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well you can get the Banzai mount instead if you think a heavy steel flat bar design makes more sense than a stainless tubular design ...
Otherwise I don't understand why you'd present the situation one way and then clarify as something entirely different? Seems like maybe the bad taste in the mouth went both ways afterall ...
A tubular design with thin tabs and welded at bad angles. A center section that utilizes only 4 of the 6 mounting holes on flimsy, thin walled "tubes" and flange, which is then bolted to with the most pathetic excuse for poly mounts.
We actually designed our mount because this is such a terribly designed piece.
Simplicity is genius, any fool can make it complicated.
5/16" thick steel, with real poly mounts. Our mount supports the entire car, not just the engine.
Unfortunately work got in the way of my build the past month and a half so there wasn't a whole lot of progress made. However, the biggest change is that I'll be switching to Motec engine management with an M84! I'll also be using a CDL3 dash with the track kit modules - super stoked for this!!
Another exciting update is the addition of my Brooks Motorsport rear wing with chassis mount. It's currently just laying in place for now as I need to reinforce the floor, but I couldn't be happier with how it looks!
Up next is to hopefully get my car back up in the air (warehouse renovations mean it has to stay movable) so I can get my new Banzai motor mount on finally. Then it's time to get cracking!!
Sorry, it's been quite a long time since I've updated. Work took over my life this summer unfortunately, so I sadly spent my whole summer working on everyone's race car but my own! The car visually looks a lot closer to complete than it really is, here are some pics below of where it's at right now:
Roll cage is done:
Interior is looking pretty good as well, with the exception of my pedals & wiring harness. I have OnPoint Dyno building me a badass drop-in chassis & engine harness for my car which should be a straight-forward install once they're done with it. My pedal situation is a bit fucked up as I ordered a drop-in setup from OBP as they assured me their setup would work for LHD & RHD cars, however, I tried to install it yesterday and it doesn't clearly hits the steering column...back to the drawing board
Trunk lid has been cut, and is back on the car once again. Easy (ish) to remove if required
Last but not least, I will be taking a different route with my power plant in my car. There are a couple other cars locally that built motors the same as the 13B PP I originally built for the car, however, neither of them are making overly impressive power numbers. I sold the engine last week, and I'm still trying to decide what route to go with that. Part of me wants to run an F20c, the other part of me wants to run an already proven 13B-REW setup that would be ready to drop-in & party. If you know anyone with a proven, still running set-up, let me know!
20b is not an option, I'm not spending that kind of $$$ on this car unless someone has one race ready to drop in for super cheap.....which we all know isn't happening....
Yes, however my Motec M84 wouldn't be able to run it, and I really didn't want to take a bath on another system...but yes that would have been arguably the better motor
Last edited by ScubaSteve8; Nov 9, 2015 at 06:44 AM.
Not sure, I likely won't need both but that will be something to figure out as this build progresses...
Making up an adapter plate to reuse the stock RX8 transmission will be the first order of business. I'll for sure have to source a different clutch disc to be compatible with the RX8 spline (23T), but in the S2000 diamater (212mm). Beyond that, the pilot bearing is also different, but sourcing one to mate the two shouldn't be too difficult.
Worst case, I'll run an AP2 transmission, however, I'd like to avoid that if possible since that means custom drive shaft, custom mounts for trans & diff, and figuring out how to get the gear lever further forward since the AP2 trans is a bit longer...
