the first meet up. I'm sure we'll all hit 1000 or so miles pretty quickly.:p
I've never been into servicing anything on my cars myself TBH - the only thing I ever do is tyre pressure and oil top ups. Are any of you other guys into DIY oil changes and if so how easy is it?
I've never been into servicing anything on my cars myself TBH - the only thing I ever do is tyre pressure and oil top ups. Are any of you other guys into DIY oil changes and if so how easy is it?
08-31-2003, 12:18 PM
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retightening an oil filter should not require a special tool. At a guess it will be the one size fits all Mazda filter used on the RX8. This is a "spin on" type and should never be tightened more than hand tight (its only a rubber seal anyway) otherwise its a bugger to take off.
You may require a tool to remove the filter but a universal one should work unless space is really restricted.
Mike
You may require a tool to remove the filter but a universal one should work unless space is really restricted.
Mike
08-31-2003, 01:00 PM
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Hi
Changing the oil is easy as long as you have the right tool to undo the sump plug. Some cars have a standard thread so as long as you find the right sized socket you can take it off. Other cars need a special attachment, I guess this is to deter DIY servicing and help boost the incomes of our cash-strapped dealers. I dont know what the RX8 has got, the best way is for the next person who has a test drive to slide underneath and have a look - even then the pre-prod might be different so you might have to wait till you own the thing.
Anyway all you have to do is warm the oil by a quick drive round the block, then get a big container underneath - a washing up bowl is ideal, and undo the sump plug. Do not make the following mistakes I have made:
1) undo the gearbox sump plug
2) try to wash up the dinner things in the bowl afterwards (or let the wife / missus try and do it)
3) use something too small so the oil pisses out
4) put it in the wrong place so it misses altogether and see above.
Finally I doubt you need to change the filter after 1000 miles. But it has to be changed on a major service.
Cheers
JH
Changing the oil is easy as long as you have the right tool to undo the sump plug. Some cars have a standard thread so as long as you find the right sized socket you can take it off. Other cars need a special attachment, I guess this is to deter DIY servicing and help boost the incomes of our cash-strapped dealers. I dont know what the RX8 has got, the best way is for the next person who has a test drive to slide underneath and have a look - even then the pre-prod might be different so you might have to wait till you own the thing.
Anyway all you have to do is warm the oil by a quick drive round the block, then get a big container underneath - a washing up bowl is ideal, and undo the sump plug. Do not make the following mistakes I have made:
1) undo the gearbox sump plug
2) try to wash up the dinner things in the bowl afterwards (or let the wife / missus try and do it)
3) use something too small so the oil pisses out
4) put it in the wrong place so it misses altogether and see above.
Finally I doubt you need to change the filter after 1000 miles. But it has to be changed on a major service.
Cheers
JH
08-31-2003, 01:30 PM
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Other things that will help.
1. When draining the system take a sharp tool (bradawl or phillips screwdriver) and punch a hole in the middle and around the edge of the top side of the filter, this allows the oil to drain out faster and makes removal of the filter less messy. Remember the filter is mounted upside down on the RX-8.
I don't know about the rest of you but I usually add an engine flush product to the oil just before warm up. What are everyones thoughts on this.
Sump plug is simple bolt and washer on all other Mazdas I've worked on.
Jon's right about using a sutible container though, get it wrong and it can be messy.
Most importantly dispose of the used oil responsibly, most local authority dump sites have a waste oil recycling facility now. So decant your used oil into the container you brought your fresh oil in and dispose of it correctly.
1. When draining the system take a sharp tool (bradawl or phillips screwdriver) and punch a hole in the middle and around the edge of the top side of the filter, this allows the oil to drain out faster and makes removal of the filter less messy. Remember the filter is mounted upside down on the RX-8.
I don't know about the rest of you but I usually add an engine flush product to the oil just before warm up. What are everyones thoughts on this.
Sump plug is simple bolt and washer on all other Mazdas I've worked on.
Jon's right about using a sutible container though, get it wrong and it can be messy.
Most importantly dispose of the used oil responsibly, most local authority dump sites have a waste oil recycling facility now. So decant your used oil into the container you brought your fresh oil in and dispose of it correctly.
