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Old 01-21-2009, 12:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SlowLude
Hey Early30s! How's it going? It's been awhile eh... we'll have to think of a spring get together. What's your code reader thingy?
Hey Slowlude! Its nothing special, just an OBD2 that was on super cheap at Canadian Tire.. I've wanted one for years just so i had one up on the dealer.. never quite trusted them on some occasions! Especially now, since i, for the FIRST TIME, will hit a 3 years BEFORE 60k.. its a miracle!!! I'm just happy it reads the 8 too.. was worried it wouldnt for some reason.. ha ha.

Its pretty cool, reads so fast and now if i get an engine light i know why before i bring it in.. also logs speed and rpm the warning came at, good thing i was always truthful when it ever happened, in any car..
Our Pathfinder needed an O2 sensor, told me that he was driving at 31MPH and 2150RPM when it failed.. cool!

Better than nothing anyway!!
Hope baby is doing well.. first words, zoom zoom?
Old 01-24-2009, 08:49 PM
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Just today i was accelerating and once i hit 7000rpm it basically stopped revving and if i held down the accelerator it would slowly go to 8000rpm then stop. That was followed by a flashing CEL for 10 to 15 seconds. I then let it sit for a couple hours and took it out for a drive, same thing when hitting 7000ish rpm. The bottom end feels fine(3000 to 6000) but then it just dies out.

I should mention that it flooded this morning because my damn roommates unplugged my car(still got it started just had to do the de flood procedure). This is the 3rd time that it has flooded this winter.

I did have the sparkplugs changed out about 10000km ago but i guess after flooding 3 times they are probably done for. Also i imagine the Cat is not in good condition anymore.

What do you guys think?(dont have a code reader but i am guessing it is rotor misfire.) Oh ya after i took out for the second drive and pushed it the light came on again and this time it stayed on.

I really cant afford any costly repair procedures because i am moving to McKenzie Towne next weekend )(thats a plus at least)
Old 01-24-2009, 09:51 PM
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could be: spark plugs, could also be cat, carbon build up on intake valves, engine wasn't warmed up.

Get anyone with an AP to read the codes (AP doesn't need to be installed to read codes).

Is the light blinking? If it's just solid that means nothing critical is broken, but if it's blinking that's a sign of trouble.

PS anyone up for a Meet in May? I should be in town for a week or so, and I might be passing by with the GTI (need to haul lots of stuff =( ) late march/early april =)
Old 01-24-2009, 10:06 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by SpecialBlend
Just today i was accelerating and once i hit 7000rpm it basically stopped revving and if i held down the accelerator it would slowly go to 8000rpm then stop. That was followed by a flashing CEL for 10 to 15 seconds. I then let it sit for a couple hours and took it out for a drive, same thing when hitting 7000ish rpm. The bottom end feels fine(3000 to 6000) but then it just dies out.
Sounds similar to what I had this earlier in the month...P2070 was my code. Had huge hesitation (feels like when hit fuel cutoff) at 7000RPM because the the valve that opens up at 7250 is gummed up. You can search the code for more info and see if it matches your problems. I fixed it by using Redline SI-1 cleaner, and very hard driving. It went away after 3-4 days of hard driving with Redline SI-1 in the tank.
Old 01-25-2009, 02:22 AM
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I had P2070 before but a can of BG44K fixed it. Mine wasnt like hitting fuel cutoff, it was like what specialblend stated, rpm moved up slowly from 7000 with a flashing CEL. just get a scangauge II that tells you everything, and its cheap.
BTW, i am down for the meet during spring. but whatever a ******* red vehicle was hit my rear bumper. basically scratched only a little on the bumper paint but my CF plate backing is totally gone now. oh wait, it happened when it was parked.
Slowlude, what i meant by power mods were just those little modifications like intake, flywheel, clutch, midpipe or whatever, cuz i never felt any difference after. i will be really interested in seeing a Turbo or SC rx8 in person lol.
Old 01-25-2009, 11:52 AM
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Really a can of cleaner fixed it in both of your cases? Thats weird everywhere else on the forum says that it was usually plugs, cat or coils. What did the code that you guys get stand for(rotor misifre?)
Old 01-25-2009, 03:05 PM
  #32  
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I got P0302 misfire a few times during my P2070.
Old 01-25-2009, 03:15 PM
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I just got the codes checked at Auto Value on 32nd ave NE and it was the P0302 cycliner 2 misfire code. The tech said that was the only one though. Weird.
Old 01-25-2009, 06:01 PM
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^spark plugs or coils. Might be carbon build up, but very unlikely.
Old 01-25-2009, 06:17 PM
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Ya that is what i am thinking....plus when i get it back from the dealer i am going to put a can of seafoam or BG44K through it. I really hope they replace the cat because i have a bad feeling that it is done for. My car absolutly smells of gasoline when i start it up.....not a slight smell.....i can smell it from like 50 feet away, lol.
Old 01-26-2009, 12:15 AM
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I can smell it too but i am not worried about the cat. reason why BG44K fixed mightbe that my spark plugs were replaced not long ago before the SSV stuck thing. you had a misfire which most likely the spark plugs or coils.
Old 01-26-2009, 12:32 PM
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Seafoam/BG44K ftw! I'd also toss in half a bottle of redline SI-1 into your tank, and then use 2oz every tank thereafter to help prevent carbon from building. It's like $8 from a speed shop, if you can find it at CT it's $10-11 per bottle.
Old 01-26-2009, 01:22 PM
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I have doubts about those injector cleaners. I use them too, but often wonder if they do anything.
Old 01-26-2009, 09:28 PM
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Mazda says that the cat is fine. Said that two of my coils are bad and the other two are not in good condition. Getting that **** done tomorrow. When i got it back from the dealership the guy said that the tech said that it was running better however it still didn;t have have power past 7000 and would only go to 8000, no further. Then i heard the sound of a muted exhaust and it seemed like it was still missing.(no CEL or flashing CEL when i was pushing it though)

Oh ya and they told me that the upgraded starter was 260 plus a hour installation and that was only covered under bumper to bumper warranty, booooooo.

