5w20 or 30
#26
Grand Chancellor
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
#28
Firstly yours a turbo I am presuming from your handle. So different oil requirements.
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
#30
The point I am trying to make is 5w20 is too thin for our engines and Mazda would have asked us to use thicker oil if it was not for those retarted fuel economy regulations.
If you think its smart to use oil that is as thin as water.. enjoy!
#31
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The car automatically draws motor oil and injects it in the combustion chambers.
To lube the seals I believe, when it burns.
Synthetic doesn't "burn" like "dino" oil does.
I will agree that a synthetic oil has better lube properties then "dino" oil but then it wouldn't be good unless you went with a after market OMP adapter.
Basically, it draws premix from another source(usually the windshield fluid bottle is used), and disabling the factory OMP from drawing oil from the synthetic oil that you are using in the oil pan
and that this point I will let Turborx8 explain into detail of what the benfits are because he installed one.
http://www.turborx8.ca/
you can see what he did=)
Edit: making it easier for you Leesha
The point of this adapter, is to stop using engine oil to lubricate the apex seals in your rotary engine. This is a good thing because:
1. Your engine will no longer burn oil from the engine
2. Your seals can be given fresh oil that isn’t dirty
3. You can feed your seals 2 stroke oil, which is meant to be burned.
4. If you’re a firm believer that you can’t use synthetic oil because it’s bad for the seals, using synthetic oil will no longer an issue because your motor oil isn’t being used for seal lubrication!
This is where I ordered mine from.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
Now I need to figure out what type of resevoir I can use to hold the 2stroke oil. Some people use the windshield washer fluid resevoir but I plan to drive my car thru the winter so that won’t work.
Last edited by TurboEight; 12-03-2007 at 10:29 PM.
#32
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Firstly yours a turbo I am presuming from your handle. So different oil requirements.
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
I 'll agree that using a 0W or 5W will be better for cold starts.
That's about it.
I still think that a xW20 is still to thin in operating temps of a renny.
TURBO or NOT..
#33
Grand Chancellor
Quote:
Originally Posted by delhi View Post
Firstly yours a turbo I am presuming from your handle. So different oil requirements.
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
Originally Posted by delhi View Post
Firstly yours a turbo I am presuming from your handle. So different oil requirements.
Secondly, in cold climate its best to stay with 0W 0r 5W for better cold temp engine operation.
Thirdly, will you give me a new 13b engine if it sputters and dies using 10w30?
Thought so...
#34
Registered User
What brand canola oil should I use??
#35
I don't believe it's very good for the renny, to run synthetic with out a OMP adapter.
The car automatically draws motor oil and injects it in the combustion chambers.
To lube the seals I believe, when it burns.
Synthetic doesn't "burn" like "dino" oil does.
I will agree that a synthetic oil has better lube properties then "dino" oil but then it wouldn't be good unless you went with a after market OMP adapter.
Basically, it draws premix from another source(usually the windshield fluid bottle is used), and disabling the factory OMP from drawing oil from the synthetic oil that you are using in the oil pan
and that this point I will let Turborx8 explain into detail of what the benfits are because he installed one.
http://www.turborx8.ca/
you can see what he did=)
Edit: making it easier for you Leesha
The point of this adapter, is to stop using engine oil to lubricate the apex seals in your rotary engine. This is a good thing because:
1. Your engine will no longer burn oil from the engine
2. Your seals can be given fresh oil that isn’t dirty
3. You can feed your seals 2 stroke oil, which is meant to be burned.
4. If you’re a firm believer that you can’t use synthetic oil because it’s bad for the seals, using synthetic oil will no longer an issue because your motor oil isn’t being used for seal lubrication!
This is where I ordered mine from.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
Now I need to figure out what type of resevoir I can use to hold the 2stroke oil. Some people use the windshield washer fluid resevoir but I plan to drive my car thru the winter so that won’t work.
The car automatically draws motor oil and injects it in the combustion chambers.
To lube the seals I believe, when it burns.
Synthetic doesn't "burn" like "dino" oil does.
I will agree that a synthetic oil has better lube properties then "dino" oil but then it wouldn't be good unless you went with a after market OMP adapter.
Basically, it draws premix from another source(usually the windshield fluid bottle is used), and disabling the factory OMP from drawing oil from the synthetic oil that you are using in the oil pan
and that this point I will let Turborx8 explain into detail of what the benfits are because he installed one.
http://www.turborx8.ca/
you can see what he did=)
Edit: making it easier for you Leesha
The point of this adapter, is to stop using engine oil to lubricate the apex seals in your rotary engine. This is a good thing because:
1. Your engine will no longer burn oil from the engine
2. Your seals can be given fresh oil that isn’t dirty
3. You can feed your seals 2 stroke oil, which is meant to be burned.
4. If you’re a firm believer that you can’t use synthetic oil because it’s bad for the seals, using synthetic oil will no longer an issue because your motor oil isn’t being used for seal lubrication!