08-31-2003, 01:43 PM
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If you haven't changed your oil before please take note (This is a TRUE story):-
I gave my Uncle the same advice I have been reading from Jon & TG.
A couple of days later he rang & said he had done everything as explained (even down to taking oil to the tip for recycling).
When I said that he'd saved himself a couple of quid & wasn't exactly hard his reply was " Yes but it's bloody time consuming so you can understand why people take them to the garage"
I asked if he'd had trouble getting the filter off but his reply was:
" Getting the oil out was fine put trying to pour the new stuff in through that piddly little hole was a nightmare!"
HE'D ONLY REFILLED THE ENGINE THROUGH THE DIPSTICK
ENOUGH SAID!!!!!!!
I gave my Uncle the same advice I have been reading from Jon & TG.
A couple of days later he rang & said he had done everything as explained (even down to taking oil to the tip for recycling).
When I said that he'd saved himself a couple of quid & wasn't exactly hard his reply was " Yes but it's bloody time consuming so you can understand why people take them to the garage"
I asked if he'd had trouble getting the filter off but his reply was:
" Getting the oil out was fine put trying to pour the new stuff in through that piddly little hole was a nightmare!"
HE'D ONLY REFILLED THE ENGINE THROUGH THE DIPSTICK
ENOUGH SAID!!!!!!!
08-31-2003, 02:34 PM
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Originally posted by Titanium Grey
Other things that will help.
I don't know about the rest of you but I usually add an engine flush product to the oil just before warm up. What are everyones thoughts on this.
Other things that will help.
I don't know about the rest of you but I usually add an engine flush product to the oil just before warm up. What are everyones thoughts on this.
08-31-2003, 03:42 PM
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Oh yes, Titanium's note reminded me:
You can punch a hole in the filter to drain it - using a large screwdriver will do this, plus you can use that to lever it round and loosen it a bit. But, based on my own bitter experience...
Do not take out the screwdriver and try to undo the filter by hand, unless you want to lose more blood than the car will lose oil.
And remember to replace the sump plug before you refill the oil, otherwise you will be amazed how much oil the car needs to refill, as well as how dirty your shoes have just become!
JH
You can punch a hole in the filter to drain it - using a large screwdriver will do this, plus you can use that to lever it round and loosen it a bit. But, based on my own bitter experience...
Do not take out the screwdriver and try to undo the filter by hand, unless you want to lose more blood than the car will lose oil.
And remember to replace the sump plug before you refill the oil, otherwise you will be amazed how much oil the car needs to refill, as well as how dirty your shoes have just become!
JH
09-01-2003, 02:51 AM
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Just had a thought about punching holes in the filter with a screwdriver.
Make sure its sharp and pointed because with the filter being upside down you dont want any metal shards breaking off and droppiing down through the filter into the oil pipework.
As to the oil coolers, not sure if those can be drained without creating air locks. Have to have a look and see when I get mine.
Probably get Mazda to do the first change, and see what they do.
Carl.
Make sure its sharp and pointed because with the filter being upside down you dont want any metal shards breaking off and droppiing down through the filter into the oil pipework.
As to the oil coolers, not sure if those can be drained without creating air locks. Have to have a look and see when I get mine.
Probably get Mazda to do the first change, and see what they do.
Carl.
Last edited by Titanium Grey; 09-01-2003 at 02:53 AM.
09-01-2003, 04:29 AM
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Originally posted by BlueAdept
I don't know about other vehicles, but I've heard that a large percentage of the oil remains in the oil coolers even after you drain it at the sump plug... hence I would not do this on an RX8.
I don't know about other vehicles, but I've heard that a large percentage of the oil remains in the oil coolers even after you drain it at the sump plug... hence I would not do this on an RX8.
09-02-2003, 02:08 AM
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Yes.
The renesis engine is designed to use some oil. It has an oil injector that deliberately puts a small amount of oil into the chamber to lubricate the apex seals.
I believe that the car comes with a litre bottle of oil in the boot.
I'm sure some of the rX-7 owners can supply more details on this.
The renesis engine is designed to use some oil. It has an oil injector that deliberately puts a small amount of oil into the chamber to lubricate the apex seals.
I believe that the car comes with a litre bottle of oil in the boot.
I'm sure some of the rX-7 owners can supply more details on this.
