RE-cats? big difference?
10-31-2007, 03:41 AM
#1
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RE-cats? big difference?
Hi, i've posted sound clip of RE-muff (super dolphin) RE-header and K&N typhoon type 2.
Well... the i had pretty shitty camera to record it...
and i still don't have any better camera to do it. so..lol?
I'm just wondering..
Although mods i've done definitely improved response of 8, i still feel little bit of lack in powers. ( FI is too expensive.)
I got about 1k~1.5k
My plan is to have sways ($600+? ) and new brake pads ( just front. not whole system..lol too expensive.. pads only 300 or less? )
People who have RE-Cat.
Is it worh? Since i already got RE header + exuast.
would cat be nice to have? as a set.
can anyone recommend me for smart mod? like smart way of spending 1k~1.5k. which mod would be best?
And having done all the mods, most of my warranty has expired.
can i still go back to mazda for regular check up?
or is it better off doing it from somewhere else?
1. RE-Cat is good?
2. Where should i get regular check up, after having done all the mods.
Thanks in advance!!
Well... the i had pretty shitty camera to record it...
and i still don't have any better camera to do it. so..lol?
I'm just wondering..
Although mods i've done definitely improved response of 8, i still feel little bit of lack in powers. ( FI is too expensive.)
I got about 1k~1.5k
My plan is to have sways ($600+? ) and new brake pads ( just front. not whole system..lol too expensive.. pads only 300 or less? )
People who have RE-Cat.
Is it worh? Since i already got RE header + exuast.
would cat be nice to have? as a set.
can anyone recommend me for smart mod? like smart way of spending 1k~1.5k. which mod would be best?
And having done all the mods, most of my warranty has expired.
can i still go back to mazda for regular check up?
or is it better off doing it from somewhere else?
1. RE-Cat is good?
2. Where should i get regular check up, after having done all the mods.
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by katana4eva; 10-31-2007 at 03:47 AM.
10-31-2007, 05:54 AM
#2
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Met the tuner from Knight Sports the other day, who said that the major improvements from the whole exhaust system is the muffler/catback. The other parts have less of an effect.
What they claim on the site ... it will be worth a percentage of it in real life since it won't be an absolute addition to the power gain coded on the website. i.e. if they claim 10kW gain, say for the sake of simplicity, for each of header, cat, and catback. You generally get 10kW + a % of 2nd 10kW + a further % of the 3rd 10kW. Realistically it will be properly about 15-20kW at most....
I think the smart 1k on the car is to have a map upload to your computer... Knight sports offers to do upgrade if you send the CPU to them............ (I cannot confirm that though). That is the best, since you have done the lightened flywheel.
Regular check up should be best with an rotary expert. Don't you have one in Five Stock?
Hi Ric
What they claim on the site ... it will be worth a percentage of it in real life since it won't be an absolute addition to the power gain coded on the website. i.e. if they claim 10kW gain, say for the sake of simplicity, for each of header, cat, and catback. You generally get 10kW + a % of 2nd 10kW + a further % of the 3rd 10kW. Realistically it will be properly about 15-20kW at most....
I think the smart 1k on the car is to have a map upload to your computer... Knight sports offers to do upgrade if you send the CPU to them............ (I cannot confirm that though). That is the best, since you have done the lightened flywheel.
Regular check up should be best with an rotary expert. Don't you have one in Five Stock?
Hi Ric
10-31-2007, 06:59 AM
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So you have enhanced the exhaust. Enhanced the intake.
Why not enhance the spark if FI is too expensive for you.
Get yourself a HKS Twin power DL-II ignition amplifier. Some upgraded leads & a grounding kit.
Noticed the difference on my one. You should see the change on yours.
However, the best gains can be found in the ECU. Contact Jason from REVS in Adelaide & get yours upgraded as REVS is the Aussie agents for Knightsports & a Knightsports modded ECU will take advantage of your in+out mods.
REgards
Why not enhance the spark if FI is too expensive for you.
Get yourself a HKS Twin power DL-II ignition amplifier. Some upgraded leads & a grounding kit.
Noticed the difference on my one. You should see the change on yours.
However, the best gains can be found in the ECU. Contact Jason from REVS in Adelaide & get yours upgraded as REVS is the Aussie agents for Knightsports & a Knightsports modded ECU will take advantage of your in+out mods.
REgards
10-31-2007, 10:02 PM
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Yea Taka-
Will be saying Hi to Ric soon :p
Remapping seems to be smarter spend than buying cat. ( with quick search $960? not sure, well around there. )
Thanks for advice.
And DMRH wat difference did you notice after changing sparks?
Will be saying Hi to Ric soon :p
Remapping seems to be smarter spend than buying cat. ( with quick search $960? not sure, well around there. )
Thanks for advice.
And DMRH wat difference did you notice after changing sparks?
Last edited by katana4eva; 10-31-2007 at 10:17 PM.
10-31-2007, 11:39 PM
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I recommend a high flow cat.I really noticed the differance with a high flow cat. I got mine from smb and the dyno results are on the site. Having said that I too am planning on getting Ric Shaw to re-map car soon which I think is equally good value..
11-01-2007, 12:18 AM
#6
New Member
I reserve my caution of remapping the ECU with a piggyback system. I have done with a simple Unichip I know. There is always an initial gain, but after a while the ECU learn itself and will correct itself (a lot of people believe that). So much so now HKS has the new iS version of their piggyback to solve this problem.