This is where I ordered mine from.
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
Now I need to figure out what type of resevoir I can use to hold the 2stroke oil. Some people use the windshield washer fluid resevoir but I plan to drive my car thru the winter so that won’t work.
Thanks for the info...How much would it cost to do the entire thing??
#37
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I switched to 5W-30 (dino) for a two reasons
1. only in North America does Mazda recommend 5W-20, the rest of the world gets 5W-30 +
2. There is good evidence that the only reason 5W-20 is recommended is silly federal fuel efficiency regulations.
What I deducted from these two points is that the use of 5W-20 oil results in unnecessary risk for MY car. I see no benefits, and I see no reason why 5W-30 would damage an engine.
1. only in North America does Mazda recommend 5W-20, the rest of the world gets 5W-30 +
2. There is good evidence that the only reason 5W-20 is recommended is silly federal fuel efficiency regulations.
What I deducted from these two points is that the use of 5W-20 oil results in unnecessary risk for MY car. I see no benefits, and I see no reason why 5W-30 would damage an engine.
#40
First off, I highly doubt the "syntec" formulation is "synthetic" in traditional terms. It's merely a marketing term. It's more an indicator of performance level or standard for the oil, as opposed to a chemical formulation. It was, in fact, Castrol's court victory against Mobil (mid-1990's?) that paved the way for ANY formula of motor oil to be branded "synthetic" so long as it is highly refined enough and performs well enough. The Syntec is most likely a blend of highly refined mineral oils (probably group II+ and group III), with a proprietary additive package (thus, they can call the oil "synthetic" and charge any price the market is willing to sustain...)
I'm not familiar with all the tech details of the Ford specification for 5W20 oils, but let me reiterate that the most important specs to look for on the label are simply this: API Service SL and ILSAC GF-3. These are MANDATORY specs. Any oil with these specs will be good oils to use.
The Ford spec is based on measurements of how well the oil holds up and protects against wear over a long duration. IIRC, it was in excess of 150K (simulated/tested) miles. Oils with this spec, in addition to the API service SL and ILSAC GF-3 ratings, will be your best bet.
I'm not familiar with all the tech details of the Ford specification for 5W20 oils, but let me reiterate that the most important specs to look for on the label are simply this: API Service SL and ILSAC GF-3. These are MANDATORY specs. Any oil with these specs will be good oils to use.
The Ford spec is based on measurements of how well the oil holds up and protects against wear over a long duration. IIRC, it was in excess of 150K (simulated/tested) miles. Oils with this spec, in addition to the API service SL and ILSAC GF-3 ratings, will be your best bet.
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Has Mazda USA always recommended 5W-20 or is this a more recent change? If always, and based on the information I'm reading in this thread warning against 5W-20, I'm wondering if there might be a link to the engine problems that 04-06 models were recalled for.
#44
When it gets warmer, I plan to use: Royal Purple synthetic 10w30.
It seems to me that 5W 20 is the plentiful oil grade of choice of Ford, who owns a large share of Mazda. I think it's too thin, and I also think 5W 20 will lower the life span of my engine.
Ask Australians, Europeans and Japanese what they use. I'd make a bet they'll use the oil grade that is recommended by Mazda Japan.
North American auto industry, may just want our engines to appear to die young. Perhaps, some my speculate... to ensure it doesn't outlast the American piston heads? - again I speculate.
That is of course, my humble opinion. If I am wrong with my speculations, that's fine. However, I will at least ask the other geo-sites (again) on RX8Club what oil they use.
I don't trust American corporate auto manufacturers. So I am biased.
It seems to me that 5W 20 is the plentiful oil grade of choice of Ford, who owns a large share of Mazda. I think it's too thin, and I also think 5W 20 will lower the life span of my engine.
Ask Australians, Europeans and Japanese what they use. I'd make a bet they'll use the oil grade that is recommended by Mazda Japan.
North American auto industry, may just want our engines to appear to die young. Perhaps, some my speculate... to ensure it doesn't outlast the American piston heads? - again I speculate.
That is of course, my humble opinion. If I am wrong with my speculations, that's fine. However, I will at least ask the other geo-sites (again) on RX8Club what oil they use.
I don't trust American corporate auto manufacturers. So I am biased.
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