09-02-2003, 05:19 AM
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The oil injectors take oil from the engine itself... if there is a "Little Bottle" it can only be for an emergency top up, it is NOT like a 2 stroke bike where there is a separate oil supply.
That said, the amount is extremely small, and it is possible that you may never need to top it up inbetween regular services... There are several threads on oil consumption although I have never payed a great deal of attention to the exact amount that people are reporting burning, as I intend to change my oil more regularly than necessary anyway, so I doubt that I will ever need to know.
That said, the amount is extremely small, and it is possible that you may never need to top it up inbetween regular services... There are several threads on oil consumption although I have never payed a great deal of attention to the exact amount that people are reporting burning, as I intend to change my oil more regularly than necessary anyway, so I doubt that I will ever need to know.
09-02-2003, 05:50 AM
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Please, PLEASE, PLEASE read the comments below carefully, and try to stick to this advice. Almost 99% of the rumours and "problems" you have heard about RX7s and rotaries in general is due to the inability of the car owners to do some simple checks:
1) All rotary engines consume oil. This is the same oil that is used for lubrication. There are additional -smaller- injectors that spray oil directly into the housings, in order to lubricate the apex seals. These injectors are fed by the OMP (Oil Metering Pump). Failure in ANY of these parts (low oil, oil pressure, OMP or injectors) could lead to a blown or stuck engine, so there are numerous checks that are performed by the ECU on this specific issue.
2) Since rotary engines consume oil, the oil checks should be more frequent. No need to do anything fancy, just check the dipstick more often. I used to do this every week (like Sunday morning). It is always a good idea to never let the oil level get below 3/4 between the "Low" and "Max" indicators of the dipstick. That is because you always need the maximum possible supply of oil, in order to maintain a high enough oil pressure. So, DONT NEGLECT TO CHECK THE OIL MORE OFTEN.
3) Because of that lubrication of the apex seals, rotary engines burn oil. This is normal. If they dont burn oil, THEN you have a problem. So, oil is actually consumed by the engine, and so its level decreases more rapidly. It is always a good idea to carry around an additional bottle (about 1lt is enough) of the exact same oil you have in the engine. If you are on a long trip, never forget to check the oil before or after you reach your destination. Fill it up whenever necessary. Dont neglect it, and say "I'll do it tomorrow".
4) There have been thousands of discussions, posts, threads, FAQs, whole sites dedicated to the arguments "Dino or Synthetic Oil for rotaries ?". Synthetic is better at lubrication, but dino oil is cheaper, and burns more cleanly, leaving no ash behind (which is very dangerous for rotaries). However, since Mazda knows best, stick to the oil supplied with the RX8, and keep buying the same thing. Remember that if you want to change to a different type/brand/viscosity oil, you have to completely flush the engine, clean it, and only then pour the new oil in.
5) Oil changes and oil fill-ups are as easy as with any other car. Just check the dipstick, and if its below the 3/4 between "Low" and "Max", just fill in the rest. If its time for a change, simply take off the oil cap, take off oil filter, and then remove the lower bolt from the oil pan. Drain. Place all back in, and fill it up. Thats it!
6) Never, NEVER, ever add any "oil enhancement" products in rotary engines (like teflon or anything similar). These will lead to much faster failure of the engine, since they dont burn cleanly (some of them dont burn AT ALL), and they tend to build up right inside the housings. Guess what that means ?
7) Never, NEVER, NEVER (and I cannt stress this enough) drive around a rotary with low oil pressure, blown oil lines, or blown oil cooler lines. Its not a piston engine. If the rotary doesnt have oil, it WILL seize. The Renesis is supposed to be much, much "tougher" in this area than the 13B, but still you can all understand what I want to say here. If you lose oil pressure due to -highly unlikely- oil lines damage, just stop, see if you can repair what has been damaged, and if not, call Assistance. Its not worth it seizing your beautiful Renesis.......
So in general, rotaries need a bit more attention at their oil supply. Nothing fancy or terrible, just more often checks, and a bottle of oil in the car, just in case........
