Leesha

No its the ones under my dash and seats. Some are from Rotary... The thing is for 3yrs nothing happened until they changed my battery.

Leesha

Ya right... wanna do it for me?

Neo

That's the thing. It could've been alright for 3yrs. But once you reset the entire car (such as changing the battery out), it'll be enough to nudge something.

Doing what Footman suggested is probably the best thing to do. I know you don't want to do it, but it's the only way.

schnipster

i would like to be the first to permanently offer my services...i will sit beside you in the car and put my thumb over the light in question....problem solved...and i am sorry in advance for the drool on the console.......

love always,
me...

Leesha

OMG I am so flattered~!! What a sweetheart you are. And I would reward you so truly for being so helpful.

K seriously guyz I need this **** fixed. Who wants to help me figure it out? We'll set a date??

schnipster

my head hurts..

Neo

We can set a meet for this small troubleshooting session.
It would definitely help if we have someone who's electrically savy.

Footman, you up for a small meet?

Leesha

Lmao!! Which head?


Neo: Footman is afraid of me. He won't be up...

But I think yes its a great idea. I'm off today too bad we couldn't meet like now... Neo go check out the other dyno thread.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Footman meet in richmond hill. Footman not scared of Leeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeesha!

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Also, you should print out the wiring of the instrument panel and such. I'm starting to believe that if there are no drivability issues, it could be some sort of faulty "voltage sensor" to give that light.

I don't even know how that light works.. is it activated by a relay that's held up by a nominal 12-14V source such that when the voltage drops below a threshold, the back and heel contacts connect to illuminate the low-batt light?

Need to look at the schematic people.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

GENERATOR INSPECTION

BHE011718300W02

Caution

• Do not apply direct battery positive voltage to the generator terminal D, otherwise it could cause damage to the internal parts (power transistor) of the generator.

Generator warning light

1. Verify that the battery is fully charged.

2. Verify that the drive belt deflection/tension is within the specification. (See DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION/TENSION INSPECTION.)

3. With the ignition switch at ON, verify that the generator warning light illuminates.

• If it does not illuminate, inspect the generator warning light and the wiring harness.

– If the generator warning light and the wiring harness are normal, inspect the PCM.

4. Verify that the generator warning light turns off after the engine is started.

• If it does not turn off, check if any one of the following DTCs in the on-board diagnostic system are displayed: P0112, P0113, P2502, P2503, P2504. (See DTC TABLE.)

Generator
Voltage

1. Verify that the battery is fully charged.

2. Verify that the drive belt deflection/tension is within the specification. (See DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION/TENSION INSPECTION.)

3. Turn off all electrical loads.

4. Start the engine and verify that the generator rotates smoothly without any noise while the engine is running.

5. Measure the voltage at each terminal using a tester.

Standard specification

Terminal



IG-ON (V)



Idle (V) [20°C {68 °F}]

B

B+

13.0-15.0
P

Approx. 1.0 or less

Approx. 3.0-8.0
D

Approx. 0

*

* : Turn the following electrical loads on and verify that the voltage reading increases.

• Headlights
• Blower motor
• Rear window defroster

Current

1. Verify that the battery is fully charged.

2. Verify that the drive belt deflection/tension is within the specification. (See DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION/TENSION INSPECTION.)

3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

4. Connect a tester capable of reading 120 A or above between generator terminal B and the wiring harness.

5. Connect the negative battery cable.

6. Turn off all electrical loads.

7. Start the engine.

8. Increase engine speed from 2,000-2,500 rpm.

9. Turn the following electrical loads on and verify that the current reading increases.

• Headlights
• Blower motor
• Rear window defroster

Note

• Current required for generating power varies with electrical loads applied.

Reference value

Current possible for power generation (differs according to load)

[Conditions] ambient temperature 20°C {68 °F}, voltage 13.0-15.0 V, engine warm

Engine speed (rpm)



Terminal B current (A)

1,000

0*-70
2,000

0*-97

* : The lower limit must be more than 0 A.

