Thanks Guys, I'll drive a purple one if the offer's there!

I'll chat with Tim, I understand that Wakefield allows for people to be "under instruction". Little sis was down a few weeks back. We may be bringing her Mini! LOL! Should gets some giggles but she has the wheels!

Macius8, no brake bleeding, basically wheels off, pads out, paint and reverse.

 

I also painted my caliper.... Rix Red 8 was there having his car done as well

Some pic taken today after a wash. EBC red stuff pads are also on.

 

nice!!~~ love the red nuts too will look mad when they spin.

 

Am I the only one missed out seeing my red nut spinning???

 

I think my nuts would go red if they were spinning too. :D :D

 

Taka did you have the rotors turned/machined when you put in the new Red Stuff Pads.

It's just really important for proper bedding especially when moving from a Carbon-metallic or carbon-kevlar pad to a ceramic based compound. (ie from stock to your new Red Stuff pads)

 

I have MazdaSpeed pad before Stu...

They are non Absestos ... so what are they.

There is instruction in the package but it is only said about driving carefully in the first 300 km.

Revolver. Do you have any more info on those?

 

No, sorry. Got mine through MACCAA.

Other than avoiding hard stops in the first 200kms or so I'm not aware of any other requirement.

MACCAA, any comments on the issue Stuart has raised?

 

I would think the Mazdaspeed pads are made of similiar Materials as the stock pads. They are just more biased towards performnce than the stocks everyday useability (ie noise & dusting versus performance & cost)

My new Ceramic compound pads came with very specific instuctions and Bedding in process. They are just very clear in the instructions in pointing out the ceramic compound needs a proper bedding in process if it is to perform at an optimal level, more so when compared to other compounds, and residue from those other compounds will effect this process greatly.

It all could just be BS to make themselves look good but in the track circles in the states these guys have a great reputation for fantastic road/race pads!

 

Might be counsel of perfection type advice Stuart.

Might also be aimed at those who race their cars and give their rotors a harder time.

Who knows? Certainly not me! :o :D

 

Well same to go with Europe racing .... EBDs lol

The box said nothing but drive carefully in the first 300 miles.

What specific instruction do you have in your pad - speak now Stu

 

Red calipers hmmmm. I did that the day after I bought my car (Oct 03) and painted them black yesterday. I guess I'm a little lazy and got tired of digging in there with a pistol brush to clean off all the brake dust. The black won't show it as much

 

Ahh, thank you for giving me the excuse I needed not to bother with this.

Had been idly tossing it up. Now I won't bother. :D

 

OK here is what my instructions say:

To ensure a uniform mating surface between the new brake pad and exhisting rotor, it is advised to resurface the rotor prior to installing and bedding-in new brake pads. Resurfacing the rotor will ensure maximum brake pad life and brake torque (i.e. stopping power). In addition, when changing from one brake compound to another, especially when switching from a "carbon-metallic", "carbon kevlar" or "ferro-carbon" brake pad to a ceramic-based brake compound it is necessary to turn the rotors so as to remove all existing friction material deposits on the rotor face. These friction material deposits (called "film transfer") will often interfere with the proper "bedding" of a new ceramic based compound brake pad increasing risk of excessive and or uneven heating of brake rotors, decreased rotor life, notable shudder and reduced brake pad performance.

Please keep in mind, when resurfacing the rotor, make sure the rotor thickness is within 20% of the factory specified rotor thickness after resurfacing, or else the rotor will be more prone to warping and cracking, and present a condition where catastrophic failure may occur.

For proper bedding of pads brake 4-6 times from 40-60mph down to 20-30mph with firm steady pedal pressure. After this excercise the brakes should be very hot. If need be, repeat these steps until you feel the brakes are hot, but not smoking. After you are satisfied the brakes are hot and bedded, allow the brakes to cool down completely by parking the car for 30 minutes.


There you go, thats all of it! As you can see they are pretty specific. Probably just playing it very safe too!

 

Hmmm... I just emailed EBC regarding those questions and see of their response. I know of there is some embedding material on the surface of the pad; so we don't need to do all that.

 

back to caliper painting.....

Rev,
Mate a good wash with the hose and i use the HP sprayer occassionally keeps them looking ok and i reckon for the small amount of easy work to paint them the effect is great.
Mike

 

I clean it with car shampoo and a wheel brush the other day. The dust is not hard to come off and use a HP spray that you buy from Autobarn... you need to use one now in NSW right?

 

Hose, what's a hose? I don't want to get flung in gaol by the water *****. :D

 

Taka,
I bought one when we were in Melb. Same rules i think in Sydney now. NO problem here in NZ, bloody stuff falls out of the sky daily! We need to install a pipe to aus! If it was a bit warmer i'd have the family out the back in a paddy, damn near as much water fell here last week as it did last time I was in Vietnam and THAT was wet!
M

 

:D :D I was going to bring some duty free to the Nats but maybe I should bring some water!:D :D

 

Why did you paint the calipers while they were still on the car??? why not just take em off and paint them on the floor or something?

 

ehhh.... no need, or it is more labour intensive that way. :o

My mechanic don't even cover the rotor with newspaper, he just uses a tough plastic bag - no paint goes through!

 

That's okay, just bring your own water when you come over then that way you won't have to queue for a shower at the local park with the rest of us! :D :D :D

 

Hrm.. plastic bag.... i dunno about you guys... but i wouldn't risk painting the rotors.. or anything else.. or wheel well... or brake lines.... it's only like 2 bolts to take out the calipers no?

 

+ the rest....
dont forget the clips holding the pads
clamp the brake lines

and after you have "played" with the calipers, do the same in reverse and you will have to bleed the brakes to get rid of the air in the brake lines.....

thats alot of work.

newspaper, plastic bags, foil, glad wraps can all be used to perform this task..... your imagination is the limit :D