Just scheduled a service appt. My '04 is up to 80K (kms). Service dept told me to consider having a brake flush done this time. It's around $100 or so. Anyone else have this done yet? Is it necessary? If not necessary, is it still a good thing to do? Thx for your help.

 

I did it at 50K, I think I would definetly do it, 80K is a really long time. If your getting it done, look at getting stainles steel lines put on at the same time. Same labor, looking at a 100 for the lines, huge difference in pedal feel.

 

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According to my owner's manual (Schedule 2), the brake fluid is to be replaced every 24 months / 48,000 km (30,000 miles).

This should (obviously) include changing the fluid in the clutch line & slave cylinder.


Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and has an additive package like engine oil that brakes (Freudian slip) down over time.

Use DOT 3 or 4 fluids (DOT 4 has a higher temp range). Do not use DOT 5 fluid - it is silicone based and cannot be mixed with DOT 3 or 4.

 

Brake fluid is actually hydrophilic. I used to watch Bill Nye Science Guy....

 

Thanks for all the responses ... even tho some of the stuff is completely over my head.

I should be able to assume (but I won't) then that my 48K servicing at the dealership (which cost in the neighbourhood of $230), this would have been done. Strange that it would then be suggested at 80K as well. I'll check when I take in tomorrow to ensure that it would've been done at 48K. I still have the invoice.

 

hydrophilic
<chemistry> Readily absorbing moisture,

hygroscopic,
having strongly polar groups that readily interact with water.


C'est la même chose, n'est pas?

 

100 bucks for that is pretty good price. I would still be inclined to DIY.

 

Basically the only things I do myself is change the tires/wheels out and top up oil and windshield washer fluid. I'd love to know how to do more than that but don't want to screw up. The peace of mind I get from having the professionals do everything else is generally worth the price they charge.

 

Ya but what's the fun in that?? Learn about your car man, makes it that much more satisfying when it's all done. Brake ez btw. Take off each line one by one drain da old crap out, pump the brakes. Put back together fill her up with new fluid, then just bleed each line. Done!! Takes some time, but not to hard.

 

Come out to one of the mod meets next year.. we'll be more then happy to show you how to do whatever ya want... and you can learn how to void warranties like the rest of us

 

^^+1

 

flushing the brake fluid is very easy but does take a while.....remove wheel, loosen bleed screw, pump brakes then top up fluid with new fluid as you pump the old stuff out....100 buck seems more then fair for that service.

 

I think we were charging $170 installed for Russel Stainless Braided brake lines and another $100 for Motul DOT 5 race brake fluid (which is rediculous money) to do the fluid flush.

Remember your ABS unit holds some fluid and will need to have the air bled out of it if you do a proper fluid flush!

 

Oops, I just realized RX-8's dont have bleeder screws on their ABS unit.....its RX-7's ABS unit that have the bleeders.

 

Get a vacuum bleeder - costs less than 20 bucks and makes bleeding the brakes too easy.

Put nipple on bleed screw at the caliber; loosen bleed screw... and pump away until you see new fluid starting to bleed out - and add fluid as you go. I can do all 4 of my wheels in under 20 minutes.

 

Hey, I've got an idea ... I'm just going to take it to the dealership I'm just not cut out for this kind of work. Maybe someday when I'm retired and have the time but not right now when I have too many other hobbies. Seriously though, thanks for the prompting ... just not my thing. I might be tempted to try to fix a few rattles myself though That'll be another thread of course.

 

How do you guys remove all the old fluid from the reservoir? When I did it I just bled the reservoir down to almost empty then added the new fluid. I found the old fluid actually separated and floated on top so I used a few paper towels to soak it up and out.

I figure there must be an easier way though.

 

Like I said, don't just drain via the bleeding screw/nipple, take the brake line off completely and let them all drain and press the brake will get everything out. Then put back together, refill and bleed and refill as required until no more tinny bubbles. U can also use a baster that you would use for a turkey dinner and get a bunch out that way as well.

 

You're just bleeding the system dry then putting the new stuff through? I don't know about that technique... How do you know you've got rid of all the air bubbles? They can get stuck around the clutch or who knows where else.

I thought of a turkey baster but I didn't have one handy. Maybe for next time.

Also, for a laugh, google "turkey baster" and see what comes up.

 

YES you are bleeding the system dry, getting rid of the old and putting in the new. Doesn't that sound more of a clean way to do it!! lol. That is what bleeding is for to get rid of the bubbles and you keep topping it up. By the time you bleed all four she will be good to go. Do it anyway you like. I've done it this way before and will continue to do so. Also a good time to do it, is if you have to replace calipers.

Ya lol..**** WHAT!!

 

I see this is an old thread. If you have not used a Motive Power Bleeder you are just kicking yourself in the but. At around 50$ it will pay for itself the first time you use it and continue to be valuable for the length of ownership of the vehicle.

It is super simple ANYONE could use it. If you can screw and unscrew a cap, pump an airpump and take of and put back wheels on your car you are set! From my experience vacuum bleeders just don't work and using the Motive procured me MUCH better pedal feel than the conventional method.

 

which version of cap do we get if we purchase the Motive Power Bleeder for the 8?

 

Yup, brake fluid is hydrophilic (absorbs water) over time.

My 2005 owner’s manual says to flush the fluid every 24 months or 48k miles.

I’m only at 20k miles, but my vehicle is now 48+ months old from build date.

Time for a change? (I'm soon planning new rotors, pads and speedbleeder install anyway).