Mazurfer

^................guess this issue is really going to take some drive time. Think I would start unplugging some of the aftermarket wiring(LEDs) under the seat and stuff and then see what happens.
I'm curious why it only appears to happen at speed though??????
I think you guys are on the right track in that it's something that is dragging down the voltage under the preset limit for a short time. Whether it's a high resistance path for a short amount of time or what.....who knows?
Not knowing what it looks like under those seats in terms of LED's(or boards), it's still hard for me to imagine that it could be a bad socket or board. I like the frayed wire idea in that area though. Depending on how wired, moving the seat could have compromised the insulation(just an idea).
Think it's just going to involve visual checks, possible ohm meter checks, and perhaps good ole fashion elimination techniques.

Good news is................not affecting the car in any other way right now!

Footman

iTrader: (2)

More findings.. the low-batt LED is lit by a microcomputer and not by an electromechanical means like a relay. If the sensor in the microcomputer is bad then there is no solution to this problem but to replace the microcomputer in the instrument cluster.

We can test what's going on with the voltage by running a long meter lead from the battery terminals back into the car passenger seat, monitor the meter as we go for a drive.

The moment the light comes on the instrument panel, we can look at the meter to see what the voltage is.

A) if the voltage is indeed dropping, then you have a generator/battery issue

B) if the voltage is not dropping, then you have a wiring/high resistance/ bad sensor issue.

Leesha

Good idea...its a nice day come and meet me pleaseeeee.

Ok wanna do it today? Come to Stoney Creek... Or I'll meet you out this way and we can maybe take a drive to the falls and then I'll show you what I mean. You in?

Neo

I think we would have to do this closer to the weekend. I'm going to be running around with my head chopped off for the next few days trying to find a place to live.
I've got a booking tonight for a condo, and another one tomorrow night. I would say we can meet during the day tomorrow, but I've got a favor I've got to do for my cousin.
The earliest I could make it would be Fri. during the day, if not the weekend. Preferably Sun.

Can you guys hold out till then?

Leesha

During the day I can't. Night yes... Monday before 4pm I'm free and Wed all day. Let me know if this works for you guys.

Neo

I guess it'll have to be Wed. then.

Footman, you down with that?

Footman

iTrader: (2)

I cannot do anything on weekdays, unless it's evening and in Richmond Hill area.

It would be helpful if someone has a portable variable voltage generator. I have one at work, but I cannot take that home as that is stealing.

dodgingwrenches

Wow Chris, I didn't know you were so whipped

Leesha

Yes I've him already...

Footman do you want me to come to you then? Can we borrow the thingy??

Neo

Good old Sophia to the rescue! lol

It's best if we meet somewhere in the GTA. Of course, closer to Footman would be ideal.
I wonder if we would be able to meet him at his work. This way he's not "stealing" the "thingy" lol

Leesha

Are you guys mad... GTA G20...no way do I want to be anywhere near there.

Now that being said. I need to drive on the highway when it is not busy so that I can take the car upto 130 and show you guys what I mean. So lets plan this right.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Richmond Hill is not anywhere near Toronto G20.

Mazurfer

Footman...........Notice how she is always saying..........gotta get it up to 130km or so, so she can show you what's happenning? That bugs the crap outta me..........it makes me think it might actually be heat related and/or maybe it's a slight crazy belt slip issue(really doubt this one)? Just keep those in mind.....that's all. Just trying to help from afar, so you don't miss anything.

Leesha...............does it ever happen when you are not a any real speed but driving shall we say....normal speed?

This really is perplexing......might want to jiggle or look at the wires coming into the PCM from the alternator. Oh.........and really check the ground!!!!!!! Maybe it's a dirty ground connection?

Leesha

Ok I don't know how to do any of that...lol... Yes most of the time it is when I'm on the highway and not at low speeds. My norm is 130ish so I'm not sure if that makes a difference. Oh and the other day I heard like a spinning squeeking kind of sound when I got home from a long drive. Maybe the belt??

Footman are you in or out... pick a day since your the one who's doing all the work.