Most Rotary tuner in Japan use map upload. In Australia, ECUtek does that to local EVOs and STis. For us, you have to go to KnightSports who has a distributer in SA.
Most Rotary tuner in Japan use map upload. In Australia, ECUtek does that to local EVOs and STis. For us, you have to go to KnightSports who has a distributer in SA.
11-01-2007, 04:06 AM
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take off the muffler
get a long metal pole and shove it up your midpipe
bash out the ceramic honeycomb (dont breathe the dust in!)
give it a good rev to get all the pieces out
volia! highflow cat!
(you definately WONT pass an emissions test!)
get a long metal pole and shove it up your midpipe
bash out the ceramic honeycomb (dont breathe the dust in!)
give it a good rev to get all the pieces out
volia! highflow cat!
(you definately WONT pass an emissions test!)
11-01-2007, 04:18 AM
#9
EDIT: Here, read through this thread: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=High+Flow
EDIT 2: And here's a quote from StealthTL in the thread.
I solved this problem for myself two years ago.
While getting my car fitted for a wide-band O2 sensor, I noticed that the secondary sensor sits in a space between blocks of catalyst. A little probing with a dental mirror showed that the cat is made of a front "bed" about three inches deep, then the space, then a rear bed about nine inches deep.
The principle is that the cat works from front to back, as the coating wears out, the reaction takes place deeper inside, until the sensor sees no difference in the gas between the first and second readings, at which time it lights the CEL for "failed cat". The only reason to have the second bed is so the car will still be OK to drive, even if you ignore the light for years. When only the first quarter of the cat is used up, the sensor will be on.
So my answer was to remove the second catalyst bed, cutting 3/4 of the material out, while maintaining full functionality, 100% legality, pass any emissions check - including a visual. Even a dealer/mechanic could not detect any problem, unless he had x-ray eyes!
Car sounds better, runs better, throws 'large' flames when prompted, and has been working like that since October 2004.
The actual removal was not as easy as it sounds - the best way would be to attack the material from its outlet instead of inlet, but that is thru the resonator and around two good bends. That way proved impossible. I succeeded by chipping away thru the sensor hole. That is also much harder than it sounds, took three days - the hole is roughly the same size as a sparkplug hole!
If I were to do it again, I would cut the assembly in two at the back of the cat body, allowing easy removal, then get my friendly stainless steel welder buddy to put it back together.
S
While getting my car fitted for a wide-band O2 sensor, I noticed that the secondary sensor sits in a space between blocks of catalyst. A little probing with a dental mirror showed that the cat is made of a front "bed" about three inches deep, then the space, then a rear bed about nine inches deep.
The principle is that the cat works from front to back, as the coating wears out, the reaction takes place deeper inside, until the sensor sees no difference in the gas between the first and second readings, at which time it lights the CEL for "failed cat". The only reason to have the second bed is so the car will still be OK to drive, even if you ignore the light for years. When only the first quarter of the cat is used up, the sensor will be on.
So my answer was to remove the second catalyst bed, cutting 3/4 of the material out, while maintaining full functionality, 100% legality, pass any emissions check - including a visual. Even a dealer/mechanic could not detect any problem, unless he had x-ray eyes!
Car sounds better, runs better, throws 'large' flames when prompted, and has been working like that since October 2004.
The actual removal was not as easy as it sounds - the best way would be to attack the material from its outlet instead of inlet, but that is thru the resonator and around two good bends. That way proved impossible. I succeeded by chipping away thru the sensor hole. That is also much harder than it sounds, took three days - the hole is roughly the same size as a sparkplug hole!
If I were to do it again, I would cut the assembly in two at the back of the cat body, allowing easy removal, then get my friendly stainless steel welder buddy to put it back together.
S
Last edited by Spinning Sushi; 11-01-2007 at 04:30 AM.
11-03-2007, 09:06 AM
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Hi, with little bit of search with hks ignition amplifier.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...YPE+DLI+II+KIT
Richardpaul says the gain from NA rx8 is almost none. ( well very little )
$5~600 that is. even though i got few other mods, it seems bit of wasting money for such little gain.
perhaps uploading map seems better choice. maybe highflow cat.. - but still remapping ecu sounds better.
Do i have to contact via e-mail info@revs-online.com ?? and check for availability?
Thanks
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...YPE+DLI+II+KIT
Richardpaul says the gain from NA rx8 is almost none. ( well very little )
$5~600 that is. even though i got few other mods, it seems bit of wasting money for such little gain.
perhaps uploading map seems better choice. maybe highflow cat.. - but still remapping ecu sounds better.
Do i have to contact via e-mail info@revs-online.com ?? and check for availability?
Thanks
Last edited by katana4eva; 11-03-2007 at 09:30 AM.
11-03-2007, 08:31 PM
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Ah.
He is coming back this year?? or perhaps early next year.
I sent e-mail to info@revs-online.com
just waiting for reply. I can wait 2-3 months, i'm not in rush :p
because i'm going overseas as well. Thank you always Takahashi.
He is coming back this year?? or perhaps early next year.
I sent e-mail to info@revs-online.com
just waiting for reply. I can wait 2-3 months, i'm not in rush :p
because i'm going overseas as well. Thank you always Takahashi.
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