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MazdaManiac dyno tuning in GTA - Spring/Summer 2010

Old Aug 30, 2010 | 11:27 AM
  #301  
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Okay sounds good... How come replacing SSV actuators? I thought it was holding good up till around 6000 rpm?
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #302  
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
Okay sounds good... How come replacing SSV actuators? I thought it was holding good up till around 6000 rpm?
Back to basics. At WOT there's no significant intake vacuum. So we have one way valves leading to vacuum accumulators one of which is used to drive the SSV AND VDI actuators.
The accumulators are recharged when ever intake vacuum exceeds the charge in the accumulator.

My SSV actuator has a small vacuum leak.
This means that the longer it is actuated at WOT the more likely it will drain the vacuum accumulator under the UIM. When this happens the SSV closes and the VDI never opens. At least that's the current hypothesis. Supposition is that the vacuum bleeds off by around 6K RPM
.

Last edited by DarkBrew; Aug 30, 2010 at 01:22 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #303  
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Okay I follow that.... thats some good sluething there fellas haha.... hope this solves the problem

You found a vacuum leak or you assuming there is one?
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 01:25 PM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
Okay I follow that.... thats some good sluething there fellas haha.... hope this solves the problem

You found a vacuum leak or you assuming there is one?
I followed advice from Jon316G and got a vacuum hand pump; tested everything in the path. That's how I was able to see a vacuum leak on the actuator.
There has to be a root cause for everything: troubleshooting is what I do!
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 02:50 PM
  #305  
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Originally Posted by DarkBrew
I'm currently messing with the DRL module: I'm trying to repair mine.
There was a Fog light rewire specific to Canadian cars somewhere... Must search
I'm hoping to combine some of the info to do something cool....
Okay...

So far I did the DRL module troubleshooting, found a bad relay (one of the CQ1-12V)
Got some replacement parts from the USA and replaced both; they are now working again.
These relays take care of placing the high beam units in series for DRL use so I think that this is the typical failure mode.
Anybody else have this issue? I can easily test your unit and replace the relays.

Now I have to play with the fog light part of the circuit.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #306  
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^^^
Are you talking to yourself again?

I thought it was just all the beers I had drank last Wednesday .....
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by wcs
^^^
Are you talking to yourself again?

I thought it was just all the beers I had drank last Wednesday .....
I have to quote someone intelligent

and Wed I was talking to my car

And those beers were the ones I brought!

Last edited by DarkBrew; Sep 7, 2010 at 11:22 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #308  
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DB any update with the g/s issues, did you get the ssv actuator vacuum leak dealt with?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 02:19 PM
  #309  
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I have the actuator now but will have to pull off a lot of stuff to change it out....
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 10:06 PM
  #310  
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Changed out the actuator
I'll head out tomorrow to gather some data
fingers crossed

Last edited by DarkBrew; Oct 2, 2010 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 02:07 PM
  #311  
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Free post!
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #312  
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pm me please when you get that foglight drl set-up
I wan't that sooooooo bad.

good luck with the actuator fix.
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #313  
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SSV repair datalog

Here is the datalog compared to a previous datalog
Attached Thumbnails MazdaManiac dyno tuning in GTA - Spring/Summer 2010-ap_log_ssv_repair.jpg  
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 02:38 PM
  #314  
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I added the previous dyno data
Attached Thumbnails MazdaManiac dyno tuning in GTA - Spring/Summer 2010-ap_log_ssv_repair.jpg  
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 03:52 PM
  #315  
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w00t
SUCCESS
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #316  
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Do you have any pics of the vacuum pump you used and the actuator you removed? Might as well test mine and replace it if need be while I'm waiting for more turbo parts. Any links to where the actuator is/how to replace or did you just use the shop manual?
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #317  
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Did jeff say if he will come back to toronto next year ?? I sadly couldnt make it out that day WAHHHHH
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 08:10 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
Do you have any pics of the vacuum pump you used and the actuator you removed? Might as well test mine and replace it if need be while I'm waiting for more turbo parts. Any links to where the actuator is/how to replace or did you just use the shop manual?
We mostly made up the procedure... and ended up removing more than we really needed to. You need to remove the air valve and hose from the air pump and the bolt holding the metal down pipe. You'll then have room to remove the bolt holding the actuator. When removing or installing the e-clip place shop cloths under the location to catch it because it will fly! Having a magnetic pick up tool really helped.

Here's a picture I borrowed


I don't have a picture of my vacuum tester but it's something like this
http://www.princessauto.com/hand-too...ke-bleeder-kit

Note: My actuator appeared to be working fine and only failed to sustain full vacuum in a bleed down test.
Even so, it was costing me lots of HP!
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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 09:30 PM
  #319  
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^ So that's nestled in right between the LIM and the rotor housings?
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 01:53 AM
  #320  
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It actually sits right on the LIM at the front of the car. It looks really easy to get to until you try.
You also can't buy the part new by itself so you'll have to get a used one. I found a few available.
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Old Oct 4, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #321  
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Okay, when I get around to testing it and find that it is leaking I'll talk to you about getting a used one..... also to test if it was leaking did you just use the soapy water test? or did you just look to see if the actuator was closing after time?
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 08:10 AM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
Okay, when I get around to testing it and find that it is leaking I'll talk to you about getting a used one..... also to test if it was leaking did you just use the soapy water test? or did you just look to see if the actuator was closing after time?
As I said before, the only way to detect this failure mode is with a vacuum test.

You attach your vacuum hand pump to the SSV actuator, pump the vacuum and then wait to see if it bleeds down or holds. Obviously you need to make sure your test equipment isn't leaking.

Also test your vacuum accumulator which is under the UIM and the VDI actuator which is near the SSV actuator on the LIM.
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Old Oct 5, 2010 | 10:40 PM
  #323  
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Originally Posted by DarkBrew
I don't have a picture of my vacuum tester but it's something like this
http://www.princessauto.com/hand-too...ke-bleeder-kit

Oh sorry didn't see the vacuum gauge in the pic at first glance
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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #324  
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I tested the actuator and it takes one minute to lose half vacuum in a static test. From the MAF data it looks like the vacuum actuator is closing almost immediately. If it leaks at all then replace it.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 10:46 PM
  #325  
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What did it cost for one of those actuators? Still undecided if I am going to check mine or not
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