1) All rotary engines consume oil. This is the same oil that is used for lubrication. There are additional -smaller- injectors that spray oil directly into the housings, in order to lubricate the apex seals. These injectors are fed by the OMP (Oil Metering Pump). Failure in ANY of these parts (low oil, oil pressure, OMP or injectors) could lead to a blown or stuck engine, so there are numerous checks that are performed by the ECU on this specific issue.
2) Since rotary engines consume oil, the oil checks should be more frequent. No need to do anything fancy, just check the dipstick more often. I used to do this every week (like Sunday morning). It is always a good idea to never let the oil level get below 3/4 between the "Low" and "Max" indicators of the dipstick. That is because you always need the maximum possible supply of oil, in order to maintain a high enough oil pressure. So, DONT NEGLECT TO CHECK THE OIL MORE OFTEN.
3) Because of that lubrication of the apex seals, rotary engines burn oil. This is normal. If they dont burn oil, THEN you have a problem. So, oil is actually consumed by the engine, and so its level decreases more rapidly. It is always a good idea to carry around an additional bottle (about 1lt is enough) of the exact same oil you have in the engine. If you are on a long trip, never forget to check the oil before or after you reach your destination. Fill it up whenever necessary. Dont neglect it, and say "I'll do it tomorrow".
4) There have been thousands of discussions, posts, threads, FAQs, whole sites dedicated to the arguments "Dino or Synthetic Oil for rotaries ?". Synthetic is better at lubrication, but dino oil is cheaper, and burns more cleanly, leaving no ash behind (which is very dangerous for rotaries). However, since Mazda knows best, stick to the oil supplied with the RX8, and keep buying the same thing. Remember that if you want to change to a different type/brand/viscosity oil, you have to completely flush the engine, clean it, and only then pour the new oil in.
5) Oil changes and oil fill-ups are as easy as with any other car. Just check the dipstick, and if its below the 3/4 between "Low" and "Max", just fill in the rest. If its time for a change, simply take off the oil cap, take off oil filter, and then remove the lower bolt from the oil pan. Drain. Place all back in, and fill it up. Thats it!
6) Never, NEVER, ever add any "oil enhancement" products in rotary engines (like teflon or anything similar). These will lead to much faster failure of the engine, since they dont burn cleanly (some of them dont burn AT ALL), and they tend to build up right inside the housings. Guess what that means ?
7) Never, NEVER, NEVER (and I cannt stress this enough) drive around a rotary with low oil pressure, blown oil lines, or blown oil cooler lines. Its not a piston engine. If the rotary doesnt have oil, it WILL seize. The Renesis is supposed to be much, much "tougher" in this area than the 13B, but still you can all understand what I want to say here. If you lose oil pressure due to -highly unlikely- oil lines damage, just stop, see if you can repair what has been damaged, and if not, call Assistance. Its not worth it seizing your beautiful Renesis.......
So in general, rotaries need a bit more attention at their oil supply. Nothing fancy or terrible, just more often checks, and a bottle of oil in the car, just in case........
Last edited by The Ace; 09-02-2003 at 07:11 AM.
09-02-2003, 06:28 AM
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Ace - fantastic post if I may say so.
Couldn't have said it better myself !
People should not be scared of the rotary - and you and I already know that some (most?) will come to love this amazing engine !
M.
Couldn't have said it better myself !
People should not be scared of the rotary - and you and I already know that some (most?) will come to love this amazing engine !
M.
09-02-2003, 07:13 AM
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Originally posted by RX-Late
The test drive RX8 I had a spin in had a bottle of oil in the boot. Is this a standard feature?
The test drive RX8 I had a spin in had a bottle of oil in the boot. Is this a standard feature?
However this is exactly what I was trying to say: its a very good and prudent idea to have a bottle of oil in the trunk, in case something goes wrong, or you have gone on a very long trip, and you cannt find your brand of oil at the place you are
09-02-2003, 07:18 AM
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Originally posted by The Ace
No, I dont think so! :D
However this is exactly what I was trying to say: its a very good and prudent idea to have a bottle of oil in the trunk, in case something goes wrong, or you have gone on a very long trip, and you cannt find your brand of oil at the place you are
No, I dont think so! :D
However this is exactly what I was trying to say: its a very good and prudent idea to have a bottle of oil in the trunk, in case something goes wrong, or you have gone on a very long trip, and you cannt find your brand of oil at the place you are
