flooded
#26
grass hopper
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Guelph, Ontario
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
greg
#27
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ajax, Ontario
Posts: 2,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know with pistons you are suppose to start in first, the lowest gear is supposed to make it easier to start. Yes very hard on the engine, and trans, but what cha gonna do. I'm use to my old car. If I have to ever do it again (hope not) I will try second. It's mainly about quick clutch in and out with gas on at the right time. Hate doing it to any car, it feels so hard on it.
#28
Registered
and cranking the engine over with the starter differs how? the fact is you need to get the engine started. im sure flooding it isnt good for the engines life for this reason, but the apex seals aren't doing anyone any good if the motors running so...priorities, i guess.
Greg
Greg
Is this all erroneous? Should flooded engines be re-started without any precautions, as you seem to imply?
#29
Zoom Zoom....
Pete.
You are technically right, but there is a progression in attempting to repair a flooded engine before adding oil.
The oil is not so much to lubricate, but to help seal the rotor seals on an engine that is probably marginal for replacement due to carbon deposits.
First procedure for starting a flooded engine should be the one that's in the Owner's Manual: Gas pedal to the floor: Crank for 10 secs. Wait for 10 secs, Crank for another 10.
After that, if the car doesn't start, then the procedure to follow is given in this Mazda TSB: http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf
What the TSB says is to pull the spark plugs, pull the e-shaft sensor, and crank to remove fuel from the rotors. If that fails, then add some oil to improve compression.
You are technically right, but there is a progression in attempting to repair a flooded engine before adding oil.
The oil is not so much to lubricate, but to help seal the rotor seals on an engine that is probably marginal for replacement due to carbon deposits.
First procedure for starting a flooded engine should be the one that's in the Owner's Manual: Gas pedal to the floor: Crank for 10 secs. Wait for 10 secs, Crank for another 10.
After that, if the car doesn't start, then the procedure to follow is given in this Mazda TSB: http://www.finishlineperformance.com...5-08-1883f.pdf
What the TSB says is to pull the spark plugs, pull the e-shaft sensor, and crank to remove fuel from the rotors. If that fails, then add some oil to improve compression.
#30
Most of the flooded 8's we get in our shop are because of 2 reasons: Battery is worn and the cold makes the car crank slowly, slow cranking is a sure way to flood. 2. Plugs were not in good shape prior and they were carboned/oil fouled and again makes it hard for them to fire when cold. I have been with Mazda going on 21 years, I have yet to see a blown up rotary from natural causes.
#31
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ajax, Ontario
Posts: 2,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Most of the flooded 8's we get in our shop are because of 2 reasons: Battery is worn and the cold makes the car crank slowly, slow cranking is a sure way to flood. 2. Plugs were not in good shape prior and they were carboned/oil fouled and again makes it hard for them to fire when cold. I have been with Mazda going on 21 years, I have yet to see a blown up rotary from natural causes.
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shoot eh, alot of flooded cars. Haven't had any problems with my 8 yet (except the time it takes to start the car in the cold). My Mazda dealership told me to turn on the power for about 1 min before you start the car, and also after you turn it off. Ive been doing it, seems to help with the starting. Anyone else do this? And does it help ?
#33
Zoom Zoom....
^ Maybe if our engines were Diesel's with glow-plugs....
I honestly would like to hear the rationale for using / wasting one min of battery power before starting the engine.
I honestly would like to hear the rationale for using / wasting one min of battery power before starting the engine.
#34
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea I was wondering that too, then again the battery recharges when you drive so its not really wasting it lol.
But it's been helping for cold weather, especially that my car is parked in my garage for 2-3 days before I use it.
But it's been helping for cold weather, especially that my car is parked in my garage for 2-3 days before I use it.
#35
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What year is your car? And how many seconds is it taking for it to start? Is it just taking a couple of seconds or are we talking 7-10 secs? If it's the latter, I had that issue and new starter resolved it.
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's an '04 GT. Ive only driven it in the cold, Ive had the car since end october so I dunno yet if its the starter or not. It takes about 2-3 seconds, depending the the temperature outside.
#37
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine's an '04 as well. With the new starter, it fires up right away but it's not as cold in T.O. and my car is in my garage - it's not a heated garage but it's generally not quite as cold as outside. The starter might be something you want to look into. Starter's not cheap though so you might was to look at the battery first to see if that helps. I'd take it to the dealer, tell them the symptoms and let them suggest which route to go. If it's the starter, I'd consider ordering from the States (though the exchange sucks now).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Danield97
Series I Trouble Shooting
10
10-10-2015 05:58 PM