Install Meet This Weekend
#52
grass hopper
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Guelph, Ontario
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#53
Once again I got fooked by work. Got up to WCS' late, we just did the front, OMG, PERFECT DROP!. No more front end wheel gap!
Hopefully putting in the rears will leave it the same or raise it up a bit if the springs in the rear are sagging. Scott has the pics, will upload them today.
Hopefully putting in the rears will leave it the same or raise it up a bit if the springs in the rear are sagging. Scott has the pics, will upload them today.
#54
Also I am not rubbing, there were a couple of messed up roads on the way back, and full turn to the left and right, no rubbing also! I think I went the right route on this. I am happy with the drop, but if I want more, I could just go with the koni shocks, dropping the car another .5 all around!
#55
I took pics before and after, and pics with a coke can for comparison to Andrew's pics.
The top polished lip of the can is what prevents it from going under the bumper, pics will show you what I mean.
In WCS' garage, a measure with a tape measure, shows 5 inches of clearance at the very back of the side skirt, front of it, and at the front of the car.
The top polished lip of the can is what prevents it from going under the bumper, pics will show you what I mean.
In WCS' garage, a measure with a tape measure, shows 5 inches of clearance at the very back of the side skirt, front of it, and at the front of the car.
#56
I am The One!
So now you guys are experts on spring installations?!
If that's the case, as soon as my springs arrive, we're going to town on it!
I should receive them in the next few weeks.
If that's the case, as soon as my springs arrive, we're going to town on it!
I should receive them in the next few weeks.
#58
The fronts are pretty easy, plus Scotty has air tools now, makes life even easier. We struggled at first, had a moment of enlightenment also, but I bet we could do it in 2 hours if not less now.
The rears are gonna be fun, lol.
Will be taking Sat off next week to head up there, here's hoping my endlinks aren't seized or fubared.
The rears are gonna be fun, lol.
Will be taking Sat off next week to head up there, here's hoping my endlinks aren't seized or fubared.
#60
I am The One!
Footman,
There were a series of things I tried. I won't know more until I find out what the ECU is/not receiving from all the sensors in the car.
Some say it could be a setting within the ECU, others say it's not getting the proper signal from a sensor. One way or another, I have to find out what the ECU is seeing.
Pros,
It's always nice to have air tools. Makes things so much easier.
I'm really excited about getting the damn springs. I'm tired of seeing the 4x4 look on the Miata.
There were a series of things I tried. I won't know more until I find out what the ECU is/not receiving from all the sensors in the car.
Some say it could be a setting within the ECU, others say it's not getting the proper signal from a sensor. One way or another, I have to find out what the ECU is seeing.
Pros,
It's always nice to have air tools. Makes things so much easier.
I'm really excited about getting the damn springs. I'm tired of seeing the 4x4 look on the Miata.
#61
Being (new) single rocks!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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^ Neo, how much of a drop will you get? Would be anxious to see how much a difference it makes because the current gap on the MX5 is so massive...
#62
Dodging those Corollas
iTrader: (2)
Neo,
You need to get an architectural diagram of all sensors that's attached to the ECU (i.e the pinouts on the connector). Then we need to go through the pinouts ONE BY ONE to determine which one has no signal. In particular, the ones pertinent to the running of the engine. You'll need a multimeter to probe the terminals for electric potential.
If you are able to get the pinout/wiring of the ECU, I would be willing to assist. However, is this the path of diagnosis you wish to head down?
You need to get an architectural diagram of all sensors that's attached to the ECU (i.e the pinouts on the connector). Then we need to go through the pinouts ONE BY ONE to determine which one has no signal. In particular, the ones pertinent to the running of the engine. You'll need a multimeter to probe the terminals for electric potential.
If you are able to get the pinout/wiring of the ECU, I would be willing to assist. However, is this the path of diagnosis you wish to head down?
#64
I am The One!
rx8thunder,
I attached a photo of what the car will look like once the springs are on. It's a fantastic drop and it won't compromise the driveability of the vehicle. Especially through winter time.
Did you get the exhaust for your wifes car yet?
Footman,
I would go down that route if I couldn't connect to the computer via laptop.
Rest assure, once I get the software/hardware on that pig, we'll know where it's getting its faulty reading. And then we can go ahead and replace that part if need be.
Thanks for the solution though.
I attached a photo of what the car will look like once the springs are on. It's a fantastic drop and it won't compromise the driveability of the vehicle. Especially through winter time.
Did you get the exhaust for your wifes car yet?
Footman,
I would go down that route if I couldn't connect to the computer via laptop.
Rest assure, once I get the software/hardware on that pig, we'll know where it's getting its faulty reading. And then we can go ahead and replace that part if need be.
Thanks for the solution though.
#65
I went with Tein H-Tech Springs, 1.0 inch drop front, 0.3 inch drop rear. I needed a drop to get rid of front gap and be conscious of speed kit, and of course my wheels. It has pretty much same stiff rates as the Eibach Prokit. WCS has pics before after, and during install.
#68
Being (new) single rocks!
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#69
I am The One!
The drop according to Mazdaspeed spec's is 1.5inch in front, 1.3inch in the rear.
That's the same drop for all the Miatas except for the PRHT. The springs for the PRHT are slightly longer to compensate for the additional weight of the hardtop. But it's practically imperceptible if you look at them.
The drop is badly needed. Just look at the before and after pics.
If you want to go lower you'll have to get Eibach's sportline springs. That'll drop 2 inches all around.
That's the same drop for all the Miatas except for the PRHT. The springs for the PRHT are slightly longer to compensate for the additional weight of the hardtop. But it's practically imperceptible if you look at them.
The drop is badly needed. Just look at the before and after pics.
If you want to go lower you'll have to get Eibach's sportline springs. That'll drop 2 inches all around.
#70
Being (new) single rocks!
Join Date: Mar 2008
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^ I noticed with Carm's car that there is more of a gap in the front, that the back, just like there is with the RX8. Can't tell from Photo's but does the MS springs make the gap front and back equal?
Perhaps we could do the a shared install -- split the cost of the compressor needed
Perhaps we could do the a shared install -- split the cost of the compressor needed
#71
Jay how can the shock affect ride height??
#72
I am The One!
01racing,
Koni's are shorter than the OEM part.
Samething happened to me when I got rid of my old shocks on the FD.
I had coilovers already in place, at the height I wanted on the stock shock. I got the Koni yellows to replace 2 blown shocks, and the ride height dropped another .5 inch.
Had to fool around with the coilovers again.
Koni's are shorter than the OEM part.
Samething happened to me when I got rid of my old shocks on the FD.
I had coilovers already in place, at the height I wanted on the stock shock. I got the Koni yellows to replace 2 blown shocks, and the ride height dropped another .5 inch.
Had to fool around with the coilovers again.