Lastly they said that there was a new PCM flash installed, has anyone else heard about this new flash......he said that it fixed a bunch of stuff. I will see if i can get the number for you guys tomorrow when i am there.
Old 01-26-2009, 10:25 PM
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Cool, any idea when the flash was released?
Old 01-26-2009, 11:05 PM
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I will find out tomorrow the exact details of it and see if they can get me a printout.

I will post it up tomorrow.
Old 01-27-2009, 01:07 AM
  #42  
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The last flash that I knew of is the one released in Dec 2007/Jan 2008 for the 2006+ USDM (federal emissions standard). It was someting like N5MZ or something like that in the filename.
Old 01-27-2009, 07:59 PM
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Mostly bad new today i am afraid. I will start with the least bad news. The senior service tech has no idea what the flash fixed just that it said to update it. I should be able to find out from my work order in my car(the number anyways).

Now the bad news. Service rep calls me up and says "It is all fixed and you can come pick it up, the service mechanic took it out for a test run from sunridge mazda to the airport and said that it was good in high RPM's"

Went to pick it up and took it for a spin, once it was warm i gunned it in third gear on the deerfoot, pulled strong until 6700 or so and then felt a big power loss which was followed by a jerk it power at 7000 something(only for a fraction of a second though). If i kept holding the accelerator down it would SLOWLY climb up to redline(we are talking like 10 seconds from 7500ish to 9000rpm in third gear). Oh and when i was stopped at the lights i was reving it in neutral and when it hit 7000 i could see it pause for a fraction of a second and then continue(this was followed by flashing CEL).

Took it back to the dealer and had a talk with the lead service tech, he pulled the code and it was the misfire code again. Next i let the lead service tech take it out for a drive with me in it and he definitely noticed the power loss(he only had it in first gear and it is alot harder to notice it in that gear because it is over so soon). His next suggestion was to get a compression check because seeing that much power loss and the hard starts that i have every time he thought that could be it.

Once i was done talking to him and ready to leave my car BARELY started(at least 10 seconds of cranking, and it was 100% warm because we just took it out for a 15 min drive after my 30 min drive).

Dunno what to do guys, do i try seafoam procedure first or just get them to check the damn compression and be done with it?(dont really have alot of time considering i am moving Saturday and work all day from now until them).
Old 01-27-2009, 08:10 PM
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Forgot to mention in the above that all four coils were replace. Oh and that after i was done at the dealership i took it out for a good 30 min drive and could not get the CEL to come back on

This is what it says on my work order(for the pcm reflash)

"F0010XFX Powertain Control Module (PCM)
Re-Flashing
99 W
FC: 62 Part#: Count:"

Thats all that it says....there is no PCM date or Code name or anything.

Do you guys think that i will be able to get some of the money back for the 4 coils that they replace considering that they did absolutely nothing to fix my issue?(total bill on that was 535 +tax )

Thanks,

Last edited by SpecialBlend; 01-27-2009 at 08:18 PM.
Old 01-27-2009, 08:57 PM
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Ouch ... sorry to hear. I doubt you will get anything back for the coils but doesn't hurt to argue. At least argue for a free compression check and/or spark plugs. I wish I saw your post earlier because replacing the coils is a super easy DIY.

On another note: The upgraded starter is 260Cdn? That's cheaper than Mazmart 360 USD = 1232Cdn with the crappy exchange

Last edited by BlueFrenzy; 01-27-2009 at 08:59 PM.
Old 01-27-2009, 09:21 PM
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Ya thats not to bad....it says on my work order that it is 395(that would be installed though) 1 hour labour.

Is anybody good with the seafoam procedure?

Does anyone have some time to help me if i decide to go that route?(all my roomates that would normally help me have moved out)
Old 01-27-2009, 10:23 PM
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Yeah, I'm sorry to hear about this too. Reminds me of how much trouble there is to a car like this. All the forum reading I've done in regards to power loss are because of the coils. Compression loss == new engine? Good luck with all this.
Old 01-28-2009, 12:43 AM
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^events like that make me scared about the longevity of the car...although I have over 70k km and have had 0 engine or transmission issues.

as far as the seafoam procedure, it's pretty easy, but it requires two people to do...and a nice open for the exhaust fumes to leave.

But you should be able to get this done at the dealership for free...you are still under the 8yr/160 k km warranty...and take it to north hill...I had much better service there than at sunridge.

funny enough sunridge still attempts to call me to book service appointments and even mails out reminders to my house...when I'm 1400km away o_o;
Old 01-28-2009, 01:09 AM
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^I was wondering if that would be covered under warranty?

Anyways, i have started a new thread under the problems and issues section with a video of my issue to see if i can get some more responses.

Link to the video is as follows:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d40CMn9XjF0
Old 01-28-2009, 11:04 AM
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Sunridge mazda is doing a free compression test for me tomorrow . Not sure what i want to come from the results at this point, at least it will give me a more definitive direction as to what to do next.


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