Hi guys, opinions appreciated on this...

Both my daytime running lights are out on my '05, dealer wanted $157 (!!!) to replace 'em including $66 for the bulbs, I told 'em to forget it. Only the right DRL bulb works on highbeam.

Do you guys think it's the module described here or just the bulbs? Plus, how long did it take you guys to replace it??

...oh, and God bless you all

 

Do the bulb first, prob just burnt out.

 

I have a set of brand new Hoen Xenonmatch Plus bulbs I can sell to you.

To keep things short, I'll just say that That ******* guy Millchan did not pick his up, so I am now sitting on unmoving assets

It's experiences like these that jade and sour my opinion on people. Sanguine was good and trustworthy. But that other dood...

If you're interested, pm me. www.hoen.com

 

I finally got around to removing the DRL module from behind the glove box. My mechanic friend said to check the solder joints because a common problem is cold solder joints. I resoldered some of the (bigger) solder joints, and connector points, but left the SMD (surface mounted devices) devices alone because they are so small.

After reinstalling the DRL module, I still have the same problem. The driver side DRL comes on at full power, and the passenger side is off. On occasion, the DRLs will operate normally.

Does anybody have the schematics to this module? It would help troubleshoot it. Or if anybody can tell me which relay to replace? There are 4 relays on this board.

There was also another thread speculating that the problem is the parking brake relay which is mounted in the centre console. Is there any validity to this theory?

 

The problem is not cold solder joint. The DRL module is getting fried because of excess heat.

 

Yes I know the module is being fried. I'm trying to figure out which component on the module is being fried so I can repair it.

 

I've noticed my drl's not working for about 1-2 weeks now, headlights/high beams are working fine.
Have to call dealership and see what's up?.....keep ya posted.

 

There's going to be a lot of work involved. You're going to have to look at each relay. Find it's configuration and test the pin outs on the back of the PCB (without having to desolder).

For example, looking at the top right relay.. NAIS ACV33012. If you do a google search, you'll get this: http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/748...-acv33012.html

A Panasonic relay. You have to find the line which describes its configuration, in this case, it is a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw).

This means the configuration has 5 pins. If you look at the back of the PCB, you should see 5 lead out traces.

I haven't seen the back of the PCB, but this is the moment where this method stops. If it's those multilayer PCBs where one of the pins never make it to the underside of the PCB, then you're screwed because you'll never have access to the pin. However, if all of the pins are accessible from the back then you're game.

An SPST relay only has 5 contacts. 2 of them are COIL. The other 3 are your relay contacts FRONT, BACK, HEEL. In it's normally open state (denergized), the relay will make contact between the BACK and HEEL. When energy is applied to the COIL, then FRONT and HEEL make contact.

You will need a 12VDC source (you can make one by putting TWO 4 x AA battery packs in series) If you can find the configuration pin out, relative to the orientation of the relay as it is mounted, then you're in luck. You can connect the 12VDC source to the coils, and then take a multimeter and use it in "CONTINUITY" mode between FRONT and HEEL and see if it beeps after you've applied the source. If that happens, then that relay is "OKAY". You have to do this for each relay and figure out.

If you don't have or could not find the relay pin out configuration relative to the orientation of the relay, then you're going to have to do some hunting. If there are only 5 pins, you have only 20 possible combinations to try and locate the "COIL contacts". Once you've located the COIL contacts, it's not hard to figure out what's FRONT, BACK, and HEEL with the remaining 3 (remember that the BACK and HEEL are connected when there is no power, so the one you find continuity between are BACK and HEEL. The only way to differentiate between which contact is BACK and which contact is HEEL, you'll only find out once you apply power and the relay is working. It's the HEEL that pivots and moves between FRONT and BACK.

 

Top two relays:

Panasonic ACV33012:
SPST-NO (Single Throw Single Pole, Normally Open) 12VDC
5-pins.


I couldn't read the other 2 relays clearly, you'll need a super macro shot.

 

Once you find the relay that's wrong, I do not recommend that you buy the same one and replace it. Instead, find a heavier duty one. You'll have to build a separate box to hold the new relay. Solder WIRES from the old PCB and into this box. I don't recommend using PCB mount relays. Use a socket mount heavy duty one (much larger in size, so you'll have to figure out how to stash it).

I recommend the product line from Potter & Brumfield.

P&B, KUP series, KRA, KHA, KRP...

 

Not sure if this will help....but my DRL module "went" and took out both Highbeams. The series of events was.....turned on highbeams..high beams worked for about 3 seconds then went out. After that the highbeams and DRL were not functioning. Dealership ordered the DRL module and 2 new zenon headlights "just in case". When I picked up the car they had to replace the DRL and the headlights....said the DRL blew and sent a surge to the headlights and took out the highbeams....low beams were still functioning when I took it in.
Again not sure if this helps your situation but more information can't hurt.